A ppm of 300 is all that a plant that size needs.
He's growing in DWC there is no run off to measure.
Ppms are at 400 to 470 for my plants this size. rdwc seldom do i get above 600 at the end. Feeding GH 3 partView attachment 1234630
I have moved the lights up yesterday and they seem to be better, I'm also controlling the humidity with the room's AC drying function. Will lower the air intake for a few days.Yes but how close are they? 80w light at that age I’m gonna say should be min 2ft. and maybe 3ft away and I’d drop the light cycle to 18/6.
they don’t need direct airflow at this stage as they are not near dense enough.
if it’s not either of those then I’d start scoping for mites.
But I’m over 99% confident it’s light or wind or combination of with low humidity and it’s not able to take up water fast enough for the rate of photosynthesis (driving force of transpiration) that light is pushing out with ANY direct airflow making the issue worse.
IMO raise that light to 3 ft. Shut the fan off completely until it gets some legs and in a matter of days it will look beautiful. It simply doesn’t have the root system for the demand being put forth on water uptake. Environment will be a big factor also and why VPD is also key here to the plants ability for light tolerance
I do have room for a small humidifier, however I live in a very humid city and we are entering autumn so there are lots of humidity and temperature swings.You want high humidity when it's in vegetative phase 60 even 70 percent as long as your plant isn't susceptible to mold or fungus then you want it lowered down when it goes into flower phase more like 40 percent. Do you have room for a humidifier humidity is very important for plants look at your rain forest high humidity I also have a couple large glasses filled with water in there and humidity is at 45 % I'm growing Bruce banner auto and northern lights auto Bruce banner is a beast its growing like a "WEED"!!! IM at 7 weeks as of today don't know how much I'm going to get from. them but I'm betting it's gonna be a boatload of weed if there is a such thing please excuse me for rambling on I've been smoking my gorilla glue.
This is my setup, I have a height of 1,2 meters.
In the left I have the PC 12v fan, which I can flip to both get air in or out of the tent (it leads to the outside). Then I have the Arduino with humidity and temperature sensors keeping track of everything, but that does not contribute to much heat.
I have lifted the lights a bit and they seem to be happier this way.
View attachment 1234767
There ya go now fill the net pots to the top with hydroton and remove the cardboard and your golden. Otherwise your going to get stem rot and lose them. I bet you will see little white bump on the stem below the cardboard height… this are roots forming because of the high humidity being trapped. Add to that wet cardboard is a good source for mild and yeah it’s just bad news
Okay, first thing I'm gonna do is remove that cardboard. Is there anything else besides hydroton that I can use? I feel like there still is some light passing through.There ya go now fill the net pots to the top with hydroton and remove the cardboard and your golden. Otherwise your going to get stem rot and lose them. I bet you will see little white bump on the stem below the cardboard height… this are roots forming because of the high humidity being trapped. Add to that wet cardboard is a good source for mild and yeah it’s just bad news
As long as the light is not getting through your fine. Looks like you have enough in thereOkay, first thing I'm gonna do is remove that cardboard. Is there anything else besides hydroton that I can use? I feel like there still is some light passing through.
I'm also a bit worried about one of my plants roots, it is not as white as the other one, I see them more yellowish.
Should I be worried?
As I said before, I'm not from the USA so I don't have access to hydroguard.
I'm using a product that says it's made with "anolytes" that help prevent root rot and similars.
View attachment 1234797
So you say that my root looks fine??As long as the light is not getting through your fine. Looks like you have enough in there
Yea they look fine for now. A healthy system will smell like dirt. Pungent or ammonia type smell is decaying bacteria and root tissue and that’s not good.So you say that my root looks fine??
Its not as white as the other one, and also I now smell some plant odors I don't smell in the other one
From what I have found about the product I am using, it is sterile, however, I dont disinfect everything that touches the water.Yea they look fine for now. A healthy system will smell like dirt. Pungent or ammonia type smell is decaying bacteria and root tissue and that’s not good.
mare you running live or sterile?
So both sterile or live systems work when each is done correctly but you cannot do a combination of the 2.From what I have found about the product I am using, it is sterile, however, I dont disinfect everything that touches the water.
I have found a product called king crab. I think it's from the USA.
This is it's formulation.
Would you recommend switching to a live sistem?View attachment 1234922
Thanks for the information.So both sterile or live systems work when each is done correctly but you cannot do a combination of the 2.
