Help with leaf color? Nitrogen deficient?

Bdubs · Nov 5, 2023

I never experimented with my feed and add one thing and then not the next. Stay consistent my friend. If you use 1ml cal mag, keep using it every time. The plant needs to recognize what it is getting and is available all the time. I prefer to not mess with my plants food and give it the same thing every time.
The only time I Adjust nutrients is when phase change. The only time I remove nutrients is during ripen. I remove Rapid Start mid flower phase.

Hammer down her food and be consistent.

Bdubs · Nov 5, 2023

If you just now started using nutrients on her, start light or she will get mad. I always start my nutrients after the very first single leafs fade out yellow from the very beginning. This way I can vamp up PPM. But, you must start low or we may see you having more problems. I’d suggest you target a PPM range if you don’t have a feed chart. Follow your PPM target and every week work to the end PPM target that you wish to push all flower.
You should be doing this in Three phases in veg. Not slightly every time; 400 week1, 600week2, 900 week3 and then from there on, keep 900ppm no matter what you adjust as amounts of each nutrient, when switching to early/mid/late flower, keep that 900 target even when flip flopping your nitrogen and bloom. If your PPM run off jumps up, reduce the PPM a bit. If you want to get technical, you will want to have a 50-100 ppm drop from early to mid flower phase.

Bdubs · Nov 5, 2023

Soil is a buffer, hydro requires precision. Don’t over think it. Feed charts are your friend. As long as you are supplying all nutrients she needs in your nutrient line up, target PPM and let her have time to go to work on your changes before you make changes again. So be sure what you change is what you think is right and keep that for 3 days minimum before you even think of making another change. The fact you are using coco is leaning on precision feeding. Good luck and keep it simple on you and her.

Bdubs · Nov 5, 2023

Loss of darker green? Needs more nitrogen, if you’re giving her good amounts of nitrogen, pull your Ph down to 5.5-6 in veg. Glossy dark green leafs, aqua blue hue Nitrogen toxicity. I’d rather start with a deficiency than a toxicity.

All in all, I see water stress.

Porky1982 · Nov 5, 2023

They are hungry!

Jslo313 · Nov 5, 2023

Imzzaudae said:
When you flip them they will grow into the lights big time.

If you google Cannabis ppm. It comes up with some ridiculous number like that.700 and 1400 ppm. My question was, of what? And I could never seem to get a proper answer.This is why I went looking for the information in this video, And it took me a very long time digging threw the chaff to find.
But in the end it's worth the time invested.

Is cannabis in veg looking for 250?
The answer is a large plant on a full sun day mid summer sure. A large plant under a 1000w light, it is entirely possible. But!
The amount of water uptake buy a plant is directly proportional to the amount of light it is receiving at any given time!

Lets say a plant has been watered well with a solution containing 250ppm of Nitrogen. The plant uptakes the water and the 250ppm nitrogen with the water. It cannot take 100ppm N if the sun is not shining today. It may only take up 1/2 the water but it gets the nutrients at what ever level are in the ground / solution.

So today you give the plant 4 liters of 250ppm solution. The sun is out and the plant takes up all the water. Great.
Tomorrow. You give the plant 250ppm N and the sun only shines 1/2 the time. The plant takes up 1/2 the water and nutrients.
The next day you feed again. You end up with a buildup of nitrogen /salts in the potting medium.

This is what causes burned tips. An exes of nutrients in the medium. If you watch the second video he shows you how to
use an EC meter to look at the percentage of solids in your solution before you put it in the top. Then capture the runoff
and use the EC meter to calculate the difference between what you put in the top and what ran out the bottom.
Then you can adjust your input ppm so that your never in a state of more coming out the bottom than going in the top.

Now it's time to lay another video on you. About 99% of the math goes right over my head. But you will understand enough
to get your sorted. His medium recipe is great. I use it indoors, but you will find 50% peat 25% Perlite and 25% Vermiculite works very well
and it helps to keep the cost down. Add the 40 Grams of Lime and 10 Grams of Gypsum pr gallon!

You water this like it's hydroponic. Every watering 100ppm (N) and you water until 10% that acts as a flush that keeps any extra nutrients from building up and use the runoff and measure the ins and outs.
It's a bit of a pain to graff it but it works!

I’ve actually seen a fair bit of this guys stuff. Boring as all get up but ya pick up some of it. My problem with the good doc is that I don’t have enough practice to really understand half of what he’s sayin…. In practice. Lol.

Gonna watch the second video tonight before I ask anymore ppm/runoff questions! Thanks!

