LST too early?

Waxwingz · Apr 4, 2020

Hey everyone!

okay so I might have gotten some bad advise from a friend. I was told I could start training my plant from the stage I’m at now. Well I’m seeing now that I might have started a bit too early. I’ve had it like this all night and most of the day now and I was just curious if I have started too soon. If so then could I correct it or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for any advice, I’m trying not to helicopter parent these girls lol, proving difficult.

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Hey everyone!

okay so I might have gotten some bad advise from a friend. I was told I could start training my plant from the stage I’m at now. Well I’m seeing now that I might have started a bit too early. I’ve had it like this all night and most of the day now and I was just curious if I have started too soon. If so then could I correct it or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for any advice, I’m trying not to helicopter parent these girls lol, proving difficult.

I'm not sure why you feel you started too early. Can you elaborate a bit more?

I use lst techniques. I usually wait a bit longer but not a whole lot. My goal when I am doing this is to promote lateral growth and bush out the plant without losing time by topping and waiting for new vegetative growth. You can use lst for a lot of reasons. It's great for training a plant to fit a specific space.

I don't think you've hurt your plant if that's what you're asking but me personally, I wait a little bit longer.

Waxwingz · Apr 4, 2020

Thanks for the fast reply! Well I guess I’ve just seen it done later than when I’ve started and was just worried. I have a limited grow space and am trying to maximize yield. So I thought I would attempt to train it in a circle of sorts. Any suggestions?

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Thanks for the fast reply! Well I guess I’ve just seen it done later than when I’ve started and was just worried. I have a limited grow space and am trying to maximize yield. So I thought I would attempt to train it in a circle of sorts. Any suggestions?

A tomato hoop like people use when they top and mainline their plants. Scrog is another way to grow in limited space. You can lst through a scrog net. You've just got to decide how you want to use your space.

If you don't mind a longer vegetative stage, topping and mainlining is also a good way to grow in limited space.

MIMedGrower · Apr 4, 2020

I suggest first grow the plant straight and natural and flower when it is about half as tall as your max available height under the light. If it gets too tall then bend and tie her down and the side branches will come up and form more tops.

Then when you know what to expect more try other methods.

Just my opinion and i still grow like this today. Always got lower yield when inhibiting a young plant with training.

If they get too tall in veg and i dont have a spot in the flower room open i will top or bend them then.

Waxwingz · Apr 4, 2020

MIMedGrower said:
I suggest first grow the plant straight and natural and flower when it is about half as tall as your max available height under the light. If it gets too tall then bend and tie her down and the side branches will come up and form more tops.

Then when you know what to expect more try other methods.

Just my opinion and i still grow like this today. Always got lower yield when inhibiting a young plant with training.

If they get too tall in veg and i dont have a spot in the flower room open i will top or bend them then.

Would you undo the tie downs I have now?

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

MIMedGrower said:
I suggest first grow the plant straight and natural and flower when it is about half as tall as your max available height under the light. If it gets too tall then bend and tie her down and the side branches will come up and form more tops.

Then when you know what to expect more try other methods.

Just my opinion and i still grow like this today. Always got lower yield when inhibiting a young plant with training.

If they get too tall in veg and i dont have a spot in the flower room open i will top or bend them then.

I wait until my plant is about 8-10". You should see side branches growing out a bit by now. I will bend the top down just enough so the tallest side branch and the main stem are the same heights. I wait 24-48 hrs and then let it go back upright. Your main stem stays pretty much straight and you bush out the sides of the plant. I do this several times until I have most of the side branches and the main stem at the same heights. In this grow, bending has improved 10 of my 11 plants. My 11th is a photoperiod behaving as an auto so it's had a mind of it's own from day 1. I don't expect much of a yield from it. The others? I am certain I improved my yield.

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Would you undo the tie downs I have now?

Yes. Personally I would wait another week or two before considering bending and lst methods.

Waxwingz · Apr 4, 2020

Okay so I guess I got ahead of myself. Removed the ties, and just going to let her grow a while. She’s a bit wonky but I’m sure will recover.

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

I think she's young enough she'll straighten out just fine. I had to go back and look at the picture again. It's smaller than I thought. It's a seedling still. I don't start bending until it's developed a root system and it's spent a couple weeks in vegetative growth.

MIMedGrower has a good point in keeping things simple. The most common mistake is trying to do too much.

MIMedGrower · Apr 4, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Would you undo the tie downs I have now?

Yes because the plant will lay right across the dirt. When i top or bend my plants are at least a foot tall or more. You have to figure your own space and methods. It takes trial and error.

Oh gosh · Apr 4, 2020

Experiment with one and see if you like the results. She just looks odd because of the pot size. Once you up-pot and top I think you'll be happy. Soild advice above. Additionally, if the stems continue to be red/purple bring your ph down a tenth or 2 til you see desired affect. Looking good.

Waxwingz · Apr 4, 2020

Thanks everyone for the advice, I’ll be letting her stand back up. I used some crap soil with added nutrients. So I’ll be transplanting into ffof and hopefully that’ll help ph wise. Plus I’ll be trying to use distilled water or rain water. Also ordered some ph tests for the run off testing. Not planing on adding nutrients for a while after transplanting. Any suggestions or advice for my first grow from here on out would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

MIGrampaUSA · Apr 4, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Thanks everyone for the advice, I’ll be letting her stand back up. I used some crap soil with added nutrients. So I’ll be transplanting into ffof and hopefully that’ll help ph wise. Plus I’ll be trying to use distilled water or rain water. Also ordered some ph tests for the run off testing. Not planing on adding nutrients for a while after transplanting. Any suggestions or advice for my first grow from here on out would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ✌

I'd add some extra perlite to that ... a good draining soil is a must.

PipeCarver · Apr 5, 2020

Waxwingz said:
Thanks everyone for the advice, I’ll be letting her stand back up. I used some crap soil with added nutrients. So I’ll be transplanting into ffof and hopefully that’ll help ph wise. Plus I’ll be trying to use distilled water or rain water. Also ordered some ph tests for the run off testing. Not planing on adding nutrients for a while after transplanting. Any suggestions or advice for my first grow from here on out would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ✌

I use a cheap promix type peat based medium without problems. I think too much is made out of soil types, I want a medium without nutes so I know what Its getting by my nutes alone.

I find it too hard to top when the plants are small and I end up cutting the tops of the new shoots slowing down their growth. So I top when there's enough space to do so without clipping the shoots.

For knowing when to start feeding a ppm meter $15 Amazon will give you an idea of what your plants are growing in. If the numbers are low you can start adding nutes and keep track of it as they grow.

A PH gauge is better than paper imho ($15) amazon. Strips are too hard to read accurately

I transplant when the pots are mostly dry then water or feed as they need after transplanting. They don't miss a beat and no shock is evident.

I tie them down when the branches are long enough to reach the sides of the pot then keep tightening as needed to spread them out.

detroitjoe · Apr 5, 2020

Looks good, bury her higher when transplanting..

ALIV · Apr 5, 2020

I personally top around that stage or a skip later. I then wait for nodes to grow just a bit, top the two tops again, then start my fim, lst/super crop method. Usually pull 1g/watt using this method.

Waxwingz · Apr 5, 2020

Thanks guys!

I’ll be waiting till after transplanting to train her. I can see a few tip of roots starting to come out the bottom. When should i transplant? I’ve heard once the plant is the size of the starting pot.

LST too early?

LST too early?

Waxwingz

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