Insect Frass Fertilizer

keiksweat · Oct 4, 2016

Seamaiden said:
Oh... no, I haven't taken any pix. It's a 30 gallon glass aquarium that was set up for a leopard gecko so it's got a screen top that slides on. Mealworms need to be kept DRY, above all else. The screen keeps certain other bugs from setting up shop but a couple of times I've gotten some kind of moth in there that made its own grubs.

I bed the worms in wheat bran, an inch or two, and feed them stuff like carrots and potatoes and broccoli stems.

The biggest pain (can't recall if I posted about this or not) is sifting the frass out. It causes me a very severe allergic reaction, one of the worst I've ever experienced, literally makes me ill. So covering the face and nose is probably the best idea for anyone else who may have allergies.

This can probably be done in a plastic bin, just be sure it's never sealed tight so moisture is allowed to escape.

HTH! :)

thanks sea,think I get the picture anyway.eeeeek don't like the sound of the allergic reaction making me sick though. Thanks for sharing sea

Homesteader · Oct 4, 2016

I have thought about setting up a soldier fly farm to feed my chickens but a meal worm farm would be so much easier to convince my wife. @Seamaiden how quickly can they populate in a 30 gal? Where did you get the mealworms to start? Most of the ones bought at the stores for chickens come from China so I pass but my chickens love them.

keiksweat · Oct 4, 2016

Homesteader said:
I have thought about setting up a soldier fly farm to feed my chickens but a meal worm farm would be so much easier to convince my wife. @Seamaiden how quickly can they populate in a 30 gal? Where did you get the mealworms to start? Most of the ones bought at the stores for chickens come from China so I pass but my chickens love them.

I'm dying to see someone's set up.anyone else got pics of frass farm of any type plz?be great if I can run a worm bin and mealworm bin both together.plants would be thriving.with no damage to my wallet man..lol.

Seamaiden · Oct 4, 2016

Mein, if we weren't in the middle of a huge move I'd take pix for you. Just take a look at a reptile aquarium, that's exactly what I'm using. Everything gets layered on top.

keiksweat said:
thanks sea,think I get the picture anyway.eeeeek don't like the sound of the allergic reaction making me sick though. Thanks for sharing sea

I fucking did it again yesterday. I wanted all that frass and it wasn't sifting out very quickly. So, I took the aquarium outside and gave it a shake, got a really good whiff. It took maybe 10 minutes and I could feel my airway starting to shut down, thought I was going to have to go to the hospital.

I REALLY need a better way to get the frass than this. When the tingling in my face and neck started it kinda scared me.

Homesteader said:
I have thought about setting up a soldier fly farm to feed my chickens but a meal worm farm would be so much easier to convince my wife. @Seamaiden how quickly can they populate in a 30 gal? Where did you get the mealworms to start? Most of the ones bought at the stores for chickens come from China so I pass but my chickens love them.

I accidentally had a soldier fly farm, but didn't realize what the larvae were until AFTER I'd thrown them all outside the garage. I'm not sure why anyone would bother importing mealworms from China, they're so stupid easy to grow. I bought a couple thousand from an outfit that just sells mealworms and other feeding critters, I can't remember the name. It took a couple of months to get a nice, large colony growing.

If I had it to do over again, I'd want a type of container built that would allow the frass to naturally sift through so *I* don't have to go through all that crap just to get it. You could go to a pet shop and buy a few containers, but if it were me I'd search online for bugs. I think I paid $20 for the 2,000 worms. It probably took longer to get the colony going because there were no mature beetles, just the immature grubs.

keiksweat · Oct 4, 2016

t

Seamaiden said:
Mein, if we weren't in the middle of a huge move I'd take pix for you. Just take a look at a reptile aquarium, that's exactly what I'm using. Everything gets layered on top.

I fucking did it again yesterday. I wanted all that frass and it wasn't sifting out very quickly. So, I took the aquarium outside and gave it a shake, got a really good whiff. It took maybe 10 minutes and I could feel my airway starting to shut down, thought I was going to have to go to the hospital.

I REALLY need a better way to get the frass than this. When the tingling in my face and neck started it kinda scared me.

