RIVAL79 said:

That shit happened last year, bro. I'm killing right now with Soil beds of Sour Pebbles and White OG. Stop by the Funk Lab when u get a chance.

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RIVAL79 said:

R u still running them Dual Arc Bulbs?

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Will do, I took a look for a second earlier but just saw a bunch of pics from some other farmer, lol.

No more Dual-Arcs, not since early 2012 actually, those things were no good with my ballasts or something, blew out more times than I remember. I did 1 grow with just Duals in both hoods, then 2 grows running a dual-arc side by side with an HPS in the same room, but no overlapping footprint, and the HPS was providing better performance in all categories other than looking natural. I've been running just HPS for flowering and MH for veg now. I do throw them under the 1000w HPS for the last week of veg, but thats more for the intensity boost, since my MH is only 400w.

nMEEKS said:

Will do, I took a look for a second earlier but just saw a bunch of pics from some other farmer, lol.

No more Dual-Arcs, not since early 2012 actually, those things were no good with my ballasts or something, blew out more times than I remember. I did 1 grow with just Duals in both hoods, then 2 grows running a dual-arc side by side with an HPS in the same room, but no overlapping footprint, and the HPS was providing better performance in all categories other than looking natural. I've been running just HPS for flowering and MH for veg now. I do throw them under the 1000w HPS for the last week of veg, but thats more for the intensity boost, since my MH is only 400w.

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That's my boy JDub. Go back a few pages, bro. I got some pics posted up the other day.

I was just wondering about the bulbs. I been thinking about goin back to my 600w HPS. I think I got better yields.

RIVAL79 said:

That's my boy JDub. Go back a few pages, bro. I got some pics posted up the other day.

I was just wondering about the bulbs. I been thinking about goin back to my 600w HPS. I think I got better yields.

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I was definitely seeing higher yields under my HPS compared with the duals, and I still haven't managed to break my old gpw-ratio from when I ran 600w before this setup, they are just so efficient.








Photo update for all you Farmers tonight! These were taken just a couple hours ago, day 27 flowering for the ladies. Same recipe, same results. I hope you enjoy the pics!



White Master Kush (Ivory Cut):











Alien Grenades (Sprite Cut):








-Meeks:snaphappy:

Love it. Sprite cut... Those ladies look perfect.

pdxfire said:

Love it. Sprite cut... Those ladies look perfect.

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They are super happy right now, especially now that I got some zip-ties to pull the lights up to their highest position. These girls stretched SO much! Some gained over 12 inches between internodes (true stretch) plus most gained about 10 inches of new top node growth since flip. . . for a total height growth of 22" or more on some tops of the WMK!

The Sprite cut I named based on its growing aroma. Even in veg this plant has a very pleasant mild lemon-lime smell with a ton of sweetness to it, and when I bump the tray of flowering girls the room is just filled with the smell of Sprite it seems. I hope the name isn't already taken by another AGR cut, wouldn't want any confusion.

Thanks for stoppin' by PDX, I hope you are well!

thanks for the detailed info. always something to learn from you.

I don't think sprite is taken. It is in his description of the keeper! "Now hit with the Tahoe Alien pollen to make the Alien Grenades, expect tighter, hand grenade nugs with more OG density and Alien frosting, while maintaining the long Sweet & Sour D flower structure...search for the phenos that resemble the mom with her towering colas, but exhibit sour OG candy fuel goodness in the smell and taste, and a strange effervescence of sprite and 7-up left in your nose after smelling her. That will be your keeper.

glad too see this thread back rolling again

Will using mh during the first few weeks of 12/12 help with stretch?
Do you think this recipe you are using will make it through coco from start to finish with no deficiencies? Or do you plan on tweaking?

Also what does the gypsum add to the coco?

Youve definitely got me wanting to make my own nutes from your results.

Impressive as always, thanks!

pdxfire said:

thanks for the detailed info. always something to learn from you.

I don't think sprite is taken. It is in his description of the keeper! "Now hit with the Tahoe Alien pollen to make the Alien Grenades, expect tighter, hand grenade nugs with more OG density and Alien frosting, while maintaining the long Sweet & Sour D flower structure...search for the phenos that resemble the mom with her towering colas, but exhibit sour OG candy fuel goodness in the smell and taste, and a strange effervescence of sprite and 7-up left in your nose after smelling her. That will be your keeper.

