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boyoboy
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I don't do soil, only coco. But word to the wise man: dark green doesn't mean healthy, it means you have an abundance of nitrogen in your leaves. I'm guessing they are kind of leathery feeling, rather than dainty and paper-like. I understand times are hard for you, but I think the second worst mistake you made behind using miracle gro is cheaping out on the PH Meter. This is probably the single most important piece of kit you could need. Mine cost £40 (about $50...?) and I see it like buying snap - on tools. You only need to buy them once. I had the creaky crappy yellow coloured meters and hated them. Hope you manage to work it out pal
That a good idea 2, me I would throw it in the trash by now the damage is done and his plant is going 2 fall apart like a Chinese motorcycle, it happend 2 me and I should have known better, I do use miracle grow on my houseplants just add water, I ran a tiny bit short on fox farm so stupidly added not even a lot of that shit had a nice girl going till I fed it, it went in the trash, allso when u do use miracle grow u must dust with De earth there mix usaly are full of those little gnats, black flys you know what I mean, even fox farms has those fly in there mix but know where as bad as miracle grow the assholese, de earth is organic and will add a little calcium to your mix, i feel bad 4 him but i have been growing many years and from time to time f up. Sincerely. SNOLEPERDI don't believe you are going to successfully flush a time release fertilizer.
I'd foliar with calcium chloride to arrest what looks like a calcium deficiency.
Top dress with earth worm castings.
Catch some rain water.
Ride'er out.
Good luck.
just caught this,maybe i can help,
first you cannot no matter what anyone says ,FLUSH SOIL period,all you do with that attempt is make mud,and the clay count in the soil just bury all your life in it,dont have a clue who ever came up with that shit,like saying vacum your carpet till the dirt comes out and in true life to do that you have to pull it up and vacum the sand out,lol anyway never do that,the problem you have is ph out of control due to the time realease and if you add any other nutrients just add to problem.
get some humic and fulvic acid and feed the soil ,it will clean up your ph,fulvic helps with the uptake,and humic is the adjuster,its under ever leaf and log you see ,,give it that and next time you need to feed or light pots,give it water and fulvic acid,again it increase the uptake,next feeding humic and fulvic,by then you shoulod have leveled off your ph.
WATER AND PENS go into your water source,check your ppm and ec,couple times threw out the day,in that day you will know what your adverage is,,keep this number in mind,,so when you do get around to mixing nutrients,check your ec hold them ec numbers ,you can get them from the hanna chart,dont add your ph down or up until you have mixed you nutes,then feed .
im not into the clinton foundations and fuck they neighbor threw soil wagon,but i do know you can grow in the stuff,just takes tweeking that most folk dont have and dont want the head ache,but when that all you got ,roll wit it bro,the way they have designed the stuff,it really is good for about 4 or 5 months of slow release,so use the humic and fulvic as your feed,and wouldnt hurt to put a bit of clean compost on them just scrath it in the top that alone is nutrients,every time you water it filters threw it if you dig.
so in a nut shell ,damage done,that screwed will not come back,roll with it like cancer and pamper it friend,dont worry of yield or looks and get the smoke off that you can ,next time you know better ,hope this helps a bit,,doesnt matter what soil you use,just nothing with slow realease nutrients in it,above you heard me say feed the soil,this is my meaning for that,feed the soil to make the life in the pot grow your pot and buy doing this stay away from synthetics and salts that kill them,and bro you be rolling in the stone if you keep them critters happy in that pot hahahah
Miracle NO!As soon as I read miracle grow I know exactly what ur problem is, miracle grow contains it's own food thus when u fed ur plants u burned them, buy fox farm, run do not walk from miracle grow its shit & only good 4 houseplants + those assholes put sodium in there shit, as 4 your plant flush long and hard & don't feed, I don't know what will happen if u add flowering agent most likely burn your plant again, I'm sorry friend but that's how you learn 2 grow by your mistakes, if you need help ask SNOLEPERD I will be glad to help you in any way possible. SNOLEPERD
You probably did not rinse the soil long enough and burnt the piss out of your plants... In mg you have to just use water for a long time to cool off the soil. This is not soil specific... It happens to a lot of ppl and a lot of soils...when you feed the minimum the plant will tell you what it needs... If you just pour shit in a plant... Youll give it diabetes.... And i bet your runoff ph is WAY OFFI have made whats looking to be a catastrophic mistake and wonder if anyone can help with some damage control.
