The bright green growing tips look like a mag deficiency, but the rest of the plant doesn't look right for a mag def though, so wait for someone more expert to help.

what kind of soil? how old? is it composted? what's the pH buffered to?

have you tried adding just a tiny little bit of veg. fertilizer?

IDK - the more i look at them i'm not feeling the nitrogen deficiency. because the rest of the plant looks like it's getting plenty.

are these always in the same type of dirt? is this before or after a transplant?

what kind of water are you using again?

how far away from the lights are they? what kind of light are you using?

I doubt you would be having any problems if you were to use a reverse osmosis filter.

It looks like Nitrogen def. but it's not....

I'm going out on a limb and say this looks like a sulfur deficiency.

Sulfur def's happen when the PH is too high or there is too much calcium present and available so it may be a water issue too.

mushroom compost is a good source of sulfur.

Let's get another opinion from an expert though.....

Could be from overwatering. If thats not the case, how is your soil ph? May be a slight nitrogen lock up due to ph imbalance.

ok guys thanks for the questions, lemmie elaborate a little bit..

My PH is more on the 6.5 end of the scale, should it be lower? And my soil is healthy soil, FF Happy Frog and Light Warrior.

Sulphur def sounds the most possible, I have epsom salt, should i use it? Ive always used veg fert. PBP grow and calmag,

I was thinking maybe this is just a sign of PH a tad too high, maybe they are testy ladies? Because Ive always been told between 6-7 is good PH so i never really paid too much attn to anything inbetween.


I used to use RO water, but recently lost access, but i have pretty good tap water, its at 190ppms...so i have to make due.

Thanks for all the replys guys, much appreciated...

Your water sounds fine. Spotting is pretty common with the pure blend pro. Let me ask , does it happen when you transition to a flower fert. I had spotting gallore until I started using half pure b veg with half pure b flower for the first 2 weeks of flowering.

If you're using tap water you shouldn't need any cal-mag. Like I said.....

I doubt you would be having any problems if you were to use a reverse osmosis filter.

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.... so the next logical step in my mind would be to cut out the cal-mag. 190 ppms is really hard bro. All the calcium and carbonates in the water, plus what's in the PBP are wrecking your ladies. Just go with the bare minimum when you can.

ok cool, i meant to make a correction, my tap is 100ppm not 190ppm....

Been thanks for the advice...thats what ive been doing, building ontop on 100ppms tap minus the calmag now, i hope to see the correction.

So because i was giving too much its a lockout rather than a defeciency, because if it was a def. id need to UP the cal mag right?

lockout for sure

Calcium (Ca)
Action Mode
Absorbed as Ca++; moderately leachable; limited mobility in plant; essential for growth of shoot and root tips; reduces the toxicity of aluminum and manganese
Deficiency
Inhibition of bud growth; roots can turn black and rot; young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green; leaf tips may stick together; cupping of maturing leaves; blossom end rot of many fruits, pits on root vegetables; stem structure is weak; premature shedding of fruit and buds
Excess
Interferes with Mg absorption; high Ca usually causes high pH which then precipitates many of the micronutrient so they become unavailable to the plant
Comments
Ca is rarely deficient if the correct pH is maintained; too much or too little water, can affect Ca relationships within the plant causing deficiency in the location where Ca was needed at the time of stress

Sulfur (S)
Action Mode
Absorbed as SO4-; leachable; not mobile; contributes to odor and taste of some vegetables
Deficiency
Rarely deficient; general yellowing of the young leaves then the entire plant; veins lighter in color than adjoining interveinal area; roots and stems are small, hard and woody
Excess
Sulfur excess is usually in the form of air pollution
Comments
Sulfur excess is difficult to control but rarely a problem.


MICRONUTRIENT
Iron (Fe)
Mode of Action
Absorbed as Fe++, Fe+++; accumulates in the oldest leaves and is relative immobile in the phloem; necessary for the maintenance of chlorophyll
Deficiency
Interveinal chlorosis primarily on young tissue, which may become white; Fe deficiency may occur even if Fe is in the soil when: soil high in Ca, poorly drained soil, soil high in Mn, high pH, high P, soil high in heavy metals (Cu, Zn), oxygen deficient soils or when nematodes attack the roots; Fe should be added in the chelate form; the type of chelate needed depends upon the soil pH; foliar fertilization will temporarily correct the deficiency; may be deficient in centipedegrass where pH and P are high
Excess /Comments
Rare except on flooded soils

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Just curious, are these plants closer to the lights? almost resembles early stages of light bleaching...

IMHO... it matters not which deficiency you're seeing... what matters is what's causing the appearance of nutrient lockout. And since deficiencies are VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY RARELY ever due to an actual lack of feeding... it stands to reason that you never again need to worry yourself about which deficiency you are seeing.

I would consider stopping the use of the RO water system. I recently decided to stop using the RO system, and the result was that my plants were easier to keep happy. My feeling is that the RO water is just not "real" enough to the plants. Too clean, or something. Pot plants don't expect chemically pure water, it usually goes through soil, stone and rock before reaching the roots. Maybe it's calcium... but I suspect these plants are looking for a lot more trace element than RO water provides.

I also don't use dehumidifier water any more. As it turns out, dehumidifier water is loaded with airborne bacterium and fungal spores. It also seems to be too clean, like RO water.

These plants don't look too bad at this stage. Make changes slowly, one at a time to make sure you don't over-adjust anything and go in the wrong direction. If you make 10 changes at once, and something goes wrong... you'll have to guess which change was the bad change. Conversely... if things go very well after making 10 changes to your garden, you'll have to guess which of the 10 changes was the one that worked. So... one change at a time for your own good.

Keep the microherd happy. Don't let temps get too hot, don't let the medium get dry, don't let it stay wet for too long, and only feed when the plant asks for it. It takes very little food to keep these plants fed and productive, so try not to consider that it's a simple matter of feeding more. The signs on your plants are NOT signs of a lack of feeding.