Flappenschmapple
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- Jul 28, 2021
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3” is way too close to the seedling. I would recommend with T5’s that you keep the lights about 6-10” away from the seedling. 3” would be fine for a T5 light once the plant enters vegetative stage but by then you should have moved to Metal Halide or LED’sTrying to start my first indoor op and have failed miserably twice. Germination was successful both times (paper towel method). Went straight into a solo cup filled with coast of Maine soil with mycorrhiza sprinkled in hole. Kept in dark room until seed popped through soil. I had a 2’ T5 bulb that I placed about 3” away from seedling. After day five the seed was still not opening its two first leaves. Upgraded to a 4’ 4 bulb T5 (took two end bulbs out). Light cycle was 18 on 6 off. can’t think of where I went wrong? Is that soil too hot for a seedling? Was able to maintain temps 69-75’ and humidity around 50-63%. I did notice some small fruit fly looking incests buzzing around in there. Like I said my very first time and I am just a little lost. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I know this is the most delicate part of the plants life and any mistake can be critical. I never let the soil dry out but I also didn’t over water. I have some experience growing outdoors. Both failed attempts were feminized photos
Yes, the seed shell popped right off of both seeds. And yes it is stonington blend. Ok cool thanks for info, third times a charm I guessMy guess is that you overwatered, even though you don't think you did. Overwatering is probably the most common way to kill seedlings.
Did the seed shell come off and the cotyledon leaves still wouldn't open?
CoM has several soil mixes. Stonington Blend is probably too hot for seedlings. They likely have one that is OK for seedlings.
I kind of figured that was a bit too close. I have an electric sky 300 on deck for when i enter next stage, hopefully I can eventually get to that point3” is way too close to the seedling. I would recommend with T5’s that you keep the lights about 6-10” away from the seedling. 3” would be fine for a T5 light once the plant enters vegetative stage but by then you should have moved to Metal Halide or LED’s
I believe if you raise your lights your problem will be resolved. Also just incase over watering is an issue although I doubt it, water moderately once the seedling is planted and let the soil dry out to about a quarter of your finger length deep before watering again.I kind of figured that was a bit too close. I have an electric sky 300 on deck for when i enter next stage, hopefully I can eventually get to that point
I believe if you raise your lights your problem will be resolved. Also just incase over watering is an issue although I doubt it, water moderately once the seedling is planted and let the soil dry out to about a quarter of your finger length deep before watering again.
Would you keep all four bulbs in and just raise it? Like I said I did take the two end bulbs out and then I raised it but at that point in time it was almost to ten days and the first two leaves still did not open.I believe if you raise your lights your problem will be resolved. Also just incase over watering is an issue although I doubt it, water moderately once the seedling is planted and let the soil dry out to about a quarter of your finger length deep before watering again.
Correct, it is not a seedling mix. Had half a bag lying around from my outdoor grow last year, so figured I’d give it a goIt may have been your light but seedlings can be delicate and you may want to hold off going right into active soil until it gets it roots established. Something like peat or coco without any nutrients or microbes for the first week or two. I am assuming the Coast of Maine stuff is not a seedling mix.
Cold air currents, light and water that is too cold. Seeds germinate in the dark, in nature a seedling has to push through leaf cover and other obstacles to reached the light. Try killing the lights completely and keep a seedling dome over them to keep them damp and make sure you have a seedling mat to keep the medium warm.
Once you see cotyledons push through the soil turn one light on and keep it low until you see the first true leaves.View attachment 1210184
All my lights are on for testing in this photo, keep them off until they sprout.
Just use some organic jiffy seed starter mix in the solo cup. Add some drain holes. Moisten it first and don’t add anything. Put it in a warm dark place. No need to prior germinate. Main purpose of those cotyleden leaves is to feed the plant it’s first couple weeks of life.Yes, the seed shell popped right off of both seeds. And yes it is stonington blend. Ok cool thanks for info, third times a charm I guess
Cheapest LEDs there are lol.Is that A led not a T5 cfl? Because in the pic it looks purple to me?
If it's led you want temps 80-82f and I'm not 100% sure on humidyy I think veg you want 60-70% with temps running at 80-82fCheapest LEDs there are lol.
Having a IR thermometer is invaluable. One of my cheaper tools and most used. 80 - 82 room temp under an LED is a good guide but can also be misleading. Depends on air circulation/and frequency of exhaust cycles. Sometimes my room is 80 - 82 and leaf temp of 80 which is high. Other times the room is 77 and the leaves are the same. Point is don’t guess at leaf temp. The ideal leaf temp is 75 - 77.If it's led you want temps 80-82f and I'm not 100% sure on humidyy I think veg you want 60-70% with temps running at 80-82f
And flower led you want humidity I'm 100% on flower need 50-60% with led at day temps 80-82f
80f with led is like 75f with clf and Hps, led give off no heat so leaf temps are cooler than they are with hps and clf, so need higher temps to get the leaf temps up
The will drink slow because leaf temps are low and grow like shit
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