Joe Fresh
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- Dec 25, 2013
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...hmmm...feed low you say...by most ppl here in promix i feed low, also in soil i feed moderately with my mix...I have been growing in coco for many years. I think the most important advice I can give is: Feed low EC in veg...until they show they are hungry. When switching to flower I like to leach all my girls with low EC feed around 0.9 - 1.0EC. (Never feed coco straight water) the day they go into 12/12.. Then once a week during flower...feed that low EC to keep the buildup in flowering down. In summary: It is better to feed low in coco until they show they NEED more food.
fungus gnats are like mosquitos, they like damp humid areas....i would say if you had them in hydro im sure they would be much easier to treat than soil, peat, or coco, seeing that you have full access to the roots...for me gnats wont be a problem..I am like you hate change, I am a hydro guy so I never have soil in my grows. This time I decided to keep a few Mothers and for the first time I used coco. Things did not work out that well for me. For the first time in a countless grows I got root rot in my hydro and my mothers in Coco have fungun knat larvea. Been wondering where the fuck there flys where coming from for a few months now.
I was watering the plants and noticed may tiny little white worm like things in the soil looked just like the roots and it moved so fast that when I grabbed my camera they where gone. I guess its one of Coco's con's they say it happens once in a while. Is this true? I wish I would have know this, I am about to loose my one and only Miss U Jack over this. I will never use coco again from this experience.
actually, fungus gnats are nothing but a thing, if you have a smallish grow up to even a 10 x 10 or so you can deal with fungus gnats with ease, ...first line of attack for me on the odd occasion when i get gnats is yellow sticky tapes and i only run a 4 x 4 so the sticky tapes are all i've ever needed, ...it's the flyers that lay the eggs and the sticky tapes continue to catch a diminishing number of adult egg layers until they stop reproducing, usually within 2 or 3 weeks.
...there are chemical treatments too but i've never needed to resort to them, mites are a much bigger pain in the ass and even mites are nothing but a thing once you really understand their lifecycle. ...pests are just part of this hobby is all.
peace, bozo
Thanks for the info, Lowman. Learn something new everyday :bookworm: :happy:Feeding coco straight water will screw up the balance. You will find that feeding a low EC(ppm) to coco will leach(flush) out the coco faster as well.
Get ur pH down a bit. Optimum range for coco is 5.8 to 6. Imo u may run into some trouble at 6.3!I use the Botanicare ready grow moisture formula with Botanicare pro blend grow, super thrive, and cal-mag. My pH is around 6.3 and the ppm is around 700. Hand watered about every other day to 2 days with the run off caught by a saucer. Have had to flush a few times to make her healthy, but now looks very happy. Still in veg, going to move her into bloom soon. I'm a newer grower, what should I be looking for and keeping in mind? Any advice is welcome.
Lowman, y should you not feed strait h2o to coco??
...i agree completely, i think a little variation is a good thing which is why, in my own case, all i use is a drop tester, i shoot for piss yellow and call it a day and my plants seem to be happy with my lackadaisical approach.Tnelz, I like to let it range between 5.8-6.2, with occasional forays outside those parameters. HOWEVER, what's most important here is to use the plants as your guide instead of just chasing numbers. If growchick's plant is looking really good, then I wouldn't change anything just yet. Killed too many fish making changes trying to chase numbers.
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