The droopy plant does look like it's getting too much light. Interveinal chlorosis could be due to too intense light, or it may need more magnesium in its diet. If you just recently watered, the drooping could be because of that. Plants usually recover in a few hours. The first thing I might do would be to reduce the light to see how the plant responds. What's the setting of the light and how far is it from the plant?Can somebody please help me?
Its a 350w spider farmer at 2' 1/2 feet I have it on 70%The droopy plant does look like it's getting too much light. Interveinal chlorosis could be due to too intense light, or it may need more magnesium in its diet. If you just recently watered, the drooping could be because of that. Plants usually recover in a few hours. The first thing I might do would be to reduce the light to see how the plant responds. What's the setting of the light and how far is it from the plant?
But it got really hot when I plugged in the GPS light. I was using a 100w. Then tried the hps for a day. I noticed the rise in temperature so I switched back to the 100w for a couple weeks till I got the spider farmer. I also don't have anything with alot of magnesium in using Gaia green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4. Mycorrhizal. I just got base A and base B it has magnesium nitrate.Its a 350w spider farmer at 2' 1/2 feet I have it on 70%
Its a 350w spider farmer at 2' 1/2 feet I have it on 70%
I’m in veg right now myselfI run spider farmers all day currently I have a 4500 a 3000 a 7000 all running in my grow I keep mine hung at 30 to 36 inches and I finished most of my runs at 70% output with their lights that’s high. You’re only still in veg too.
So look man sometimes it’s not just heat. It’s also light proximity You can have it be cold ambient but if your light is too close and too hot , it’ll still leave grill marks on your plants like their burgers and if you have it set with the output too high well you’ll have a bunch of plants that are hiding themselves from the light Like yours are your height is good I think at at least 30 inches. You should be fine but 70% output you’re cooking them, bro.But it got really hot when I plugged in the GPS light. I was using a 100w. Then tried the hps for a day. I noticed the rise in temperature so I switched back to the 100w for a couple weeks till I got the spider farmer. I also don't have anything with alot of magnesium in using Gaia green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4. Mycorrhizal. I just got base A and base B it has magnesium nitrate.
Its a 350w spider farmer at 2' 1/2 feet I have it on 70%
Oh well, I mean when it comes to Auto’s the skies of the limit in terms of time you could run them for 24 hours a day if you wanted to, but that being said back when I ran Auto‘s, I won’t touch them anymore, but when I ran them once upon a time, I ran them with 20 on four off Because I truly believe that plant human animal alike all need a moment to rest but more so than that when it comes to plants, they need to be able to transpire so 18 six is fine, but if you wanna pack a little bit more weight and flower, you might wanna crank that time up to 20 hours on 4 offThat's amazing how close you were. My biggest plant is at 29' inches blue skittlez pheno. The smallest ones are a little over a foot white widow pheno. 6 total and I have room for 8. I've been doing a combo of mainlining and LST. The big plant has 12 main top sites. The rest are at 8 main top sites. I was also debating recently on budding my plants because I came into a bunch of auto flower seeds a friend gave me. I started 2 AK47xIce gushers and was debating budding my phenos at 12-12 and after they finish and I bring more phenos in, then finishing the autos at 18-6 what do you think?
And when it comes to mainlining and topping man with Auto’s in particular, you should always stop earlyThat's amazing how close you were. My biggest plant is at 29' inches blue skittlez pheno. The smallest ones are a little over a foot white widow pheno. 6 total and I have room for 8. I've been doing a combo of mainlining and LST. The big plant has 12 main top sites. The rest are at 8 main top sites. I was also debating recently on budding my plants because I came into a bunch of auto flower seeds a friend gave me. I started 2 AK47xIce gushers and was debating budding my phenos at 12-12 and after they finish and I bring more phenos in, then finishing the autos at 18-6 what do you think?
Thank you. Some one told me to test ppms from run off. Are you able to explain that as well?And when it comes to mainlining and topping man with Auto’s in particular, you should always stop early
Because depending on the strain Auto can switch to flower relatively fast, you can see pre-flower pistils as early as three weeks after seedling stage is over. and the reason that’s an issue is because it’s a very stressful time in a plants life when it’s changing from vegetative to flower so if you were mainlining a plant or your topping it and it’s switching over to flower at the same time and it hasn’t had a chance to fully heal then there’s a greater chance of sexual anomalies popping out during flower, meaning hermaphroditic tendency is spurred along by compounded problems at swtch so eliminating these variables from the jump is best I try to allow for at least 10 days for healing going into flower
So generally speaking with Auto you’re on a shorten timeframe immediately. The moment that they sprout the clock is ticking with them, which doesn’t leave you an awful lot of room to get very handy in the LST topping and mainlining methodologies in order to get the most out of your grow area and your plants
With photo periods, you have all day long to right a wrong before you get into flower because you’re the master of your kingdom and you dictate when that happens with that ability its allowing you to triage your issues far in advance of flipping to flower. These are some of the benefits of leaving Auto’s alone.
But if you’re on a time crunch, Auto’s have their place
I just don’t think that intermediate or novice growers should really mess with them until they have an eye for nutrient, deficiencies or toxicities or climate related issues i.e. Lighting issues that look like nutrient, deficiencies, and vice versa knowing the difference there is key. It’s always better to be able to have a plant that you can correct and have all the time in the world to be able to do it so you can learn these things and see them coming from a mile away. Then once you have all that sorted out and you’re fundamentally a sound grower that’s when you should start fucking with Auto if you’re going to it all
Are you growing in Hydro soil or cocoa?Thank you. Some one told me to test ppms from run off. Are you able to explain that as well?
Then no, you don’t have to worry about PPM or PH in soil it’s already packed with buffers that will take the brunt of axcess acidic or alkaline levels in water. This is as long as your water source is normal. and as far as the PPM is concerned, that’s generally for Hydro and growing in coco. and the EC part the same. and since you’re only using worm castings for nitrogen definitely not because that’s not a very hyper rich or nutrient dense additive unless you’re using over 2 inches covering the entire top of your pots,Im using mother's earth soil with warm castings and cocoa as a top dress
I just had some left over from a friend and it makes it easier to top dress organic fertilizer I thinkThen no, you don’t have to worry about PPM or PH in soil it’s already packed with buffers that will take the brunt of axcess acidic or alkaline levels in water. This is as long as your water source is normal. and as far as the PPM is concerned, that’s generally for Hydro and growing in coco. and the EC part the same. and since you’re only using worm castings for nitrogen definitely not because that’s not a very hyper rich or nutrient dense additive unless you’re using over 2 inches covering the entire top of your pots,
What are you using the coco for?
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