I accidentally had a soldier fly farm, but didn't realize what the larvae were until AFTER I'd thrown them all outside the garage. I'm not sure why anyone would bother importing mealworms from China, they're so stupid easy to grow. I bought a couple thousand from an outfit that just sells mealworms and other feeding critters, I can't remember the name. It took a couple of months to get a nice, large colony growing.

If I had it to do over again, I'd want a type of container built that would allow the frass to naturally sift through so *I* don't have to go through all that crap just to get it. You could go to a pet shop and buy a few containers, but if it were me I'd search online for bugs. I think I paid $20 for the 2,000 worms. It probably took longer to get the colony going because there were no mature beetles, just the immature grubs.

Thanks again sea.hope your move goes all well for you and your family.are you going far?oh,did I hear you mention the desert?or am I thinking of another convo,different person?

Seamaiden · Oct 4, 2016

Nope, that's me!

keiksweat · Oct 4, 2016

hoe

Homesteader said:
I have thought about setting up a soldier fly farm to feed my chickens but a meal worm farm would be so much easier to convince my wife. @Seamaiden how quickly can they populate in a 30 gal? Where did you get the mealworms to start? Most of the ones bought at the stores for chickens come from China so I pass but my chickens love them.

how many chicken you got homesteader?id definitely look into mealworms farm.food for the livestock,and free amazing amendment,feed.i swear,I rate beetle frass as the best new addition to my garden in years,bar non.espeacialy teas and foliars of this stuff.amazing results.even seems to have helped with my fungus gnat problems.the only other thing I've used is a pound shop citronella push up,air freshener,bug killer thingamajig.cant see it being that.had shit loads of fgs...

Seamaiden · Oct 4, 2016

Right now I've got 8 laying hens who are almost all molting, and 7 new Silver-laced Wyandotte chicks, 6 pullets and 1 cockerel I've named Sergeant Pepper.

I also have the aquaponic system where I've been using the frass, but I don't see the fish eating many of the grubs, they seem to go after the beetles. I generally don't feed the beetles because I want them to continue making more grubs for me. Yes, the chickens lose their GOURDS over the mealworms.

I had an accidental soldier fly farm going like I said, in a bin I was cold composting in to which I'd added native earthworms. I have no idea if the worms still live, but I kept finding these weird things, thought they were a cocoon. Turned out they're the BSF larvae. D'oh! Tossed 'em out for my birds to eat and eat them they did. Now I don't see any more BSFs so I'll have to buy if I want them. I've seen some pretty slick AP setups with BSF farms set in such a manner that the larvae feed themselves to the fish, going up a sort of ramp if you will. Pretty neat, the mealworms don't do that!

keiksweat · Oct 4, 2016

that sounds amazing sea.would love to check that out.i forgot you had the aqua set up too.how you gonna manage moving all that?are you planning to set up everything as before.?

Homesteader · Oct 4, 2016

Hey @keiksweat I have about 3o chickens with a few more hatching out now and one turkey left now how about you?

Seamaiden · Oct 7, 2016

keiksweat said:
that sounds amazing sea.would love to check that out.i forgot you had the aqua set up too.how you gonna manage moving all that?are you planning to set up everything as before.?

We did it! Man oh MAN what a trick that was, mostly convincing my husband that, yes, it can be done. The only aquatic animals I lost were lost when I drained the pond down, a fish got itself stuck under a mat and died, and another fish and crawdaddy got stuck in the sump pump. A quick whack handled that. Other than that, all are doing GREAT.

Do I fucking know how to ship fish, or do I know how to ship fish? I need to take pix of what I did so people can see, especially in my aquaponics fora. I'll see if I can get pix up.

I can't set up as before for a few reasons. Climate, geology, and the fact that we are now officially renters and no longer homeowners. At least the landlords are my folks.

We also got the new batch of chicks shipped, they handled it like troopers but the weather played a big role. Never got above 80*F, which for the Central Valley is something.

Ok, off to take pix and see if I can upload them. Grp, can't figure out how to do it using my Tablet. When my computer is set up I'll be able to do it. We's gots us bluegill!

keiksweat · Oct 7, 2016

Seamaiden said:
We did it! Man oh MAN what a trick that was, mostly convincing my husband that, yes, it can be done. The only aquatic animals I lost were lost when I drained the pond down, a fish got itself stuck under a mat and died, and another fish and crawdaddy got stuck in the sump pump. A quick whack handled that. Other than that, all are doing GREAT.

