M
methdeler
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- Aug 7, 2025
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From my experience with HLVD the plant either duds OR it will look adequate through flowering and when you take it off the drying rack/line you will notice the entourage effect absent. Gone. Missing.. Is it growing slowly? EVERYTHING is a Ph problem if your Ph is off. Flush it and measure the Ph of your runoff. If it's out of wack flush it until its normal. around 6.0. If it IS hops latent viroid, flushing won't help it. So that's a clue.Could be HLVd it is really hard to disgnose
Tho
Soil has buffers in you won't change them with some water and fertsFrom my experience with HLVD the plant either duds OR it will look adequate through flowering and when you take it off the drying rack/line you will notice the entourage effect absent. Gone. Missing.. Is it growing slowly? EVERYTHING is a Ph problem if your Ph is off. Flush it and measure the Ph of your runoff. If it's out of wack flush it until its normal. around 6.0. If it IS hops latent viroid, flushing won't help it. So that's a clue.
You said it bro. Agreed completely.Soil has buffers in you won't change them with some water and ferts
When the buffers go the soil becomes useless for growing you would have to mix more buffers in etc etc
Waters alkalinity is miniscule in the grand scheme of soil, your acting like it will neutralise strong acid and alkaline when in fact it's relatively neutral and doesn't change much of anything
Some hydro advice got mixed up with the soil and people think you can change the pH of a lime buffered biologically active soil with mere water and some pH up and down
I like the way you worded that, the soil would change the pH not the other way roundYou said it bro. Agreed completely.
It would be the active living soil that would change the ph of the water not the other way around.
Do not most living soils have the addition of lime in them to counter pH?An organic microbially active living soil can't be fixed using Ph buffered water, that's true. I was thinking hydroponics. NFT or deep water culture or even old school flood to waste using the bottled nutrients or hydro-organics. In a living soil you theoretically should have accounted for that BEFORE the plant goes into the soil. I was under the impression it was mostly self correcting due to organic material/humus. Unless the recipe or soil build was drastically off. Don't know, don't use it. Got a recipe I have been meaning to try I bought all the amendments but the Ph issue does make me nervous.
Need a whole bunch more info. What is the media? What are you feeding (organic or synthetic)? Are you PHing the nute water, if so to what PH?. How often are you watering and how much? Clone or from seed?
Do not most living soils have the addition of lime in them to counter pH?
Careful you'll upset may bro companies and bro scientists with this knowledge...Yes, most living soils use dolomite. It's a lime that has a tendency to not over-correct the soil pH. Another lime you'll see is oyster shell calcium. These are the only 2 kinds of lime I would put in my soil if I were making a home made living mix.
"Fast acting" or "Garden Lime" will over-correct leaving a grower with a potting mix that is out of range. Those limes should be avoided.
You never know huh ... seems some people you breathe wrong and their upset. At any rate, cheers ...Careful you'll upset may bro companies and bro scientists with this knowledge...
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