MIMedGrower
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Bahaha right, I hear that. I mean I have my own so unlikely they would colonize and be out competed anyhow. But I do like they have some good food sources for them in it. Not that they need much.
Personally if you set your hydro up right (not a fast process) and look after it (much different practices than current norm) there is not need to add any bennies to your system, they occur naturally.
I'm doing some testing on some of this now so far no issues and I cannot foresee any. But I would not feel comfortable encouraging others to due so without a decent understanding.
Honestly the most plug and play method is sterile. But then again you don't learn from not doing
Added: the majority of bennies added don't do well in hydro and need to be constantly resupplied. I keep hydrogaurd on hand only for the purpose of treating pythium if that happens since the particular strain used in it has been shown for many years to kill pythium in agriculture
Bingo... Lots of marketing and hype for sales. I think seeding is beneficial but after that with proper care and the right strains (some like hydrogaurd use soil bacteria that do not reproduce well in current hydro practices) all you need to to be mindful and look after them.No one talks about bennies occuring naturally in soil amd plant roots either. That would hurt sales. But i showed ocean forest alone with well water grew a ton of myco wothout innoculation.
In fact fox farm adds tons to happy frog as it has less organic material in it as it is their budget price alternative to ocean forest.
I've had Mg def when growing under LED grow lights. I used epsom salt to treat it (not calmag). For the past 3-4 years I've been using off-the-shelf products in a way similar to multi-bottle "lineups." I.e., I mix and match things to get NPK ratios, vary the organic sources of nutrients (fish emulsion one time, bat guano the next).
One thing I do is boost K through the entire grow. Langbeinite (sul-po-mag) contains K. Something I do in flower (getting to the point of magnesium) is use langbeinite a time or two to raise K. This adds some magnesium to the soil. Otherwise I'd use potassium sulfate ("sul-po" without the mag).
If I didn't do that, I'd probably add 1/4 tsp epsom salt a couple times to the nutrients (in early and mid flower). But, I don't use LED as much anymore, so maybe it's a non issue. I think I noticed the plants liked that (not every feeding. But, a couple times in flower).
I agree that "calmag" is treated like a magic potion. People give it every watering. (Not just a tiny amount to replace minerals in ro water. But, 5-10ml per feeding.). Maybe my two-times in flower epsom salt or langbeinite is a similar superstition.
+1 for mega cropThe dyna grow tests show K is needed more than nitrogen.
+1 for mega crop. Had to sneak that in there for ya.
Love it! Nothing wrong with botanicare.Yay bankrupted and re-invented same company!
Even their name is spam. Mega crop. Lol.
Im calling my company “Big F@ckin’ Plants”.
:)
Botanicare knew 30 years ago.
The dyna grow tests show K is needed more than nitrogen.
Love it! Nothing wrong with botanicare.
As a ratio, I try to do x-x-1.8 all the way through. Ex. 2-1-1.8 in veg; 1-1.5-1.8 in flower.
I've seem some schedules that produce a ratio: n-n-3 . Gen. Hydro's 3-part Flora Series does that in early veg (if you follow the full schedule -- not just the "3-2-1" teaspoon schedule printed on the 3 bottles). It's a ratio 3-1-3.3 in early veg.
I use Dyna Pro-Tekt for K in veg. You get more K for than Silica Blast. I used to use Silica Blast. But, then had to add a touch of potassium sulfate (from "alpha chem" on amazon or ebay). Using Pro-Tekt, I get the silica and K together. (In flower I use potassium sulfate, or occasionally langbeinite for the Mg.
I think more and more people are going to start seeing all that's needed is a good base nute and not so much of all this extra tinkering with lowing nitrogenIm not defending any of these companies. Lol. I only vouch for the base nutes. And only the grow bottle.
Pretty much what I run plus a small amount of monopotassium phosphate in flower.I believe in 2-1-3 all the way through. Just more or less as needed. The bottle i use is close. And in soil close is close enough.
Im sure i would tweak a bit in pure hydro. Makes more sense with direct uptake.
I believe in 2-1-3 all the way through. Just more or less as needed. The bottle i use is close. And in soil close is close enough.
Im sure i would tweak a bit in pure hydro. Makes more sense with direct uptake.
Do you notice that Botanicare still has a ton of PH buffering in it? I remember I used to have to dose the fuck out of down with it on tables. Just curious.
For Pure Blend Pro Grow
A 10 ml per gallon of my .3 ec 8.0 well water end up at about 6.3 ph with gh ph drops.
I think 15 was closer to 6.0 but it doesnt really matter in potting soil. I didnt need to keep phing the Kind Trio either. It was a bit more acidic.
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