ImOldSchool
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- Apr 29, 2025
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Be sure to carve out a good chunk of what appears to be healthy bud material around those brown spots. It could easily be infecting more bud tissue than meets your eyes. This is a case where being safe is better than being sorry. Bud rot creates toxins you don't want to smoke.That looks more like bud rot. Pull on the brown leaf gently, if it pulls out easily and the bud falls apart with brown stuff inside then it's mold. Cut away all moldy bud and dispose. Keep a sharp eye out for more and make sure you have plenty of air flow around the buds and hopefully you can make it till harvest. Good luck
Humidity, especially night time humidity spikes. Moving more air through the grow area can help but if the air is already saturated with water, you're still moving humidity through the plants. This is what happens every fall when temperatures drop into the dew point every night.dang - what causes this usually?
Our greatest fear, living in the NE part of the country around the great lakes.
I'm in Minnesota, so all this is validation. This is an auto, but next year perhaps I start it outdoors earlier. Keep the photo-periods inside perhaps.
The thing is they didn't evolve to make those tight fat seedless buds we love so much. They want to grow loose airy buds filled with hundreds of seeds. Seeds for the next generation are their only purpose in life. The fat swollen buds are a response to something going terribly wrong from the plants perspective, no pollen. Breeding by humans has a lot to do with it alsoHow this species even made it to todays present is unbelievable since the design of buds is simply asking for rot...
Weird evolution, one tiny bit of damage or drop of warm water in the wrong place and game over!
I second this. Add in the scourge of Septoria that starts in Spring and crawls up the plant into the sugar leaves before they're done and trying to bring a monster to completion gets harder and harder. We're getting fog every morning now.I'm in mid Michigan. If I start an auto run indoors in April, transfer them to the greenhouse mid May and then start another run of autos indoors and transfer them to the greenhouse towards the end of June, I will harvest the first run in July/early August and the second run August to the first week of September. In most years, that is doable where I live. Much after labor day and the dew point interferes every night until frost.
How old is the plant? You said it was an auto-flower plant so its quite possible its done. The one photo suggests its at least close. To be 100% sure, take trichome photos with a digital microscope. Harvesting could be your best move but before you do, what more can you tell us about your plants? Do you have the breeder's estimate for a seed to harvest grow? Can you post trichome photos?Well maybe I should cut it then. We are supposed to have ridiculously high temps and moisture in the air for a few more days this week. They're cloudy, just not amber...I nipped off the area and that bud is soooo sticky.
Thats bud rot, immediately remove the nug, bag it and get your humidity as low as possibleI think this is Powdery Mildew. I had a little a few weeks ago and I cut it out.
Is this more of the same? Looks similar.. but not exact. Or... maybe I should just harvest now? Was thinking one more week.. but this has me wanting it a tent drying out.
Its definitely rot, but if you pull on a sugar leaf it should come out without much resistance. Thats another tell tale sign. I've had a bunch of autos get it they tend to weak geneticsIt is an auto - and it broke ground approximately May 25 - so over 100 days now. Having my son take a better photo with his phone. I just can't get that microscope to work right.
What does the breeder estimate say about seed to harvest time. Many would be mature after 100 days. It's worth taking a look. My area of the country is going into a warm up next week. If your area is part of it, it could buy you some extra time if needed.It is an auto - and it broke ground approximately May 25 - so over 100 days now.
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