I can’t tell you which will work best for you but I can explain the principles behind them to help you decide.
a sterile system uses products like pool shock or hydrogen peroxide at a certain dosage that almost wipes out bacteria, fungi and moles. It’s dosed usually every 3 days and temp plays a role in how frequently it needs done. The principal is to knock back harmful and along with it beneficial microbes before they reach a population that may be harmful to the plants. They break down and dissipate quickly due to the fact the chemical reaction destroys the oxidative chemicals when they react with living or organic matter.
a live system generally inoculates the system with a varying array of bacterial and fungal species that are known to be beneficial and highly competitive. These bacteria and fungi produce enzymes and metabolites that process nutrients and are harmful to competing microbes. (Eg many antibacterial compounds we use such as penicillin are derived from metabolites produced by fungus, this specific metabolite kills many species of bacteria) Essentially they are inoculated so they take hold and make a large army of beneficial microbes so when a small army of harmful ones come they will be wiped out before being able to take hold. If maintained well they do not need to be added in high frequency like is done in a sterile system.
on top of this many provide enzymes and metabolites that can have an impact on not only nutrient availability but also compounds that benefit growth, health and can impact quality and yield to a varying degree.
The benefit to sterile is easy to validate and maintain but also more time consuming and slightly more expensive with things able to go wrong fast if not maintained.
the benefit to live is its very minimal maintenance and cheaper providing more benefit to the plants. But parameters and mindfulness or need to be kept up n check when dealing with a living system since if you gravely harm or destroy them you may not know until you see issues.
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens is one or the absolute must have species in a live hydro system and it alone is adequate
Personally the byproducts of the oxidative reaction are toxic as all oxidative chemicals create when used to maintain sterile systems. In our drinking water chlorine and more often now chloramine are used and if you look up your water report you can see they specifically measure for these toxic byproducts for our safety. Imo hydrogen peroxide is one of if not the least toxic of the highly effective options. Don’t let that language scare you away from sterile the damage is in the dose and if done right there is nothing to be concerned about but myself I would avoid bleach but that’s not to say it won’t work.Thanks for the information.
I have been reading about sterile and live sistems for a few hours now, I still have to decide which sistema should I use, since I don't have access to hydroguard.
I have found a product called great white and another one called orca premium.
These are the specs.
Orca® Liquid Mycorrhizae - with Beneficial Bacteria
Orca is a liquid mycorrhizae product concentrated with a diverse mix of mycorrhizae & beneficial bacteria is designed to be watered in or run through hydroponic or irrigation systems. Buy now!plantrevolution.com Great White® Premium Mycorrhizae
Great White is a cutting-edge formula containing a highly concentrated and diverse blend of beneficial microbes. The endo and ecto mycorrhiza , beneficial bacteria and Trichoderma build a microbial system in and on plant roots which enhance water and nutrient uptake. Great White can be used...www.arbico-organics.com
I have read in some forums that some people have found that bleach works great for sterile sistems, do you know anything about it?
Thank you
I don't have access to defguard, the only things I'm being able to find with bacillus amyloliquefaciens or similar are great white, orca, and king crab.Personally the byproducts of the oxidative reaction are toxic as all oxidative chemicals create when used to maintain sterile systems. In our drinking water chlorine and more often now chloramine are used and if you look up your water report you can see they specifically measure for these toxic byproducts for our safety. Imo hydrogen peroxide is one of if not the least toxic of the highly effective options. Don’t let that language scare you away from sterile the damage is in the dose and if done right there is nothing to be concerned about but myself I would avoid bleach but that’s not to say it won’t work.
can you find defgaurd? Better bang for buck than hydrogaurd. Great white and orca have from my understanding served many well although I have heard of rumours that the population numbers have tests far below the label claims in some instances.
Stick with orca or great white then. If I remember right one is more well suited to hydro?I don't have access to defguard, the only things I'm being able to find with bacillus amyloliquefaciens or similar are great white, orca, and king crab.
I have found something called bacillus subtillis that is sold in some growshops, but I don't know if it will work, it said it's for root stimulation and growth
Thanks, is it possible to switch from a sterile sistem to a live one? Should I wash the roots with plain water? Or pH corrected water?Stick with orca or great white then. If I remember right one is more well suited to hydro?
you bet. You just have to do water changes until any chemicals are gone. This is Chlorine, Chloramine, or anything you have added.Thanks, is it possible to switch from a sterile sistem to a live one? Should I wash the roots with plain water? Or pH corrected water?
Or simply put it straight in the solution
Or just add 1 gram per 100 gal of ascorbic acid (vitamin C ) it will neutralize both chlorine and chloramineyou bet. You just have to do water changes until any chemicals are gone. This is Chlorine, Chloramine, or anything you have added.
You will want to find a way to let the tap water sit for a while before using it, or in a pinch you can treat with sodium thiosulphate available at pet stores.
Nice. You taught me something new today. You need to set up a virtual tip jar.Or just add 1 gram per 100 gal of ascorbic acid (vitamin C ) it will neutralize both chlorine and chloramine
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