excellent information. I lost quite a few seeds when I started and couldn't figure out my germ problems. I think you nailed it with the fungus gnats eating them. Some would pop and never go beyond that some never popped at all. The h2o2 came from that time as I thought it was fungus killing my seeds. Since moving to this method I've been 100% germ. Probably because I got rid of the fungus gnats tho. Either way don't be discouraged and find what works for you brotha!Good afternoon fellow cultivars ! ! ! !
What I would like to add (in terms of the low seed germination rate) is the very real possibility of fungas gnats eating your seeds AFTER planting them in soil. The unfortunate thing is you won't really know unless you've dug up the first few thin layers of soil ABOVE the seed to actually SEE the damage.
I have plenty of grows under the ever largening belt and the one constant in seedlings not ever breaking the soil's surface has been fungas gnats eatin' 'em up.....dont get discouraged and dont get too disturbed by it to prevent you from keep trying.......
If you plan on popping more beans - it'd be wise to basically "steam" the soil BEFORE putting a seed in it (and letting it cool off of course).....it doesnt matter if the seed has a radicle the size of a donkeys' dick - it'll get eaten alive within an half hour if planting in soil where FG larvae may be present (yes-EVEN in a bag of Fox Farms or whatever soil company's name is on the bag) ....
Steaming the soil WILL INDEED kill off any beneficial microbes BUT the seedling should have enough"stored" food within them (inside the seed) to get off to a good start - even in a "steamed clean" soil environment.
The very small amount of soil needed to get a plant off in an infant stage wont make a difference (in terms of foods available in it) if starting in a sterile infantile soil stage.
I have racked my brain and cant think of any other reason the beans are not popping....
Another huge note.....DO NOT BELEIEVE THE HYPE THAT A SEED WONT GROW IF IT NEVER DROPPED A TAPROOT WHILE IN WATER.....I have a VERY successful grow that was VERY well documented using seeds that not only NEVER shot out a tap root while submerged in H20 - but also NEVER shot a taproot when further subjecting them to the paper towel soak method (and no-I have not ever used H2O2 in my soak water).... I actually named those plants with an NS/NCO suffix to know for sure.....as NS/NCO was an acronym for Never Sank/Never Came Out (referring to the taproot/radicle that a lot of growers use to indicate if a seed is/was viable or not).
Im confident that a lot of other cultivars (if they actually went further than the initial non-dropping of seeds in water and no tap root present when planting the seed) would chime in in the affirmative.....
Just a note to keep you in positive spirits to KEEP you from THINKING you've gone wrong somewhere....m
.sometimes Nature actually beats us although we've given it our best attempts to mimick....
Subbed ! ! ! !
I am growing it under a screen now so i am not sure how tall or bushy it is but it's an about average size for my closet. I have two phenos of it one seems like 7 or 8 weeks the other a bit longer to finish.It's nice and frosty not sure about pain relief. Look for a high CBT strain for pain.I made some bubble hash from some of it I double boiled 2 grams of it in 4 table spoons of coconut oil for an hour and a half,it made good tasting peanut butter cookies that wore a heavy body high,one cookie high two will knock you on your ass.
i was even careful.. and the damn thing still ended up on the side.. hah i will get one to grow from the middle of a solo cup yet.It's nice to hear you have a few more poppin.the bottom vents allow air in as you pull air out of a top vent with your inline fan. think of it as moving air fresh air in the bottom hot air out the top.
what timers do you guys use. not that i will have the money to buy it now.. but ill need a upgrade before flower ithink..
hey @rmoltis im gonna start main lining today, you ready for the baby from hell. LOL, just teasing.. :D
chris.
View attachment 677728
The Titan Controls Apollo® 4 is specifically designed for use with today’s high in-rush lighting ballasts. This is achieved by installing a ‘ballast rated’ relay vs. the standard mechanical switch that is used in conventional 24 hour appliance timers. It features a precision German built 24 hour clock, quality enclosure and timer cover that resists dust and moisture. Assure the success of your plants by having the best lighting control in the market today. Dependability is critical in a lighting timer and failure is not an option!™. So use the right tool for the right job…the Apollo® 4. 10 Amp maximum/120 Volts/60 Hz./1000 Watts.
This is what I use.
It is the only timer that won't melt because it has a ballast rated relay.
Plugs right into your ballast.
View attachment 677729
so something like this correct.. for the price its worth it.
after of a week fucking with this china digital thing that i think cant keep time worth a fuck. laughs.
chris.
yeah the generic PC plug in.. yupp thats the one my LED Light has.I will plug it into one of my t5 fixtures and see If it works 1st later today at lights on
You will just need to make sure your led lights have this plug in for connection to the timer (left one)
View attachment 677734
thank you. i ordered one.I'm assuming since your running led lights you may not need a relay based timer.
You could probably get by with a mechanical timer. The Titan Controls Apollo 8 should be ideal for your low amp draw led lights. And with 2 outlets will accommodate your 2nd one in the future.
View attachment 677739
Since your not running a big ballast this one will work and cost much less.
Around $12.50 on eBay.
I'm running the Apollo 9 timers on both my t5 fixtures (290 watts & 190 watts). It is the digital equivalent of the Apollo 8.
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