How I defeated pythium

Innov8tr · Aug 16, 2011

Thanks for the info Henation, I just had a couple of questions if you don't mind. Have you used that product in a UC before? What will aeration do to it?

Hermitian · Aug 16, 2011

Innov8tr said:
Thanks for the info Henation, I just had a couple of questions if you don't mind. Have you used that product in a UC before? What will aeration do to it?

I use it in DWC, and at some point in the year I use it in the fertigation tanks for many different environments including nursery plants in soil, personal plants in the ground, and so on.

It is stable in aerators and high-end fertilizer injectors. As a substance, it is similar to Physan. Reading the product label (link in previous post) you'll see it is a copper ammonium. Physan 20 is a triple ammonium -- three ammonia compounds.

In very tiny doses, Physan can work in aquaculture but I would not use Liqui-Cop when aquatic creatures are involved.

norcal215 · Aug 16, 2011

another great way i have overcame pythium was with a product called companion

Innov8tr · Aug 16, 2011

Thanks for the info, I'll look in to it. Seems like a commercial version of zone? I used pysan once and will never use it again, foam exploded out of every opening, took me 3 water changes to get it out. It was actually kind of comical how much foam there was. I just wanted to make sure that this product wouldn't do the same thing. Thanks again.

I thought recently I had another outbreak, but I realized what I was looking at was mud coating the roots from roots exel...washed right off.

desertsquirrel · Aug 19, 2011

Well it appears that the Sure-to-grow portion of our side-by-side is starting to fail us. One maybe 2 trees are/have fallen to a root rot (mostly stem rot) issue stemming from their tendency to hold water against the massive trunks.

This event has caused me to re-evaluate H2O2 and bleach application rates, and left me scratching my head.

5ml 30% H2O2 / 1000 ml H2O = 5 ppm H2O2 X .3 (or 30%) = 1.5 ppm / 3.785 (gal) = .39 ppm. Yes thats .39 ppm per gallon.

So the recommendations i have seen are between 30 and 50 ppm which means it would take 75 or 125 ml of H2O2 respectively. Far too much to be cost effective.

Similarly with sodium hypochlorite (bleach) At 6%:

.39 / 5 = 0.078 (with an AG rec of .5-1%) = 7-12 ml/gal

Though this solution is much more economical, application rates this high have been problematic in the UC giving way to toxicity issues. And likewise lower applications do not seem to deal with the problem

Next is zinc/copper based hydro products; lets look at zone:

.01 % copper @ 1ml per gal =1 / 3.785 X .01 = 0.002642 actual ppm copper. haha

We ordered a product that Hermation turned us onto w/8% copper that might help more.

This being said we are looking into an ozone unit, which from what i understand generates H2O2. If anyone has any info on either ozone gennys or application rates for these root products please chime in.

I also posted this as a new thread if you want to chime in there:

Innov8tr · Aug 19, 2011

Just try the recommendations I mentioned in this thread. Trust me I tried everything before getting it right with this. I lost 2 full runs and was about to lose the third and then I figured out the cure. These pics are before and after the treatment. Ended up with almost 1 lb per plant on a 6 site, biggest harvest I've had gram per watt.

bakershredhead · Aug 19, 2011

Check out http://www.biosafesystems.com product Oxidate, has peracatic acid at 2% and h2o2 27% plus buffers so it doesn't break down as easily as h2o2. Rates are 1-5000 or for outbreaks 1-2500 . They'll also test your water for you and tell you whats in it and what rates and products to use. I'm using right now in my Ebb tables that are pre vegging for the UC. I will be using it as soon as I transplant. Also great stuff to keep your rooms clean. I just got a Biomat that you fill with a Oxidate or other solution and set it at the foot of your door and in kills anything thats on your shoes.

desertsquirrel · Aug 19, 2011

I will defiantly check it out. thanks man.

But anything less then this, all the way till harvest, is unacceptable to myself or my employers:

aSilvrHaze · Aug 19, 2011

I like your standards!!! * Correction - LOVE your standards lol

Innov8tr · Aug 19, 2011

DS those pics of my roots are at harvest time. By then the roots get stained from the nutrients and additives so they won't look that white, especially under the HPS lighting. I wanted to mention that so that people wouldn't think that their roots have to be bright white to be healthy. When the roots are new they should look that way, but when they are old that changes, doesn't mean they have pythium. When I harvested my plant the roots were a light yellow and I'm positive they were healthy.

desertsquirrel · Aug 19, 2011

i disagree, i feel like harvest roots could look every bit as white and healthy as the pic of my veged ones. I will not stop until they are.