Do I fucking know how to ship fish, or do I know how to ship fish? I need to take pix of what I did so people can see, especially in my aquaponics fora. I'll see if I can get pix up.

I can't set up as before for a few reasons. Climate, geology, and the fact that we are now officially renters and no longer homeowners. At least the landlords are my folks.

We also got the new batch of chicks shipped, they handled it like troopers but the weather played a big role. Never got above 80*F, which for the Central Valley is something.

Ok, off to take pix and see if I can upload them. Grp, can't figure out how to do it using my Tablet. When my computer is set up I'll be able to do it. We's gots us bluegill!

lol.sounds like you've achieved some amazing fête there,only 2 losses.id love to watch a documentary movie of that move sea.hehe..i bet it was epic..anypics if your aqua set up would be amazing.come on.....break out that old memory stick,lets have a look plz..

Homesteader · Oct 8, 2016

Seamaiden · Oct 9, 2016

@keiksweat -- Ok, my main machine is up and running and I've got a coupla pix. Hopefully my explanations are sufficient but if not I am more than happy to answer any questions.

K, first set of pix are the inverter and pump used to maintain aeration during the trip. This is done specifically because the fish were not bagged with O2. If shipping in an enclosed container/bag, O2 is usually required (EXCEPTION! All fishes with labyrinthine organ must be bagged with air, they breathe atmospheric O2/air and bagging with pure O2 will kill them). For certain fishes, such as Cyprinids like goldies and koi we also bag with zeolites (@Homesteader ).

Note the gang valve here. Because the O2/CO2 exchange occurs at the water's surface, we're after a roiling water surface. To that end, no air stones here! Open, weighted air lines are the ticket.

Simple inverter keeps the 110v pump working through the drive.

So, to the "how" of the thing being done. 35gal (bigger is better if you can do it!) trash cans lined with contractors bags. filled no more than 1/3-1/2 full. This keeps the water volume to surface area ratio high, which again is important for that O2/CO2 exchange to occur, and also keeps the weight down.

Why contractors bags? They're chemically inert and clean. I've been using them since the 80s to mix seawater, in fact.
Line the cans with TWO bags, to be extra safe (plus, Dave drilled holes in every trash can, to my chagrin, to make putting bags in and out easier. Gah! How can I brew teas now?). About a cup of zeolite is thrown into each trash can to keep the NH3 levels tolerable.

ALSO, a couple of months ago I tossed some matting used for things like air conditioners into the main pond up north with the express purpose of using it in the cans to act as actual biological filtration. I believe this is what really allowed me the zero losses here. A piece of matting was also put inside each trash can.

Tops are bungeed down and cans are tied securely in the bed of the truck. Pump is hung from lumber rack OVER the trash cans (yes, I am anal about air pumps being over the water they're pushing air through).

The crawdaddies don't need much water, so they went into 5gal buckets with about an inch of water, those were stacked together and fitted in between some trash cans with fish. No fights, no one lost more claws, but I know I bought 50 crawdaddies so I also know they thinned down their own numbers in that big ol' pond. Now I have 8.

So, the new pond itself. It's a pretty basic structure dug into the ground, approximately 500gals, 5' long, 3' wide and about 2.5' deep at the deepest point (always make a slope at the pond bottom so detritus collects in one area).

The half-barrel used to be a grow bed, it can still be a grow bed. Right now it's my biological filtration. You can see that we built a very shallow area to the right, this is because the pond is not fenced and I've already had some bunnies fall in and drown trying to get to the water. This is also why the landscape fabric over top, so they can get back out. The goldfish love hanging out under the filter outlet.

You can JUST make out some of my bluegill babies in this photo.

Once done with the mats used for shipping, they're tossed into the top of the new bio filter, thus giving me instant biological filtration, and hidey holes for some of the crawdaddies. Once the pond is established and I'm ready to start aquaponicing again, the pads will be replaced by gravel.

ace1719 · Jan 20, 2017

If anyone is interested, I run a food grade cricket farm in Ontario, and we are looking to expand into selling frass. Our website is thirdmillenniumfarming.com. Our web store isn't working yet, but you can e-mail me at alex@thirdmillenniumfarming.com if you'd like to purchase some. If you live in the GTA and would like to check out our farm, we're always very open to visitors.

kbellfoy · Jan 26, 2017

I use frass every grow. I'm organic soil. I use the charge one. It has helped immensely since I started to incorporate it in my soil. I still use the EWC too.

