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(Macro grow)First time veg under LED / Coir HELP!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kgunge
  • Start date Start date Jun 8, 2021
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(Macro grow)First time veg under LED / Coir HELP!

Kgunge Jun 8, 2021 32 Replies 6,559 Views
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Kgunge

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#1
Hello, I have a room with 22 gavita LEDs with plants in 2 gal coco / perlite containers. They are about 2 weeks out of the cloner now.
•room temps : 82f , leaf temp 79f, rH 70-60%, no c02 at this point as we are repairing our NG burner.
•lights are at 60% giving off an average of 200-350 PPFD, lights are 5 feet away from the plants.
•They are also on 18:6 schedule being fed Mills nutrients at about 0.8 EC (770ppm 7)
Im not sure what is happening to be honest I feel super stuck… I have been feeding them 500ml every 2-3 days
 

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Kgunge

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#2
i have read all of @aquamans coco thread and I’m leaning on this being a LED issue mixed with feeding regime. I have this feeling that I should be feeding more frequently lower EC but this goes against everything I was taught when first learning and for some reason I can’t shake this uneasy feeling off.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
 
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Kgunge

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#3
Kgunge said:
i have read all of @aquamans coco thread and I’m leaning on this being a LED issue mixed with feeding regime. I have this feeling that I should be feeding more frequently lower EC but this goes against everything I was taught when first learning and for some reason I can’t shake this uneasy feeling off.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
My hypothesis is that the LED spectrum is calling for a bit more food than I’m used to growing under HPS/MTH.
Also any tips on posting / navigating on this site would be helpful lol I might’ve posted on the wrong forum I usually get responses <\3

@Aqua Man
 
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Aqua Man

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#4
Hey brother so a few things here... they are way way way to dry.... fill the pots to the top of you can and always in the future.

I'll post a couple links to read rather than ramble here then just post after and we can through the rest like ppm ph etc. They are definitely hungry but that could be for a few different reasons. There also needs some adjust ment for co2 as it lowers transpiration rates so humidity Imo is to high and you may need a slight increase in concentration but the real problem is watering here.

HOW TO WATER COCO FOR BEST RESULTS.

Ok writing this cause i see this issue often and rather have a thread to link than explain this each time. This is not my work but a collection of info from many members here and I have put into practice myself. So first off COCO is NOT soil. For best results we want to keep it saturated...
www.thcfarmer.com

Marijuana Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it

Discuss different watering methods for growing your own weed from seeds. Our community members give helpful tips on how pot size and material, as well as environmental factors affect growing cannabis.
www.thcfarmer.com
 
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Aqua Man

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#5
Also pull those bottom leaves and fill the pots to the top.
 
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Aqua Man

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#6
Also we will go over some VPD stuff and the reason your leaf temps are a bit higher than normal... by that I mean for LED a 3f difference is a bit of an indication of poor transpiration. It's all related to water stress imo but I can explain how if ya like so you understand my recommendation.
 
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LexLuthor

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#7
Your EC conversion doesn't add up correctly. 1 EC should be either 500 ppm or 700 ppm depending on the scale, so 0.8 EC on a .7 scale would be 560 ppm.

Besides that, I think increasing fertigation frequency would be beneficial. Check the runoff EC next time you irrigate, it's probably sky high.
 
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Aqua Man

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#8
LexLuthor said:
Your EC conversion doesn't add up correctly. 1 EC should be either 500 ppm or 700 ppm depending on the scale, so 0.8 EC on a .7 scale would be 560 ppm.

Besides that, I think increasing fertigation frequency would be beneficial. Check the runoff EC next time you irrigate, it's probably sky high.
Click to expand...
Yeah noticed that too... should be about 400ppm At 0.8 EC if 500 scale.
 
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LexLuthor

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#9
Aqua Man said:
Yeah noticed that too... should be about 400ppm At 0.8 EC if 500 scale.
Click to expand...

Either scale, 0.8 EC doesn't seem too high, especially for established clones. You think the main issue is underwatering? There may be other issues at hand, but things would probably start to look better if he fertigated daily?

I never used straight coco with perlite before, I use peat and perlite (with 10% coco), but I'm in solo cups and I just started to water everyday from 0.6 EC to 0.8 EC and they are half the size of his plants. I know peat based media can benefit more from dry periods, but coco needs to be saturated everyday once plants are somewhat established, right?
 
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Aqua Man

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#10
LexLuthor said:
Either scale, 0.8 EC doesn't seem too high, especially for established clones. You think the main issue is underwatering? There may be other issues at hand, but things would probably start to look better if he fertigated daily?