I have used for my Miracle gro for my soil (peat free compost and enriched multi purpose. Both have slow release nutrients.) they are mixed very approximately 50/50 but varying degrees in each pot.
They seemed to do really well during the vegetative stage but as they have gone into flowering there are various problems appearing which seem to be getting worse as time goes by.
The first signs of trouble appeared after I started to feed them in the flowering stage, this appeared in deformed leaves in the new growth in some plants. These plants looked healthy and dark green with just deformity and maybe some stunted growth.
The others have been gradually getting slightly more pale in color and have now started to display brown spots on some leaves, generally higher on the plant. I will include pictures both at the end of this post.
I have looked at the brown spots under a microscope and cannot see any bugs. The brown spots seem to be mostly inn the gap between the veins.
I have done hours of research until I realized that the soil might be the issue. I have stopped feeding them as I did not want to over feed them if the soil is already feeding them. I am watering correctly as far as I know, typically every third day when the pots are light and the soil is coming away from the pot at the top. I water till there is slight run off and then remove the run off from the tray under the pot.
I have just checked the run off and it is ph5, the water I was using was tap water and was ph of 7.1.
I was using ph paper at first but now have a pen. I would like to know if the run off ph is important?
I was checking my ph after the fert was added.
I have a dirt cheap meter that supposedly checks the light levels/moisture and soil ph but it seems wildly inaccurate, reads ph7ish in soil.
There are leaves turning yellow at the underside of the plant and falling off and the brown spotted leaves at the top seem to be easy to pluck off.
I am using HPS lights 600w at the correct height.
Pots are fairly large, 5 gallon I think.
I fed with soil grow nutrients during vegetative stage and switched to soil bloom when switched to flowering. I stopped this after noticing the deformity in some plants and slight loss of color in others with no deformity after first soil bloom application.
The environment is within temp and recommended moisture levels, 20-30deg cel and 40-60% moist.
I have recently been made redundant and spent the last of my money on all this set up and am getting fairly concerned with the situation. I would greatly appreciate any and all advice on how to limp to the end as best I can. I have done a heck of a lot of research but this seems to be an unusual problem. The only information I repeatedly find is, don’t use miracle gro. Its the only thing I didn’t research at the beginning but probably the worst mistake I could have made.
Please let me know if you need any further information that would help with a diagnosis. Thank you.
I have been working under the model that splitting is the result of allowing a period of low water to shrink the fruit ever so slightly, creasing the skin, which then yields when re-inflated.i cant keep my tomato cool enough to keep from splitting
Hi oldskol4ever, thank you for your time and information, you have made me feel a lot better about being able to get to the end. I got some hope back.
I have ordered a ppm/ec pen and read up on the hanna chart. I am a bit confused and wondered if you would mind answering a few questions so I can buy the rest of the things you suggested.
1/ Would a tomato grow bag be ok to use for the top soil or should I buy some soil specifically for cannabis from the cannabis grow shop?
2/ You mention checking the ppm of my water, is this so that I can mix chemical nutrients accurately?
I thought you meant at the end of your post that I should not use chemical additives at all and just get the PH corrected so that the miracle gro and the new top soil can feed the plant with no additives?
3/ I have found some fulvic acid and humic acid to buy that are already pre mixed together and cheaper than buying separate, is it ok to use this or should I buy them separately?
4/ Can you tell me what PH I should water at considering My run off was PH5 or will the fulvic/humic take care of this? Unfortunately I flushed them thoroughly before I saw your reply, 30 liters fresh water per pot. This brought the run off PH up too 5.9 but may have washed some nutrients out of the soil.
5/ Do I need to worry about the run off PH and if so what should it be? or should I just concentrate on the PH of what I put in.
6/ I have bought some calcium chloride crystals, would it be a good idea to foliar spray the leaves with this or maybe add some to the new top soil? Many leaves have brown spots.
7/ How should I moniter the PH so I can get it right for the roots? Check the run off?
Sorryfor all the questions but I dont want to mess it up any further.
I really appreciate your advice, you have saved me lots of stressful time researching.
Thanks again buddy.
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