Horto
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For the xpg3 you should be looking at the 50°C data
when wiring for 1050mA output off a 2100mA driver, wire a series string first then put two of those in parallel
Use direct to copper MCPCBs like sinkpad
For the xpg3 you should be looking at the 50°C data
you can use cheap flat aluminum and a fan to cool them.plus it takes away all the soldering issues.
Put a thin layer of solder paste on the MCPB
I really cant help on those smaller diodes.
Hi...i am a new user here. As per my knowledge you should use direct to copper MCPCBs like sinkpad or noctigon. This should up the efficiency some as there is no dielectric layer between the chips heat pad and MCPCB and also if one string fails and the other one gets full 2100mA.
For the xpg3 you should be looking at the 50°C data, so this should work and also the driver should be running at the highest efficiency considering your mains (110V will be slightly less efficient than 240V). Also when wiring for 1050mA output off a 2100mA driver, wire a series string first then put two of those in parallel, should be well balanced this way even if there are some higher or lower Vf chips in those strings.
Use direct to copper MCPCBs like sinkpad or noctigon. This should up the efficiency some as there is no dielectric layer between the chips heat pad and MCPCB and also if one string fails and the other one gets full 2100mA, those chips won't mind much (I've got an xpg2 running at 2500mA in a wee little flashlight). And please don't use self adhesive thermal tape. Either thermal glue of high quality or even better thermal compound and screw those bitches to the heatsink.
If you're looking to use red xpes keep the lover forward voltage and lover drive current in mind. I wouldn't push them past 350mA.
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