No. Same 4 100 watt mars hydros in here. Different strains every time alsoHave you changed anything else? New light? Was the strain grown the other two runs?
The top dressing I use between runs is Dr earth. His 2-2-2 dry amendment. I occasionally throw in banana peels and whatnot for the wormsHave you changed anything else? New light? Was the strain grown the other two runs?
CO2 is also supplemented to 1500ppm start to finish except when lights are off it goes down to 600Have you changed anything else? New light? Was the strain grown the other two runs?
That was next on the list!@Mikedin is the living soil go to hope he can help
Okay thank you I will reach out@Mikedin is the living soil go to hope he can help
Heck yeah lol. Sweet I'll send my predicament that way. Thank you for the prompt responses.That was next on the list!thanks homie!
Yes I do but it's been probably 5 cycles since. My well water is slightly alkaline at 7.6 ph and it's water only I wouldn't have suspected the soil to go acidic. I'll have to look more into that topicNo idea, do you add lime because they have a habit of going acidic after a few uses indoors.
Maybe a soil analysis to skip some of the guesswork? I know I’ve seen some people on here talk about that, but I’ve got this memory problem when I get high and can’t remember whoYes I do but it's been probably 5 cycles since. My well water is slightly alkaline at 7.6 ph and it's water only I wouldn't have suspected the soil to go acidic. I'll have to look more into that topic
I am aware of soil analysis options but I much rather old school figure it out amongst the communityMaybe a soil analysis to skip some of the guesswork? I know I’ve seen some people on here talk about that, but I’ve got this memory problem when I get high and can’t remember who
Hmm, right off the bat it dosent seem like a mag issue to me, i wouldn’t expect such even coverage of the leaf coloration, iron came to mind as well, I believe it starts at the top newer growth, it is a possibilityI am aware of soil analysis options but I much rather old school figure it out amongst the community
Yeah I’m a tapper, I run straight tap water but I run it through a chlorine / VOC in line filter (probably dosent do Jack but water tastes better though it been doing it for years lol) I still let it sit out but only because I fill my 5 gallon jugs as soon as I use em, my outdoor while still in organics I just give water right out the hose, I haven’t tested PH in years now but being 20-24 cycles in it’s possible, something’s is off, the rhizosphere should be able to adequately adjust PH regardless before it’s uptaken by the plant but it’d be interesting to see what a slurry test or soil analysis says after that many runs.Water pH is irrelevant, you need to know ppms and breakdown of each element.
A pH of 8.0 with a ppm of 70 isn't going to make any difference to your soil pH.
A PH of 6.2 with a ppm of 400 will probably cause certain elements to build up notably calcium carbonate.
Alkalinity tells a better story than PH on its own.
People who pH reverse osmosis water are in for a big shock when they work this out lol
Why not just start again with new soil, you had a good run with this one sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeezeYeah I’m a tapper, I run straight tap water but I run it through a chlorine / VOC in line filter (probably dosent do Jack but water tastes better though it been doing it for years lol) I still let it sit out but only because I fill my 5 gallon jugs as soon as I use em, my outdoor while still in organics I just give water right out the hose, I haven’t tested PH in years now but being 20-24 cycles in it’s possible, something’s is off, the rhizosphere should be able to adequately adjust PH regardless before it’s uptaken by the plant but it’d be interesting to see what a slurry test or soil analysis says after that many runs.
That would be OP’s choice (you mighta mistaken me as the original poster)Why not just start again with new soil, you had a good run with this one sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze
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