G
Gaudy
- Posts
- 130
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- 143
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2024
- Points
- 43
thanks, i started thinking the same thing about flushing it, getting rid of what ever might be causing the issue.
thanks, i started thinking the same thing about flushing it, getting rid of what ever might be causing the issue.Id flush that pot asap. Seems to be a toxicity that's blocking magnesium uptake.
Just flushed it, I'll wait a few days and see if it gets worse before giving it more nutrients, but to me it looks like it could be a potassium issue with how the discoloring is happening at the tips in between the veins instead of at the base of the leaf.Id flush that pot asap. Seems to be a toxicity that's blocking magnesium uptake.
I'd train that top down to about even with the lower colas and drop the light down to the same distance as it is to the top now, get a light meter and either they will grow into it (looks like its about done stretching) or increase the intensity like 3-5% a day til you hit good numbers, you can add co2 by brewing wine or beer(ethanol) in the same area and that will increase productivity if you aren't already supplementing co2Hello, first time grower here and I went ultra simplistic just to get my feet wet. I've got a nice little feminized plant growing, shes healthy except she has a lot of larfy buds on the lower branches with some really big ones at the tips. The top is blowing up and doing really well. I ordered some stuff to start supporting the lower branches that have the big buds on the ends b/c they are starting to twist bc they didnt grow thick and strong. I'm kind of lost about what to do here. Do I Hodor and let it ride or take action in some way?
Looking back there's a lot of things I would do differently, I'm not looking for the "should have's" I'm looking for what to do right now.
oh thats an interesting idea for more CO2, It looks like I also have a potassium deficiency, and even nitrogen. Used a soil test kit and they are on the low end despite the dark green leaves, granted i tested after flushing it once, but my phosphorus and Ph are money.Id
I'd train that top down to about even with the lower colas and drop the light down to the same distance as it is to the top now, get a light meter and either they will grow into it (looks like its about done stretching) or increase the intensity like 3-5% a day til you hit good numbers, you can add co2 by brewing wine or beer(ethanol) in the same area and that will increase productivity if you aren't already supplementing co2
Your dark leaves say you don't have a nitrogen deficiency. K is another story ... but don't boost N.oh thats an interesting idea for more CO2, It looks like I also have a potassium deficiency, and even nitrogen. Used a soil test kit and they are on the low end despite the dark green leaves, granted i tested after flushing it once, but my phosphorus and Ph are money.
Not so much a nitrogen deficiency as much as pushing nitrogen toxicity. Now that you’ve flushed you should be at a better point in a few days.oh thats an interesting idea for more CO2, It looks like I also have a potassium deficiency, and even nitrogen. Used a soil test kit and they are on the low end despite the dark green leaves, granted i tested after flushing it once, but my phosphorus and Ph are money.
I went back to the tests i did yesterday as i left the water samples, and the phosphorus sample is now really dark, looking at the charts this can cause super dark leaves as well. I'm now back to looking at low nitrogen and low potassium.Not so much a nitrogen deficiency as much as pushing nitrogen toxicity. Now that you’ve flushed you should be at a better point in a few days.
I went back to the tests i did yesterday as i left the water samples, and the phosphorus sample is now really dark, looking at the charts this can cause super dark leaves as well. I'm now back to looking at low nitrogen and low potassium.
Your sample is going to be dark the next day. It’s no longer good something like 15 minutes after it’s taken. If I take a water pH and leave it overnight it’ll be the darkest green there is before black.I went back to the tests i did yesterday as i left the water samples, and the phosphorus sample is now really dark, looking at the charts this can cause super dark leaves as well. I'm now back to looking at low nitrogen and low potassium.
I'm confused.
Why after several of us who have quite a bit of experience growing, do you still insist you have a nitrogen deficiency? You are approaching nitrogen toxicity!
Throw the test kit away. It's not accurate. Cut back on N and boost K. Keep your environmental parameters in the happy zone and you should be ok.