I never used straight coco with perlite before, I use peat and perlite (with 10% coco), but I'm in solo cups and I just started to water everyday from 0.6 EC to 0.8 EC and they are half the size of his plants. I know peat based media can benefit more from dry periods, but coco needs to be saturated everyday once plants are somewhat established, right?
Click to expand...
Yeah if anything 600ppm or maybe even 800ppm due to co2. Also a lower humidity and 100% needs to be watered more often with runoff. One concern for me would be the pots not fully filled but none the less they can easily be topped up and roots will form if properly watered.
 
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Kgunge

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#11
Aqua Man said:
Yeah if anything 600ppm or maybe even 800ppm due to co2. Also a lower humidity and 100% needs to be watered more often with runoff. One concern for me would be the pots not fully filled but none the less they can easily be topped up and roots will form if properly watered.
Click to expand...
What room temp , rh and LST levels would you recommend for the room then? I thought my problem was the rH being too low sitting at 60 for the most part fluctuating maybe( +\- 5).
I don’t have any c02 right now like I said I need to repair my burner , so with that being said , transpiration would slow down how would translate that into an action for me to help these young ladies ? I’m on board with feeding more frequently , I’ll test that out as it goes against how I was taught but yes that makes sense to me. Basically I guess I’ll just need to understand the environment under LEDs
 
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Kgunge

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#12
Aqua Man said:
Also we will go over some VPD stuff and the reason your leaf temps are a bit higher than normal... by that I mean for LED a 3f difference is a bit of an indication of poor transpiration. It's all related to water stress imo but I can explain how if ya like so you understand my recommendation.
Click to expand...


Yes please explain ! I do understand the terminology but need to better understand how it translates into an action
 
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Kgunge

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#13
What do you think of this @Aqua Man
 

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Anthem

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#14
Those plants are experiencing lock out, all the VPD and RH and room temperatures are not going to make them any better without first addressing the nutrient issues
 
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Kgunge

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#15
Anthem said:
Those plants are experiencing lock out, all the VPD and RH and room temperatures are not going to make them any better without first addressing the nutrient issues
Click to expand...
Lockout due to what ? The EC I’ve been feeding at is rather mild. Maybe from not frequent enough feeding but thst will be corrected so with that corrected , next would be environmental. No?
 
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Aqua Man

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#16
My suggestion is remove the dead leaves from the bottom fill the pots up.

Water based on the coco thread runoff values. Absolutely your biggest issue. And record the ph and ppm or the runoff daily. It's likely a bit high on ppm already. Runoff is imperative and so is proper fertigation frequency.

Increase ppm to 600.

Lower humidity to 60%

Lower room temps temporarily to reach 75f leaf temps until they recover.

Reducing lighting for 3-5 days.
 
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Greenjourneyman

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#17
I’m super new compared to aqua man. But I had some of that neon discoloration do to acidic pH. Lock out sets in quick when they have acid poisoning. It’s a simple thing, but do you adjust for pH after adding nutes or before?
 
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Kgunge

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#18
Greenjourneyman said:
I’m super new compared to aqua man. But I had some of that neon discoloration do to acidic pH. Lock out sets in quick when they have acid poisoning. It’s a simple thing, but do you adjust for pH after adding nutes or before?
Click to expand...
Yes absolutely I do. I make about 50gal at a time , liquid nutrients with filtered water and PH solution at the end of the mix to 5.8 ph
 
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Kgunge

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#19
Aqua Man said:
My suggestion is remove the dead leaves from the bottom fill the pots up.

Water based on the coco thread runoff values. Absolutely your biggest issue. And record the ph and ppm or the runoff daily. It's likely a bit high on ppm already. Runoff is imperative and so is proper fertigation frequency.

Increase ppm to 600.

Lower humidity to 60%

Lower room temps temporarily to reach 75f leaf temps until they recover.

Reducing lighting for 3-5 days.
Click to expand...

On it as we speak. I’ll keep the thread updated.
 
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Kgunge

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#20
Aqua Man said:
My suggestion is remove the dead leaves from the bottom fill the pots up.

Water based on the coco thread runoff values. Absolutely your biggest issue. And record the ph and ppm or the runoff daily. It's likely a bit high on ppm already. Runoff is imperative and so is proper fertigation frequency.

Increase ppm to 600.

Lower humidity to 60%

Lower room temps temporarily to reach 75f leaf temps until they recover.

Reducing lighting for 3-5 days.
Click to expand...

Would you feed even if it’s as saturated as in this photo? The wet pot was fed 2 days ago. I have been feeding daily one half and the other half I haven’t just to be safe.
 

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Replies 32
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Started Jun 8, 2021
Latest post Jun 30, 2021
Starter Kgunge
Forum Coco Coir

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