Innov8tr · Aug 19, 2011

I don't think it will happen unless your water stays clear. Its easy in the veg because the nutrient ppm's are low and very little additives. I don't know about you but at the end of my growing cycle the water is dark with additives and nutrient...inevitably the roots will be somewhat stained from it. For an example, like I mentioned above, that I used chaching as a flowering additive on my last run. If you've every mixed it up before you would know its very yellow. I made the mistake of mixing it in by hand in some fresh RO water...it stained my hand and several inches of my arm yellow for a whole day. If you don't think that would stain my roots I would have to disagree with you.

If your goal is perfect white roots then I hope that you can pull it off, but not sure if it would matter or not. I couldn't have expected anymore from my last harvest...I came it just under 2lbs per 1k and I'm really happy with that especially if its consistent. I'm not sure that if my roots were bright white vs yellow stained would have made any difference. I don't think that you should stress over the shade of white the roots are, pythium is a way more important issue. Healthy roots of ANY color are way better than diseased roots.

sfrenger · Nov 14, 2011

This thread saved my garden. Thanks soo much innov8tr. I have a top feed and drain system. I use advanced nutrients and use well water. This is my second hydro grow and I keep having breakouts at about week 6 of flower. This doesn't give me much time to address the pythium on an 8 to 9 week flower. My last grow was too far gone to fix it, but I caught it early with this grow. Only had one plant start dying. Within 2 days of using pythoff my plant is now starting to turn green again and i'm feeling soo much better. I will continue to use pythoff every 4 days and keep feeding roots b-52 while doing this. I'm truly greatful to threads like this.

ShamanGang · Nov 14, 2011

Seemed to be a seasonal problem for me. Late fall when the leaves fell off the trees and a lot of rotting vegetive matter was outside I always had a problem with it melting my cuts. I sterilized my medium with a microwave n sprayed the top with greencure then 7days later drenched the cuts with greencure too. this helped me tons but I also cleaned up changed bulbs and got sharper scissors evry year at this time too.

If you can design a system thats constantly active you will have little trouble with pith. It likes still water. But there are always super spores in the fungal universe that seem to learn to thrive in about any condition. When you are dealing with a zillion spores of anything natural selection gets tough. Lets grow som psillies and lighten up on the fungi out there folks. Anyone fruit mycelium in there hydro mediums? I like those shrroom/nug pics.

sfrenger · Nov 15, 2011

Damnit, I think I used too much pythoff. I have one of my buds and some leaves that have completely dried out. Is this a side affect of using too strong a solution? I added more water to my nutrient solution to help dilute it. Plus, I use a lighter ppm solution than everyone else. Anybody have any input? Is this from having too strong a nutrient solution after using pythoff (roots too sensitive after treatment) or is this strictly from using too strong a mixture of the pythoff itself?

leon6677 · Oct 28, 2014

Hello can anyone tell me were to get a pythium tester. I have the same problem with my well water. I have been using pythoff however I need a tester and no one sells one in the US. Furthermore no one will ship to the US. thanks!

ZombieSlave · Dec 8, 2014

Would Caps bennies do the trick or better off getting pythoff?

My last rez change I put in Ultra bloom (yellow bottle) and its created a major out break.

I hope i can turn it around.

How I defeated pythium

How I defeated pythium

Innov8tr

Hermitian

norcal215

Garden of Dreams Seed Co

Innov8tr

desertsquirrel

Innov8tr

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bakershredhead

desertsquirrel

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aSilvrHaze

Innov8tr

desertsquirrel

Innov8tr

sfrenger

ShamanGang

Guest

sfrenger

leon6677

ZombieSlave

How I defeated pythium

How I defeated pythium

Innov8tr

Hermitian

norcal215

Garden of Dreams Seed Co

Innov8tr

desertsquirrel

Innov8tr

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bakershredhead

desertsquirrel

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aSilvrHaze

Innov8tr

desertsquirrel

Innov8tr

sfrenger

ShamanGang

Guest

sfrenger

leon6677

ZombieSlave

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