Jslo313 · Nov 5, 2023

ridemytrich said:
Flush...raise light 3"...possibly repot but probably won't be necessary if you can keep the soil a tiny bit warmer...this is a combination of high pH. Most likely suffocated roots as well...due to insufficient aeration, these things working together causes an inability to break down calcium and magnesium...thus other important nutrients (your n,p and ok) become much harder to uptake by the plant. Good luck soldier

How do I tell/how can you tell suffocated roots? Just curious for my own future knowledge!

I’m assuming (maybe incorrectly) that any deficiencies are because I have let it run on the soil in the pot for sixty days. I’ve intentionally not added any nutes until my original post, for my own testing purposes. Next run I’ll be adding them somewhat sooner. My first two runs I couldn’t tell if my feeding was helping or hurting.

Jslo313 · Nov 5, 2023

Bdubs said:
Loss of darker green? Needs more nitrogen, if you’re giving her good amounts of nitrogen, pull your Ph down to 5.5-6 in veg. Glossy dark green leafs, aqua blue hue Nitrogen toxicity. I’d rather start with a deficiency than a toxicity.

All in all, I see water stress.

Water stress? As in not enough ya think? I’m every three or four days. Common wisdom tells me NOT to overwater so I’ve been going by feel. Knuckle deep in the soil, water if it’s dry, let go one more day if it’s moist. Is this a poor way to do this? And what signs am I looking for? I didn’t think they looked too droopy or too dry? Might be my untrained eye.

Jslo313 · Nov 5, 2023

Todays pics. They might look a little better? I’ll be checking runnoff ppms from here on and trying to adjust that closer to 250. I’m kinda worried it’s gonna be like 1200 though and I’m gonna be looking at giving plain RO water to deficient plants just trying to get ppms in line. I could be overthinking it though.

I included the problemlematic leaves and overall shots. If this means things to y’all, lemme know! The more I know…

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. I’ll keep ya posted.

Comnconnection · Nov 5, 2023

Comnconnection said:
Without knowing all the details, I would say your plants just need a good feed with all the micros and macros. Don't worry about which ones, the liquid nutrients are balanced and have them all. Plants are deficient from not getting enough food and water. In the fox farm line big bloom is going to be your best friend. Also your basically in a coco mix at this point so I would treat it more like one. using R/O water only - Mix up 4-5ml/gal cal-mag, 5ml/gal grow big, and 15ml/gal big bloom - pH to 6.2, EC should be like 1.2-1.3 and give them each 1-2 gallons, just soak them with a bunch of runoff, they need the food and pH set. If EC comes in low, add a little more grow big to bring it up. Honestly though, for coco/soil grow id use botanicare pure blend pro grow. Then alternate between that feed and just plain r/o water with 4ml cal-mag and some great white at like a 6.5 pH. When you hit bloom, just switch the grow big to tiger bloom and each week raise your EC with tiger bloom by .1 until you hit 1.8 at week 5, then back down .2 each week so week 7 is at 1.4 then flush. Back off on nutrient strength if your getting dark green leaves, burnt tips, and/or crusty leaves. Pull the calmag out by week 7. Get10-20% runoff each watering and don't let the pots dry out. I'd be watering every day or every other day. There are definitely some other nutrient additives out there like liquid karma, silica, and vitamino that will help you out too.

After seeing most recent pictures and looking again at the older ones, I think I was wrong about the plants needing food. I mean they do need food, but I think it might be from a lockout from high EC in medium. You have those darker green leaves with the burnt tips and the brown necrotic blotching and yellowing. Id try flushing the medium with 4-5ml calmag at a pH of 6.0 until the runoff comes out around 1.0 EC, let the plants chill for a couple days then resume what I was saying above . Also next run, id choose either coco or soil on their own instead of the mix.

Gmix · Nov 5, 2023

I must admit I looked at the first pic and skimmed the comments.

Anyways with a calcium deficiency you can expect it to get worse before it gets better and the effected leaves to die of depending of how effected they are.

As long as you don’t rush to flower you have time to negate any stress she will of suffered.

It will pull back eventually so it’s not all bad news

GNick55 · Nov 5, 2023

thanks nick

Help with leaf color? Nitrogen deficient?

Help with leaf color? Nitrogen deficient?

Bdubs

Bdubs

Bdubs

Bdubs

Porky1982

Jslo313

Jslo313

Jslo313

Jslo313

Attachments

Comnconnection

Gmix

GNick55

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency