excessive ph on foliar spray or hot nutes (always wet) not enough air flow my .02$

Ph is 6.0 to 6.5. What do you mean hot nutes? As for air flow I have two wall fans one intake fan, two exhaust fans. Temp 78 to 83.

In a 5x10 room 2 x 1000watt lights

I'd start by checking the EC and ph of the runoff water in comparison to what your putting in, that may tell you theres too many salts in the root zone causing lock out. In my experience not flushing enough causes weird damage similar to a nutrient deficiency.

I feed them fox farm products once every other Sunday straight r o water rest of the week

I figured that's flushing enough straight r o water for two weeks.

i had leaves like this b4 , could be different problem tho........
i would spray my plant daily extensively to push growth when plant is thriving.....as a result solution will lye on top of tub and leaves were in the solution constantly thus causing burn and decay on the leaves only in solution only

is it bottom leaves only ??


hope this helps with your problem

I use soil an I spray with straight water every morning.

Its spotting bottom an top fan leaves

maybe this will help

what kind of soil?

Hoodstock said:

I feed them fox farm products once every other Sunday straight r o water rest of the week

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Hey Hood, I'm afraid I must disagree (respectfully) with my constituents thusfar. I believe you are showing a P def. Are you seeing any dark red or purple coloring on your stems and petioles? My bet is that you're showing allot of purple! Here's a pic I found thru Google Search, showing a classic P def.



Yours hasn't progressed quite to this stage yet, but at that feed level..IMO you'll be there before long! If you are feeding every other week only...I think this is why you're deficient. I run my Fox Farm nutes with a feed every other watering. I let the plants tell me when it's time for that to happen by drying out really good between waterings. (The easiest way to make sure you're not watering too early or late, is to fill an identical pot/container with DRY soil as a comparison. When the pot with your plant is the same weight as the pot full of dry soil...it's time to water. If it feels the least bit heavier, wait and let her dry out a bit more. Before long, you won't even need the reference pot and can do it by feel. Forget about the plant. It's weight is negligible at this point and you don't need to allow for it. In Flower...yes!

I don't know how old/large your plants are, but a typical veg feed for me would be:

2 to 2-1/2 tsp. FF Grow Big
1 Tablespoon FF Big Bloom
20 drops cal/mag

Depending on where in veg I was (how long until I planned to flip) I might also be adding:
1 tsp Blackstrap Molassis
1 small scoop FF Open Sesame (The scoop they give you inside the jar only...and MAKE CERTAIN you use the smaller of the two scoops! The powders can fry your shit fast if you overdo them)! I'm giving mine this level of feed every other watering. I just alternate feed/water/feed/water. Then I let the plants tell me if they need more. Some strains would be getting 3 tsp GB...it all depends on their needs. I pH to 6.4-6.5 only. Also...I'm in FF Ocean Forrest Soil with added Perlite to help it dry faster. When your plants are larger and drinking well, you should be feeding them once or twice a week at the above level. I'd also advise adding a Cal/Mag supplement to the FF product line. FF is not high in either element and I get defs without it.

Hope this is helpful. bro. If you've been feeding a weaker mix every other week, I'd work them up to this level with 1 or two feeds. Actually, with yours I'd probably just hit them with 2 tsp GB, and 1 TBSP Big Bloom asap. They are starving and that level won't burn them!

Best of luck!

Max :wacky:

ya hoodstock i would have to say cal-mag deficiancy leading to phosphorous lockout ease up on your folier spraying to twice a week add cal mag every watering at 5 mils a gallon and add some type of carbs such as non sulphered molasses - carboload ect at 5 mil a gallon it can help the plant recover because it wont have to convert sugars and can concentrate on recovery :D just my 2 cents

I'm using organic ocean Forrest no additives. Thanks guys you've been a great deal of help I really appreciate it guys thanks

Thanks for posting the deficiencies chart..... I've been looking for something like that.

I just noticed there was an error in my feed strength above, but I can't figure out how to edit it. The amount of Big Bloom I would normally use in veg is 2 TBSP, and not one as I listed previously. I do drop back to 1 TBSP for flowering tho.

Srry!

Max :wacky:

I think I'm landing with Max on this Dx--P-. Typically expressed as very dark green leaves without the curling or clawing associated with N+, PURPLE PETIOLES that's not strain-related, and the necrosis (something I've never seen in real life). I have another, updated and improved visual Dx chart whose only failing is that Ca has been placed with mobile nutrients--Ca is IMMOBILE (or rather, relatively immobile). I use it in conjunction with a flow chart that uses location of affected plant parts as part of the Dx 'experience.'

Seamaiden iv seen that post before but could never find it- thank you!

Seamaiden said:

I think I'm landing with Max on this Dx--P-. Typically expressed as very dark green leaves without the curling or clawing associated with N+, PURPLE PETIOLES that's not strain-related, and the necrosis (something I've never seen in real life). I have another, updated and improved visual Dx chart whose only failing is that Ca has been placed with mobile nutrients--Ca is IMMOBILE (or rather, relatively immobile). I use it in conjunction with a flow chart that uses location of affected plant parts as part of the Dx 'experience.'
View attachment 321613

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saved both those for my records :)