DGP
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Interesting, what size COBs fit? It seems like they would need to be smallish or do you just ditch the reflectors and use the regular size (like 24mm diameter)?
Dee
Interesting, what size COBs fit? It seems like they would need to be smallish or do you just ditch the reflectors and use the regular size (like 24mm diameter)?You can ditch the diodes and repurpose the heatsinks and drivers,slap a few quality cobs on the heatsink and turn them into great lights.
Check out growmau5 video on youT,ube,it's called Mars hack.i think he used cree 3590 cobs.every fixture is different but the drivers usually have numbers on them for volts and milliampsInteresting, what size COBs fit? It seems like they would need to be smallish or do you just ditch the reflectors and use the regular size (like 24mm diameter)?
Dee
Soon there's going to be a dedicated landfill just for shitty chinese led's:(
Cool I will check it out thanks!Check out growmau5 video on youT,ube,it's called Mars hack.i think he used cree 3590 cobs.every fixture is different but the drivers usually have numbers on them for volts and milliamps
Also to point out..Here is what I am talking about. Some clips of a Viparspectra "600 watt" LED system for $169. It calls out as 600 watts (I guess equivalent power to HID???) and it draws 269 watts from the outlet. At best it is a around 340 watts comparable power to an HID. It's coverage area for flower is said to be 2.5 X 2.5 but a 600w HID will cover almost a 4X4 area so 6.25 square feet instead of almost 16 square feet for an HPS lamp and reflector. For the same price a person could buy 3 of the COB assemblies and one Mean Well driver from cobkits.com and have at least 8 square feet of coverage at a higher intensity with better light spread. For less money a person could get an HPS and cover almost 3X the square footage.
Pre-Assemble Light engine and driver from Cobkits:
https://cobkits.com/product/meanwell-hlg-240h-54b-driver/
View attachment 785051
View attachment 785052
Also, look at the spectral output. It looks pretty bad and is missing a lot of light over the visible spectrum. No spec listed on color correctness of the light (but often these ads say "Full Spectrum"). COBs are typically 80 -95 CRI so they look very much like real white light. The 3000k look a little red shifted as they should for a flower light source. But with the Viparspectra when you add mostly red and mostly Blue output with not much in between, you get "blurple" (a weird looking purple that almost looks like visible parts of the UV segment).
On the coverage map they supply it really looks like you would be doing well to get a 2X2 grow area covered as the intensity tapers off very quickly. The advantage to a COB array is the light sources are spread out appropriately for the area they are designed to cover and with DIY you have control of that and fixtures can be built that are even adjustable in regards to spacing.
Attached are spectral charts for Luminous as well as Cree COBs. Also, attached are PDF spec sheets for both those COBs as well.
View attachment 785032
The specs form the add
View attachment 785033
View attachment 785036
Luminous CXM22 Spectral chart:
View attachment 785045
Cree Spectral Chart:
View attachment 785047
can you show us the lm80 test for vero ? or did that come from a diff light co ?Also to point out..
The spec sheet of the Viparspectra says lifetime 100,000 hours which is completely incorrect for their quoted "bridgelux and epiled" Chips. Most Cree SMD's only hit around 60k hours before they lose 20% of their output.
The only LED chips that I have seen have a LM95 (lose 5% of light by X hours) is Osram with a LM95 of 100,000 hours... Which are probably 6-10x more per chip than "epiled" which is equivalent for cheap generic LED chips.
I briefly looked to find the Lumen Maintenance data on the Bridgelux and a quick search did not give the full LM80 rating, however did show that within 6000hours of use, the bridgelux chips lost between 5-10% output.. in 6000 hours..
Just thought this was another "false" fact that these crap LED companies are lying about.
Also, their recommended coverage area must be fore growing wheat grass, because when you look at the par numbers, the very middle 1x1 square is hardly enough light to correctly illuminate flowering cannabis, let alone a 3x3 area.
To note.. the reason why brands like this are popular is they are sold on Am@zon.. and Am@zon has an affiliate program where you can earn money on goods that people purchase. If you go to "Goo#le and type in "top 10 LED grow lights" just about every single page that pulls up in the results, will be pushing brands like Viperspectra, and the almost certain way to know if they are making affiliate money, is 9 times out of 10 they will do a quick product review, show a photo, and then have a link, which brings you to the Am@zon page.
Keep this in mind if you ever are looking for product reviews online... if a page pulls up and links out to a Azon sellers page... chances are they are an affiliate trying to earn a commission.
Sure I will google it for you..(you know you could also do the same, not being a jerk, just real).can you show us the lm80 test for vero ? or did that come from a diff light co ?
Yeah I did search Goofle for a good 10 minutes before I asked you so we went from lm80 to lm70 still not bad but nowhere near cree on specs.and citizen has been caught fudging their numbers as well so as far as I'm concerned cree is still and probably always will be top doggySure I will google it for you..(you know you could also do the same, not being a jerk, just real).