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I knew the Sprite name was in the back of my mind for some reason, of course it's from the genetics description!

drknockbootz said:

glad too see this thread back rolling again

Will using mh during the first few weeks of 12/12 help with stretch?
Do you think this recipe you are using will make it through coco from start to finish with no deficiencies? Or do you plan on tweaking?

Also what does the gypsum add to the coco?

Youve definitely got me wanting to make my own nutes from your results.

Impressive as always, thanks!

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Hey DrKB, you're better off manipulating your environment to reduce stretch, rather than your light spectrum. A good place to start would be reducing the difference between your day and night temps. Raising your humidity is another good solution.

I have been running this recipe since late last year, with varying concentrations, feel free to scan through any picture in this thread, every plant was grown start to finish with this recipe. So to more directly answer your question, no, I do not plan to tweak anything :)

The Gypsum brings a couple things to the table. First, calcium is more readily available to my root system. Second, the sulfur helps to keep my pH in the more acidic range of coco's buffer zone (5.6-6.0). . . Or at the very least, makes me feel good about adding something other than pure coco to my pots!

Dry salts are great, and substantially more affordable, but you're not making your own nutrients with this recipe, you're just not paying someone else to add water for you and it doesn't come with a pretty picture or cool name, but it's the same stuff without the fluff. I hope you give it a go!

Great idea with the gypsum nMeeks! This is over my head, but this help with "cal/mg deficiency" because the sulfur (sulfuric acid) will help break down any bonded calcium correct?

Picked me up some white urkel since the wss has been out of stock! Thanks for all the great info! Looks like there is quite a show coming up in here! (grabs popcorn)

Peace!
P-

Patanjali said:

Great idea with the gypsum nMeeks! This is over my head, but this help with "cal/mg deficiency" because the sulfur (sulfuric acid) will help break down any bonded calcium correct?

Picked me up some white urkel since the wss has been out of stock! Thanks for all the great info! Looks like there is quite a show coming up in here! (grabs popcorn)

Peace!
P-

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Thanks P, the Gypsum actually helps with avoiding calcium deficiency because it is a direct source of calcium, Gypsum = Calcium Sulfate (CaSO4). You will like the White Urkle, decent variety, but all colorful and frosty! And the show is just getting started, the buds are noticeably bigger everyday right now, the next update should have some colas starting to take shape!

Good Evening Farmers! I have a brief update for you tonight, with any questions welcome of course!




. . .But first, cheers to anyone else smoking!










So I would like to note that I have cut my irrigation back to once per day at this point in flowering, something I should have done early in week 4 around the time the last photos were taken. I bumped the run time of the single irrigation up a bit, but there was a decrease in total volume of water applied.

Overall I am happy with the way this crop is going, but there are some parts of it that reflect the reduced attention I have given these girls.

Anyways, enough typing, here are the photos I took today on day 36:





WMK (Ivory Cut):



















AGR (Sprite Cut):











I hope you enjoy!




-Meeks:cool:

Hey meeks I was wondering whats your reason for not incorporating inputs such as : fulvics/humics, kelp, triacontanol , amino etc?
Your grows are about as simple as they get, but your results are great!

drknockbootz said:

Hey meeks I was wondering whats your reason for not incorporating inputs such as : fulvics/humics, kelp, triacontanol , amino etc?
Your grows are about as simple as they get, but your results are great!

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Great question DrKB, there are a couple reasons why. First, I decided last year that I would be focusing on my baseline fertilizer program until I had it dialed in completely with the rest of my system. Sometime in the future I might test bio-stimulants and other inputs of the sort, but only once I feel as though I have a firm grasp on what my different strains are capable of on their own with proper nutrition. Second, the true scientific results are just not definitive enough with many of these products to justify their cost at this time.

hey meeks
I clone using rooter plugs and Ive noted from you that cloning powder/gel is not necesssary
I was wondering whats the perfect environment for clones?
How often do you mist if you mist? Vents closed or open
Basically your cloning regimen

I havent had any problems cloning I get a good success rate, but I am looking for more consistancy of vigorous cuts vs non vigorous

drknockbootz said:

hey meeks
I clone using rooter plugs and Ive noted from you that cloning powder/gel is not necesssary
I was wondering whats the perfect environment for clones?
How often do you mist if you mist? Vents closed or open
Basically your cloning regimen

I havent had any problems cloning I get a good success rate, but I am looking for more consistancy of vigorous cuts vs non vigorous

Click to expand...

