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my ph is always upper limit

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my ph is always upper limit

JodolphBitler 24 Replies 4,050 Views
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JodolphBitler

JodolphBitler

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hey y’all. im growing indoor in fabric 3 gallon and 5 gallon bags in soil. mother earth terecraft. since i have switched from plastic pots I usually don’t have watering runoff. plants look greats with no deficiencies as i can tell. i do a feed feed water cycle. I ph to 6.4. i bought a ph moisture and light meter for the soil to keep tabs. the next day or days after a feeding or watering the
ph is always anout 7.3- 7.8. why is this? i have even lowered my feeding ph to 5.9-6.0 thinking this would help but the next day it goes back up. is this because the plant is actually using up all the nutrients and leaving the remaining moisture? i use GH flora series. great white mycorrhiza and flower fuel and unsulfered molasses. be worried or just natural. thanks.
 
hey y’all. im growing indoor in fabric 3 gallon and 5 gallon bags in soil. mother earth terecraft. since i have switched from plastic pots I usually don’t have watering runoff. plants look greats with no deficiencies as i can tell. i do a feed feed water cycle. I ph to 6.4. i bought a ph moisture and light meter for the soil to keep tabs. the next day or days after a feeding or watering the
ph is always anout 7.3- 7.8. why is this? i have even lowered my feeding ph to 5.9-6.0 thinking this would help but the next day it goes back up. is this because the plant is actually using up all the nutrients and leaving the remaining moisture? i use GH flora series. great white mycorrhiza and flower fuel and unsulfered molasses. be worried or just natural. thanks.
Those meters are garbage for the ph part.
 
first thing i find when i look for that soil is this:

Warning
WARNING - California Proposition 65​

WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

next, it is a buffered soil. i cant quickly find the numbers, but a good guess is 5.8 to 6.2 range since it is peat based.

when i say buffered, i mean it has stuff that makes any water at any ph go to that range. (when i say any, you cant actually add acid or like that... but most any in most normal water from your home)

so... you take that water, add stuff, then add that and the soil buffers it back to where it wants. problem starts from the buildup of what you add and what they use for that purpose and you have issues. so, i advise 2 things, one stop phing if you are in soil. and two, read this:


also, include pictures, this is like playboy, everyone comes for the articles... but the pictures seem to be all we look at.
 
makes sense. i use
ro water and the ph after all nutes are added comes in at about 5.5. so its safe to say i can just not ph it and water away? i also have a few plants in pro mix and that I ph to 5.8 as i read i should. what i want to do is go for a 50/50 of pro mix and soil. mostly to have some
nutes in early veg and to have a better airflow and runoff. is this daft? can i still
use the method of not ph’ing if i go that route?
 
you are using peat based soils, they are buffered with peat. read that post on ph. so, you can toss the meter and just water. i wouldnt even use ro, unless your water report says something that makes you need to. you want some parts per million in your water, those parts are the things your plant needs. and many water sources are fine. just google your towns water report.

since you are going with these cool soils, why not feed the soil, it starts out great, and if you just maintained that in the soil, you would have a perfect world. feed the soil, let the soil feed the plants. mostly, the plant knows what it needs and how much it needs and when it needs it. if it has it all, and it can access it freely, it wont over eat, under eat, or most of the issues folks face with cannabis.
 
I have very louse well
water. high in sulfur. its at about 850ppm. coty water is always an option. at 350. i feel
like i am missing out on weight because of the aforementioned issues. not stacked. good buds otherwise. maybe thats the issue. ph ing up and locking out some nutes.
 
a beginner has one really urgent serious critically important thing to learn, before and above all other things. it is the number one issue in all of grow-dom...

learn to water your plant. it is a Goldilocks thing, not too much, not too little, not too often but just right.

put some of your soil out of its bag and into a pot the size you use. let that sit for 3 days. lift that pot, then lift a pot you have a plant in. if they weigh the same, water. water slowly. i find a small cup, like a juice glass helps. pour water in the small cup and then drizzle that all around the plant, all around, on every spot. then do that till you see the very first drop of runnoff. you dont want runnoff in soil (again, that is mostly, but act like it is a never till you know the difference) i use the small cup to slow watering down, so i water and it doesnt just run through and out.

watering, if you look, has the most threads. my plant looks like ... the crowd says water issue about 80% of the time. the rest are hydro.

not really, but if you see a plant that looks not good, watering is the first thing to check into, always.
 
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i wish i could manipulate the analytics so that when "cannabis" and "soil" came up anytime together there would be a disclaimer that it is never a ph problem. and one that every time "whats wrong with my plant" comes up it sends you to "watering basics" and you cant leave the page and go further till you read the whole watering thing and take a test.
 
the fabric pots helped tons. in 3 gallon pots i water about half a gallon every 3 days. u have been very helpful. thanks
 
as time goes, water needs change. some days you will water a lot more often and sometimes a lot less often. but if you use the weight, you wont go wrong. after a while, you will be able to just nudge the pot and know. but that is over time. for now, use the dry weight as a measure.
 
The plant you grow=peace
The name you chose=war

Id say your little lady isnt happy with your handle on here. 👊
 
first thing i find when i look for that soil is this:

Warning
WARNING - California Proposition 65​

WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

next, it is a buffered soil. i cant quickly find the numbers, but a good guess is 5.8 to 6.2 range since it is peat based.

when i say buffered, i mean it has stuff that makes any water at any ph go to that range. (when i say any, you cant actually add acid or like that... but most any in most normal water from your home)

so... you take that water, add stuff, then add that and the soil buffers it back to where it wants. problem starts from the buildup of what you add and what they use for that purpose and you have issues. so, i advise 2 things, one stop phing if you are in soil. and two, read this:


also, include pictures, this is like playboy, everyone comes for the articles... but the pictures seem to be all we look at.
Hell, according to the state of California the molasses is also hazardous to you due to high lead levels. You have to take those warnings with a pinch of salt.
 
I grow in soil and have never once ph'd my runoff or my water before watering. I test it out of the tap like twice a year just to make sure it's not gone wonky.
 
Trying to pH your soil will cause issues, so don't do that anymore.
Soil Nutrution;

Basic Watering

Watering SOIL
 
Trying to pH your soil will cause issues, so don't do that anymore.
Soil Nutrution;

Basic Watering

Watering SOIL
Just a quote from the first link. "It is just as important to manage ph as fertility". Then they have a section on managing ph.
 
The plant you grow=peace
The name you chose=war

Id say your little lady isnt happy with your handle on here. 👊
they say our plants can talk. I talk to mine everyday and she says my “handle” is spot on. she also says “you don’t have to be gentle all the time”
swear to god. she actually said that.
 
as time goes, water needs change. some days you will water a lot more often and sometimes a lot less often. but if you use the weight, you wont go wrong. after a while, you will be able to just nudge the pot and know. but that is over time. for now, use the dry weight as a measure.
you mentioned not needing ph adjustments with feeding. do you give nutes every water? and if
not…on the plaid water days or final 2 week flush you do the same? just water away? i imagine you use tap and its sits a tad above 7. the buffera is the soild like dolamite lime bring the acidity up regardless. i do have access to city water and it is about 8 and 350ppm. coud i just use this water…skip calmag. add the nutes which will bring it to about 5.8 and on water days just use plain tap again but add nothing? thanks
 
At this time of year nursery pots hold water longer, and the sides of fabric pots sometimes dry out, but you can lower your pH by putting a small splash of white vinegar in a 16oz cup of water stir and give plant, go easy you can always repeat, to raise pH a bit of baking soda stirred in a 16oz cup of water same drill, or you can go to your hydro store or net and buy pH up/down.
 
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