LM70 (30% loss at X hours) for Vero is reported, by Bridgelux
Bridgelux projects that its family of Vero and VSeries LED Array products will deliver, on average,
greater than 70% lumen maintenance after 50,000 hours of operation at the rated forward test current.
This performance assumes constant current operation with case temperature maintained at or below 85̊C
with a nominal drive current in the Vero and VSeries product datasheet specifications
.
This will be a future project of mine for my mars hydro ufo and galaxy hydro 300. Haven't decides on doing cobs or Samsung strips yet though.You can ditch the diodes and repurpose the heatsinks and drivers,slap a few quality cobs on the heatsink and turn them into great lights.
This will be a future project of mine for my mars hydro ufo and galaxy hydro 300. Haven't decides on doing cobs or Samsung strips yet though.
Yeah I did search Goofle for a good 10 minutes before I asked you so we went from lm80 to lm70 still not bad but nowhere near cree on specs.and citizen has been caught fudging their numbers as well so as far as I'm concerned cree is still and probably always will be top doggy
But keep in mind with Vero if those numbers are even real lm70 @ 50k hours is for the test current and most diy projects are running below those currents so in reality they should see almost no losses over 7 or 8 years.unless of course you run your shit wide open on a 250mm heatsink haha.
You seem to know a bunch about COBs and I’m having a huge issue with light burn and slow growth but nothing to do with temps. I’ve got the COB setup I pictured below, honestly it has older COBs in it, CREE CXA2530, it’s got 6 COBs, its undimmable and has lenses. My power went off and I had to place my plants in the sun for a few hours, I noticed much more vigorous growth in the sun and once I placed my plants back under the COBs they slowed down to almost unnoticeable growth from yesterday. I had noticed leaf curl and some bleaching on my seedlings even at 75 degrees F. So I had raised it up but to the point I believe it’s almost unbeneficial to my seedlings (45”). I think my light is too intense for my seedlings at almost any height...since there are 6 COBs and theyre undimmable. So today I took the cover off my light and unplugged 3 of the 6 COBs...is this a good idea? Should I just take the lenses off all 6 and leave all 6 on or should I leave the lenses on the 3 and just leave those on? I’m pissed because I bought the WRONG LIGHT, DONT BUY AN OPTIC 6 light anyone...they SUCK! (For seedlings and veg they suck anyway). My plants are two weeks old and small af :( most of the growth came yesterday when I placed them in the sun! Spending so much $ for a piece of shit light is....sad lolHere is what I am talking about. Some clips of a Viparspectra "600 watt" LED system for $169. It calls out as 600 watts (I guess equivalent power to HID???) and it draws 269 watts from the outlet. At best it is a around 340 watts comparable power to an HID. It's coverage area for flower is said to be 2.5 X 2.5 but a 600w HID will cover almost a 4X4 area so 6.25 square feet instead of almost 16 square feet for an HPS lamp and reflector. For the same price a person could buy 3 of the COB assemblies and one Mean Well driver from cobkits.com and have at least 8 square feet of coverage at a higher intensity with better light spread. For less money a person could get an HPS and cover almost 3X the square footage.
Pre-Assemble Light engine and driver from Cobkits:
https://cobkits.com/product/meanwell-hlg-240h-54b-driver/
View attachment 785051
View attachment 785052
Also, look at the spectral output. It looks pretty bad and is missing a lot of light over the visible spectrum. No spec listed on color correctness of the light (but often these ads say "Full Spectrum"). COBs are typically 80 -95 CRI so they look very much like real white light. The 3000k look a little red shifted as they should for a flower light source. But with the Viparspectra when you add mostly red and mostly Blue output with not much in between, you get "blurple" (a weird looking purple that almost looks like visible parts of the UV segment).
On the coverage map they supply it really looks like you would be doing well to get a 2X2 grow area covered as the intensity tapers off very quickly. The advantage to a COB array is the light sources are spread out appropriately for the area they are designed to cover and with DIY you have control of that and fixtures can be built that are even adjustable in regards to spacing.
Attached are spectral charts for Luminous as well as Cree COBs. Also, attached are PDF spec sheets for both those COBs as well.
View attachment 785032
The specs form the add
View attachment 785033
View attachment 785036
Luminous CXM22 Spectral chart:
View attachment 785045
Cree Spectral Chart:
View attachment 785047
So why do they grow so vigorously when i put them in the sun, but basically stop once back inside the tent under my COBs? Could it be a cal mag deficiency? I’ve heard CObs need more of that in the nite regimen? Idk...ima newbie w coco/perlite 70/30 GH nutesI think your problem is soil related and not due to your COBs.
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