The ideal environment for clones is very high relative humidity (decreasing slowly with root development), low light (increasing slightly during root development), and bottom heat (decreasing during root development).

The goal of the high relative humidity (as close to 100% as you can get) is to prevent any amount of water loss from the clone once its been cut. So as a less-than-ideal alternative to keeping your cuttings in a fog-like condition, many growers choose to intermittently mist their clones. The down side to this is that repeated foliar misting during rooting is proven to cause nutrient deficiencies by leaching from the leaves, and commercial trials with incorporating a light fertilizer solution into the mist were only moderately successful. Still, this is the dominant method, so it is important to know that the goal is to mist as often as is required to prevent the leaf surface from drying out. Once the cutting has begun to develop a callus and is beginning to root, the misting can gradually decrease in frequency until the cuttings are rooted and ready for planting. This helps prevent the chance of disease with prolonged standing water and begins to tone or harden the plants for the lower humidity/no mist environment after planting.

The goal of the low light is to reduce stress on the newly cut clone that have no current source of water or nutrients without roots. 1000-1500 foot-candles is all that is required early in the cloning process, moving up to 2500-3000fc gradually before they are fully rooted and ready for transplant. This helps them harden off in preparation for more intense light, and gives them more energy to use as they begin to uptake water and nutrients again. (Foot-candles are equal to lumens per square foot.)

And the goal of the bottom heat is to direct and maintain the plants activity in the root formation zone of the cutting. Plants processes are sped up and slowed down by temperature, so by keeping the root zone 6 or 7 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than the air temperature you are able to slow the growth/energy expended in the foliage, while keeping the lower cut stem actively working towards new root development. Toning the bottom heat back towards the end again helps with hardening the plant for its more stressful environment to come and reduces the risk of root diseases that do better in warm conditions.

My cloning regime attempts to do these 3 things as best I can, but would be less valuable to copy than simply understanding my goals and figuring out the best way to accomplish them in your own setup.

And on the note of cloning gels, while I do not personally use them, they are often a useful tool to help aid in successful propagation so I do not discourage their use. The plant generates enough of the hormone Auxin in the apical meristem (the growing point in the tip of each shoot) to promote root development on its own, but it takes time for that hormone to flow from the tip of the cutting down to the point where you cut it. Then the auxin needs to pool up at the cut base to a certain concentration before it provokes new root development. While this occurs eventually, you can simply dip the base of your cutting in a synthetic auxin (rooting gel), and get the roots going right then. If you are looking for the highest vigor, a cloning gel might be a valuable crutch in a less-than-perfect cloning environment. The cloning gel does not increase the vigor, it simply decreases the time spent in a stressful environment before roots begin to form.

Long winded answer, but I hope it helps. Thanks for bringing the questions DrKB, good luck cloning!

Nice diary & show mr. meeks..

nmeeks looking stellar as usual brother! Got Q for you, would adding an extra hr of daylight cause a delayed ripening time?

Don Peppy said:

Nice diary & show mr. meeks..

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Thanks Don Peppy!

jlr42024 said:

nmeeks looking stellar as usual brother! Got Q for you, would adding an extra hr of daylight cause a delayed ripening time?

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Hey JLR, thank you for the kind words. In regards to your question, there is a critical length of an uninterrupted dark period for flowering to not only begin, but continue to occur properly. Increasing your day length while maintaining the required 12 hour night in an artificial environment like an indoor grow that isn't limited by our 24 hour day is an interesting idea, if that is what you were getting at! I would be surprised if there isn't some research done on this subject out there to be found with some digging, let me know if you find anything credible. I would recommend against running a 13/11 lights on/off schedule however.

Ok thanks again for your response I'll definitely let you know if I can find anything.

Good Evening Farmers!

Yesterday's Photos:

White Master Kush ~ two weeks until harvest:



Alien Grenades ~ three weeks until harvest:





-Meeks