AMAUULU · Mar 3, 2018

QUESTION RE HOW TO USE AND ENHANCE EFFECTS OF INSECT FRASS from Newbie Grower seeking criticism & advice:

Does anyone here have experience with PRE-MIXING POTTING MEDIUM/SOIL with both INSECT FRASS (dry from package) and MYCORRHIZAL POWDER?

Insect Frass is supposed to build a plant's resistance to pests; adding the myco fungi is supposed to enhance the effect of the Frass. Do you aggree?

(1) I am thinking of Pre-mixing Insect Frass into potting medium/soil before planting: Directions of one manufacturer of insect frass (NPK of 2-2-2) is to mix 1 Cup dry Insect Frass per 1 Cu Ft of potting medium/soil before planting. Is this too high a ratio of Frass to potting soil?

(2) I think I will also (a) roll dampened seed (pre-soaked in warm non-chlorinated/non-chloramine water for 8 to 10 hrs before planting) in Endomycorrhizal Powder before inserting the seed into its rooting cube/plug, and then also (b) lightly coating that rooting cube/plug with powdered Endomycorrhizal Powder to help create a better germination environment for the emerging seedling.

My Beginner Plan = totally Outdoors grow, germination to harvest, in air-root-pruning 5 gal (small autos, maybe two plants) 10 to 12.5 gal (medium height, maybe two plants) and 25 gal (Jack Herer tall, one plant), within secure fenced mostly sunny area.

Foundation potting soil mix = 3 cu ft non-soil peat based mix innoculated with Endomycorrhizae plus 1.5 cu ft FFOF, into which I am thinking of adding Insect Frass plus Endomycorrhizal powder (which has four Endomycorrhizae species, two of which are specifically used by cannabis).

In order to completely skip transplant step (attempting to imitate Mother Nature), each seed will be germinated in its final grow pot. Cannot grow directly in garden soil because of endemic killer Oak Root Rot Fungus (Armillaria mellea).

After filling a pot with foundation potting mix (which I will moisten), I will hollow out of the foundation potting soil, a planting hole 6 in diam x 8 in depth. I will put about a Tablespoon of Endomycorrhizal powder into the bottom of that planting hole, then fill that planting hole with a commercially prepared seed germination potting mix (which I will moisten). Then I will place the rooting cube/plug with its shallowly encased pre-soaked seed into that hollowed out "pot" of germination soil and then lightly cover the rooting plug with 1-2 cm of germination soil.

I will do the initial mistings-waterings with a spray bottle (containing a weak solution of German chamomile tea to reduce chance of "damping off") and using a digital moisture measuring probe to monitor adequacy of moisture for the germinating seed-seedling. Please suggest other methods to prevent "damping off".

The digital moisture measuring probe is also supposed to measure soil pH ( I haven't tried it out yet), and I am deciding which inexpensive tool to get to measure water pH. Any suggestions?

I haven't yet mixed my simple foundation potting soil so please tell me about proportions. I have looked at several recipes for growing mediums and decide to make it as simple as possible by just using commercially prepared mixes. I am going to cultivate less than 6 plants.

I also purchased a 30 lb bag of Worm Castings from my local hydro store which I am thinking of using for "top dressing" (once the seedlings grow to about 6 to 10 inches height, or for making nutrient tea for a "drench". Which is better.... "top dressing" or "drench"?

Note: I am growing solely for Personal Medical Use. I do not smoke (or "vape"); bud flavour & taste are not important. What I harvest will be for making sublingual drops and topical oils, creams, & salves.

All criticisms, advice, suggestions, corrections welcome, please. This is a learning experience for me.

stiffneck · Mar 3, 2018

I think you should give your ideas a try.... I bet it works great. I am a huge fan of dry amendments and the ease of just "throwing it in". Doesn't get much more simple than that.

I used insect frass last year as a soil drench and as a foliar spray... my plants seemed to love it...

I use EWC everywhere and use it dry and also make tea and a sludge I water with.... also do this with Malibu bu compost.

I usually don't measure anything and just eye it out. Things are growing pretty well.... here are some roots....

