Eledin
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The yellow tips seem to be on the leaves mid-level in the canopy, while the damaged leaves are up pretty high. I included the light in this photo:Are the upper tips affected in particuler while the rest of the nodes seem to be better or with no yellow tips? If so the light was too close.
About the PH I would say try to keep it stable and between the ranges you should for coco (seems like you were withing the range but you kept swaping from lower to upper side of that range, that could have caused problems).The yellow tips seem to be on the leaves mid-level in the canopy, while the damaged leaves are up pretty high. I included the light in this photo:
View attachment 2376915
The worst damaged leaves are about 15" from the light now, but they were closer and the light was at 100% (Spider Farmer SF1000). Also, and I'm not sure how I've not realized this, I had added a third light to the tent a few weeks ago. Everything was going great for a couple weeks, so I didn't think much of it. I have since moved it away from the sick plant, so now only the one light is hitting it. I found a page with pictures and descriptions of every cannabis malady on GWE and the only ones that seem to match are calcium deficiency or phosphorus deficiency, but with phosphorus she says the problem usually starts down low on the plant. So from what everyone is saying and from what I've studied, it seems this must be a calcium issue, right? And since calcium seems to affect the way a plant handles light, the fact I had the lights too bright for it really exasperated the problem? The question now is, how do I fix it? I've turned down the lights and moved them away, but what about the calcium and ph management?
They have a hard water version but if he doesnt know what he has its probably the soft water version which would be good in his case as well water comes with a fair ammount of ppm, mostly minerals.Most if not all companies base their recommended doses with RO filtered water. And if we're using hard well water here, Your not mixing per recommended values. Because your EC/PPM (from the well water) is already up there from the get go. With RO water, your EC/PPM is near 0. When you measure out whatever PPM your aiming at... YOUR GETTING IT. Hard to say what your getting with tap/Well water.
Everything I read, including the feeding chart I was using, said to keep ph between 5.5 and 6.5 for coco so I was letting it drift up and down. This may have bit me in the ass a little. I'm getting ready to feed now and I'll go back to 6.0 ph and lower the nutes some.Correct me if Im wrong but 6,4 ph in coco woudlnt be considered too high too? I know it was only temporarily but it has been changing a lot right? Even if the change wasnt that big all the times.
TBH, when I got my pen I tested the EC of my feed and it seemed way high (+2,000), but the plants were doing great, so I just stuck to the chart. The first time I checked the runoff it was over 5,000, but the plants were thriving, so I just stopped measuring EC and kept to the chart. Maybe that's biting me in the ass a little too. I read somewhere that plants get a whole lot more finicky in flowering and near the end.Most if not all companies base their recommended doses with RO filtered water. And if we're using hard well water here, Your not mixing per recommended values. Because your EC/PPM (from the well water) is already up there from the get go. With RO water, your EC/PPM is near 0. When you measure out whatever PPM your aiming at... YOUR GETTING IT. Hard to say what your getting with tap/Well water.
I'm using the General Hydroponics FloraTrio, which doesn't seem to have two versions. You'd think these guys could come up with names that don't sound like everybody else's.
That they do.. And you don't want it that high near the end. Slamming your flower with the one thing your trying to get out during the dry/cure. Nitrogen/ChlorophyllEverything I read, including the feeding chart I was using, said to keep ph between 5.5 and 6.5 for coco so I was letting it drift up and down. This may have bit me in the ass a little. I'm getting ready to feed now and I'll go back to 6.0 ph and lower the nutes some.
TBH, when I got my pen I tested the EC of my feed and it seemed way high (+2,000), but the plants were doing great, so I just stuck to the chart. The first time I checked the runoff it was over 5,000, but the plants were thriving, so I just stopped measuring EC and kept to the chart. Maybe that's biting me in the ass a little too. I read somewhere that plants get a whole lot more finicky in flowering and near the end.
Oh theyre the same brand but theyre called Terra Aquatica in Europe. Maybe in the US version from GH they dont have for hard and soft water.I'm using the General Hydroponics FloraTrio, which doesn't seem to have two versions. You'd think these guys could come up with names that don't sound like everybody else's.
just wondering if you noticed any gnats?
or other pests using magnification?
magnesium is mobile like nitrogen and problems start in older leaves 1st. If calcium is very high in water supply and he is adding more it can be causing toxicity and lock out which mimics deficiency. It's my understanding that it (calcium) builds up quickly in soil and coco. He didn't mention his water source that I saw. I'm assuming it's just tap water. just my .02Exactly! I'm my experience Ca is usually abundant when feeding "by the book" but because the plant cannot move it around like other nutrients, it has to be available in the root zone every feeding. That's why cal/mag deficiencies show up at the top/new growth. Other movable nutrients get sucked up from older, lower leaves when the root zone stops providing them and start showing from the bottom usually.
So if you know you're feeding it enough calcium, environmental factors can get in the way of absorption. Also too much Potassium can block Calcium so that's why my first instinct was to lower the feed.
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