Izzy1980
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Also I've added another picture and it's the the canopy with the buds growing up the stem , how do I know when when she is ready to harvest, I had add similar plants I grew a while back and and it ended up looking like something mutant and and was pretty impossible to smoke,
Sorry about the lights on pic,
Ive got this far reading your help info and reading grow diaries,
I'm just stuck with how to know when to harvest please, she's covered and covered with pistils (how can they be pistils if they are cloudy when grown?
What would you say, next waters tomorrow, would I just use water, nothing else next time, then next water just use minimum nutes,
PH has been steady 6ph-6.4ph, Could that help her, Im not experienced and think im going to lose her, any advice please
it something that cant be taught but has to be learned bro for sure,you called it ,i dont get the fert fab going on here recently,but folk way over doing it with the nitrogen in flower just my opinion,i like to keep mine on the low side so much easier when time comes to smoke,did he mention the soil he using ,i didnt see itI wouldnt water on a schedule. I lift the pots and only water if they are alarmingly light. With a probe moisture meter i like to see a dry reading 3/4 down the pot. Many say to check a couple knuckles deep at the top but the lower half of the pot may still be quite wet.
And with organic nutrients there may be a good surplus left in the soil if you have been fertilizing regularly. I would water only until i saw her leaves lightening up and they kind of look not so vibrant.
Hard to teach how to know what plants are telling us. But the goal is to only give what they need for best results. It is always challenging.
it something that cant be taught but has to be learned bro for sure,you called it ,i dont get the fert fab going on here recently,but folk way over doing it with the nitrogen in flower just my opinion,i like to keep mine on the low side so much easier when time comes to smoke,did he mention the soil he using ,i didnt see it
i think all the pic's say water only,heavy over dose of ferts,im with you a balanced diet to you know how to read is the best way,flower look good to me but them leaves ,shit looks like feeding straight N,probally what locking it all up causing the dryish crumbly leaves,nutrient providers have the right recipes ,they just want to sale more stuff and the recommend dose the say to use just burn stuff up,most dont even put concentrated on the bottles,so the newbie feeds as they recomend and burn um up,once that happensthey come here for whats wrong with my plant,thing is early in veg when this happens you can always just veg um a little longer were they recover and at there peak when you flip,if they flip without having a happy plant,the game is on for a whole lot of problems you already know that as i do,i flip mine at 16 in tall just because of space,but if i had any issue that hasnt meet my expections it gets chopped ,i have to many plates to fill to fight a problem child if you dig,but you called it dead nut broHe just said organic soil and ferts. I had a hard time learning how to fertilize properly and still screw up sometimes. I think organic soil and fertilizer is great but more difficult to control.
I am always thinking simple pro mix hp and a bottle of complete balanced nutes is the easiest way to learn his stuff.
Much harder to flush out mistakes in ammended potting soil and with even bottled organic nutes they can build up and cause problems.
But the op’s plants look pretty good. Just maybe a bit over fertilized. Do you think from the first pics that water only will do it?
That would be my recommendation. Do you have a PPM meter? Sampling the outflow can give you an idea of whats going on inside the soil. Changing Ph can also cause major issues in some situations, such as if you have a nutrient lockout situation from incorrect Ph, then you correct the Ph issue. Suddenly all of the previously unavailable nutrients are available, and it could be too much. This doesn't happen often but can occur in some circumstances. If you have good drainage, I would run a few gallons thru it to see how it reacts. From what I'm seeing, it might take a little while for the leaves to recover. Keep your eyes on the temps too. Leaf canoe'ing can be caused by high heat, but I think your problems are nutrient based.Im sure its nutes then, so how do I get her back on track is the question now, is it as simple as losing the nutes and using water for a couple of feeds (I only feed her when she's extemely light and dry, that seems to be every other day now) then just very slight fertz??
Im sure its nutes then, so how do I get her back on track is the question now, is it as simple as losing the nutes and using water for a couple of feeds (I only feed her when she's extemely light and dry, that seems to be every other day now) then just very slight fertz??
I do have a ppm meter, never used it and.I may sound dumb but I dont know how to???Depends what your runoff ppm looks like. Personally I'd want to see runoff coming out below 1000ppm, and if it's not I'd rinse until it did. Then I'd give it water only for a feed or two before reintroducing any nutrients.
If you cant measure runoff I'd use water only and water with plenty of runoff, like 25% or so for 2 or 3 waterings. But it would be best to know the runoff ppm.
I do have a ppm meter, never used it and.I may sound dumb but I dont know how to???
turn on and stick in the solution,it has either ppm or ec,ppm is what i use,ec is more acurite,the hold button is for when it stops registering hit hold and it will hold the reading until you hit button again,for recording the numbers and such,after you use it blow any moisture off and reading should be zero,thats itBought it cheap from Amazon due to finances
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