These older fan leaves are at the top where the big new growth came in, would these still be considered older? oddly enough the leaves turning are all at the same level and got some light burn on them a few weeks before the new light. None of the lower older leaves are seeing the same type of coloring. I ran soil samples, and the tests show low nitrogen and low potassium, high phosphorus. looking around at charts it looks like high phosphorus can look like high nitrogen, which is what caused me to take the soil samples.I see a plant that got a big light upgrade/adjustment and is now showing Mg issues. I say "issues" because other factors will determine if it's a deficiency or a lockout. Mg is the central atom in every chlorophyll molecule and when you see chlorosis between the veins there's no debate as to what it is unless it's on new growth. It's obvious from the pic we're looking at older fan leaves.
What locks out Mg? Too much Ca or K. Do you possibly have one of those conditions?
I see comments about N toxicity which is a valid point, and possibly contributing to the problem. N also has a strong symbiotic relationship with K.
We need to start from the beginning.
What's your water source?
What's the medium?
Overwatering will cause a magnesium deficiencyI see a plant that got a big light upgrade/adjustment and is now showing Mg issues. I say "issues" because other factors will determine if it's a deficiency or a lockout. Mg is the central atom in every chlorophyll molecule and when you see chlorosis between the veins there's no debate as to what it is unless it's on new growth. It's obvious from the pic we're looking at older fan leaves.
What locks out Mg? Too much Ca or K. Do you possibly have one of those conditions?
I see comments about N toxicity which is a valid point, and possibly contributing to the problem. N also has a strong symbiotic relationship with K.
We need to start from the beginning.
What's your water source?
What's the medium?
I know for a fact I'm not over watering, I'm using a microcontroller with a I2C soil moisture sensor that I coded to take soil moisture data readings every hour which is logged to a graphing software. I've been developing autonomous gardening infrastructure, still missing the nutrient portion tho. But I don't water until the soil reaches a specific capacitive reading.Overwatering will cause a magnesium deficiency
Have you ever considered your instruments and testing might be off? @Gaudy, you have shot down everyone's answer for everything. However if everything was working and giving you correct numbers, your plants would be healthy.I know for a fact I'm not over watering, I'm using a microcontroller with a I2C soil moisture sensor that I coded to take soil moisture data readings every hour which is logged to a graphing software. I've been developing autonomous gardening infrastructure, still missing the nutrient portion tho. But I don't water until the soil reaches a specific capacitive reading.
It is any seed you get when you buy a bag. For instance you buy an 8th from whoever of flower and it has a seed in it, that is bag seed. Literally just seeds you find in your bagwhat is a bag seed? also the plant is very likely stretched bc of the poor light i used.
Do you have prior data to refer to for the optimal conditions?I know for a fact I'm not over watering, I'm using a microcontroller with a I2C soil moisture sensor that I coded to take soil moisture data readings every hour which is logged to a graphing software. I've been developing autonomous gardening infrastructure, still missing the nutrient portion tho. But I don't water until the soil reaches a specific capacitive reading.
I've certainly not shot down everyones answer, and yes, I'm sure my instruments aren't off, I went through several weeks of testing and validating and double checking making sure the readings are accurate plus the MFR of the sensor has also made their own testing available to review. BTW looking at leaves and stating what nutrients the plant is missing isnt fool proof, its quiet the opposite, which is why i started taking soil samples and doing tests and then providing those results here. I'm a data driven person, i dont do things solely based on gut feeling. Also many of the suggestions provided I've considered and have performed them. But you cant tell me that you know exactly whats happening with a plants nutrients just based on color when that color is the same reaction for multiple plant nutrients issues, which is why i did a soil sample, chemical reactions cant lie. BTW after doing the flushing as someone suggested and then leading off my soil samples, I've added in SOP and the leaves have stopped turning and the plant appears much healthier.Have you ever considered your instruments and testing might be off? @Gaudy, you have shot down everyone's answer for everything. However if everything was working and giving you correct numbers, your plants would be healthy.
I had a feeling, but thought that maybe it was too simplistic lol.It is any seed you get when you buy a bag. For instance you buy an 8th from whoever of flower and it has a seed in it, that is bag seed. Literally just seeds you find in your bag
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