AMAUULU · May 14, 2018

kbellfoy said:
I use frass every grow. I'm organic soil. I use the charge one. It has helped immensely since I started to incorporate it in my soil. I still use the EWC too.

Tejashidrow · May 19, 2018

AMAUULU said:
QUESTION RE HOW TO USE AND ENHANCE EFFECTS OF INSECT FRASS from Newbie Grower seeking criticism & advice:

Does anyone here have experience with PRE-MIXING POTTING MEDIUM/SOIL with both INSECT FRASS (dry from package) and MYCORRHIZAL POWDER?

Insect Frass is supposed to build a plant's resistance to pests; adding the myco fungi is supposed to enhance the effect of the Frass. Do you aggree?

(1) I am thinking of Pre-mixing Insect Frass into potting medium/soil before planting: Directions of one manufacturer of insect frass (NPK of 2-2-2) is to mix 1 Cup dry Insect Frass per 1 Cu Ft of potting medium/soil before planting. Is this too high a ratio of Frass to potting soil?

(2) I think I will also (a) roll dampened seed (pre-soaked in warm non-chlorinated/non-chloramine water for 8 to 10 hrs before planting) in Endomycorrhizal Powder before inserting the seed into its rooting cube/plug, and then also (b) lightly coating that rooting cube/plug with powdered Endomycorrhizal Powder to help create a better germination environment for the emerging seedling.

My Beginner Plan = totally Outdoors grow, germination to harvest, in air-root-pruning 5 gal (small autos, maybe two plants) 10 to 12.5 gal (medium height, maybe two plants) and 25 gal (Jack Herer tall, one plant), within secure fenced mostly sunny area.

Foundation potting soil mix = 3 cu ft non-soil peat based mix innoculated with Endomycorrhizae plus 1.5 cu ft FFOF, into which I am thinking of adding Insect Frass plus Endomycorrhizal powder (which has four Endomycorrhizae species, two of which are specifically used by cannabis).

In order to completely skip transplant step (attempting to imitate Mother Nature), each seed will be germinated in its final grow pot. Cannot grow directly in garden soil because of endemic killer Oak Root Rot Fungus (Armillaria mellea).

After filling a pot with foundation potting mix (which I will moisten), I will hollow out of the foundation potting soil, a planting hole 6 in diam x 8 in depth. I will put about a Tablespoon of Endomycorrhizal powder into the bottom of that planting hole, then fill that planting hole with a commercially prepared seed germination potting mix (which I will moisten). Then I will place the rooting cube/plug with its shallowly encased pre-soaked seed into that hollowed out "pot" of germination soil and then lightly cover the rooting plug with 1-2 cm of germination soil.

I will do the initial mistings-waterings with a spray bottle (containing a weak solution of German chamomile tea to reduce chance of "damping off") and using a digital moisture measuring probe to monitor adequacy of moisture for the germinating seed-seedling. Please suggest other methods to prevent "damping off".

The digital moisture measuring probe is also supposed to measure soil pH ( I haven't tried it out yet), and I am deciding which inexpensive tool to get to measure water pH. Any suggestions?

I haven't yet mixed my simple foundation potting soil so please tell me about proportions. I have looked at several recipes for growing mediums and decide to make it as simple as possible by just using commercially prepared mixes. I am going to cultivate less than 6 plants.

I also purchased a 30 lb bag of Worm Castings from my local hydro store which I am thinking of using for "top dressing" (once the seedlings grow to about 6 to 10 inches height, or for making nutrient tea for a "drench". Which is better.... "top dressing" or "drench"?

Note: I am growing solely for Personal Medical Use. I do not smoke (or "vape"); bud flavour & taste are not important. What I harvest will be for making sublingual drops and topical oils, creams, & salves.

All criticisms, advice, suggestions, corrections welcome, please. This is a learning experience for me.

I love insect frass!!
I use at the start of each season and it’s for sure the best amendment I add for sure.
Don’t add after 4 th week of flower
Don’t add/mix mycos into your soil
The fungus must be in contact with roots to grow.
Put on roots and into hole at transplant.
Otherwise your just wasting it hopeing a root will make contact.
Keep it real!!!

Insect Frass Fertilizer

Insect Frass Fertilizer

keiksweat

Homesteader

keiksweat

Seamaiden

Living dead girl

keiksweat

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Insect Frass Fertilizer

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Living dead girl

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