Need help, is she hungry?

ZWaffles · Jul 21, 2025

Been feeding her pretty regularly and I thought maybe she had a nute burn because of the curling tips and yellowing and just recently gave her 1 gal RO water with only CalMag but over the last day she’s gotten super purple and leaves are turning even more pale yellow. She’s 48 days from sprout and strawberry gorilla from fastbuds. Should I just wait and let her dry out or give her a heavy feed using less water? Using GH Flora in a 2x4 with average 76° and 58% RH

JIMKSI64 · Jul 21, 2025

Medium and pot size. Feed schedule. Light energy.

franklygrown · Jul 21, 2025

ZWaffles said:
Been feeding her pretty regularly and I thought maybe she had a nute burn because of the curling tips and yellowing and just recently gave her 1 gal RO water with only CalMag but over the last day she’s gotten super purple and leaves are turning even more pale yellow. She’s 48 days from sprout and strawberry gorilla from fastbuds. Should I just wait and let her dry out or give her a heavy feed using less water? Using GH Flora in a 2x4 with average 76° and 58% RH

How's your ph? Looks like nutrients aren't bioavailable because of too high a ph.

JIMKSI64 · Jul 21, 2025

franklygrown said:
How's your ph? Looks like nutrients aren't bioavailable because of too high a ph.

Lately people been putting soil in coco and everyone is wrong when that happens.

franklygrown · Jul 21, 2025

JIMKSI64 said:
Lately people been putting soil in coco and everyone is wrong when that happens.

Or putting coil in soil! The monsters....

ZWaffles · Jul 21, 2025

Fox Farms half OF/HF, in a 5 gallon pot. On a 20/4 schedule. I have a Lemon Cherry Gelato I’ve been feeding at the same schedule as the SG and isn’t having the same issue. This is a picture from today compared to yesterday’s pictures. I’m going to do a flush because it has to be a nutrient lockout of some sort.

GNick55 · Jul 21, 2025

ZWaffles said:
Fox Farms half OF/HF, in a 5 gallon pot. On a 20/4 schedule. I have a Lemon Cherry Gelato I’ve been feeding at the same schedule as the SG and isn’t having the same issue. This is a picture from today compared to yesterday’s pictures. I’m going to do a flush because it has to be a nutrient lockout of some sort.

looks to me like incorrect feeding,..

ZWaffles · Jul 21, 2025

GNick55 said:
looks to me like incorrect feeding,..

Very well could be. I’ve been fighting deficiency’s on her the entire grow. LCC has been growing like a champ

RoadKillSkunkHunt · Jul 21, 2025

ZWaffles said:
Very well could be. I’ve been fighting deficiency’s on her the entire grow. LCC has been growing like a champ

How long have you been using cal-mag, from the beginning of the grow? It looks to me like nutrient lockout issues due to excess feeding. Most common cause is too much calcium ... which will lock out just about everything else.

JIMKSI64 · Jul 21, 2025

I run HF/OF and have recently increased nitrogen amendments to the soil. My Apple Fritter ate all the fans week 2 of flower then started on sugars. Was unable to halt on 2 plants but the 2 that are 4 weeks behind I got enough Nitrogen added to stop the fade.
I am adding 3/4 cup top dress EWC every 2 weeks starting at week 3 and ending week 9. This above the standard soil conditioner topdress at 3 and 5.
Fish poop for flowers.

ZWaffles · Jul 21, 2025

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
How long have you been using cal-mag, from the beginning of the grow? It looks to me like nutrient lockout issues due to excess feeding. Most common cause is too much calcium ... which will lock out just about everything else.

I think that just might be it. I’ve been adding CalMag a lot because I use strictly RO water (my house has it installed) and this is only my second grow. Thought I was having a Mag deficiency but might’ve just been actively making it worse. I did a 4 gallon flush and ppm’s dropped to 300-400 from 1000. Really hard to flush with the scrog (first time using one) and I’ll be gone for the next 3 days so I’m hoping it’ll recover in the time being

RoadKillSkunkHunt · Jul 21, 2025

ZWaffles said:
I think that just might be it. I’ve been adding CalMag a lot because I use strictly RO water (my house has it installed) and this is only my second grow. Thought I was having a Mag deficiency but might’ve just been actively making it worse. I did a 4 gallon flush and ppm’s dropped to 300-400 from 1000. Really hard to flush with the scrog (first time using one) and I’ll be gone for the next 3 days so I’m hoping it’ll recover in the time being

It's likely you were having mag deficiencies early on. For some reason LEDs tend to cause cannabis to use a whole lot more magnesium than those old HID lights did. Here's a better way to handle that. Use epsom salts at 1 teaspoon per gallon starting in veg. While calcium is needed early on, the amount is so much less than your plants will use later on. Around the 2nd-3rd week of 12/12 ... or if you're growing autos, when the plant goes from showing a few pistils to just beginning to form buds, that's your queue to use the cal-mag. Don't use cal-mag during veg to treat a magnesium issue. It's a leading cause of lock-out during flower. Only use the cal-mag during veg if you're sure you have a calcium deficiency. This is rare because most soil mixes have enough in the mix already to keep your plants happy during veg.

Coco is another story. You should use cal-mag starting early on because coco is inert and has zero nutrition in its natural state.

LoveGrowingIt · Jul 21, 2025

I stopped using calmag a long time ago because I didn't trust it being properly proportioned for my water & soil. Since then, I've been using separate sources of Ca & Mg. So, I won't say it's not excess Ca. That said, though, it might help to lower the humidity slightly. Many folks flower in the low 50s or in the 40s. So, maybe drop it down to about 52%, if possible, to see if that helps. That'll reduce the transpiration rate by decreasing the size of the openings of the stomata. That'll allow more moisture to reach the leaf tips and potentially avoid leaf tip necrosis and the appearance of nutrient burn.

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
It's likely you were having mag deficiencies early on. For some reason LEDs tend to cause cannabis to use a whole lot more magnesium than those old HID lights did.

It's common, I think. This is off topic, but I've suspected this Mg deficiency has to do with inadequacies of the LED light spectrum. It's another reason I distrust calmag mixtures.

RoadKillSkunkHunt · Jul 21, 2025

LoveGrowingIt said:
It's common, I think. This is off topic, but I've suspected this Mg deficiency has to do with inadequacies of the LED light spectrum. It's another reason I distrust calmag mixtures.

Or (this is what I think) the spectrum of good LED lighting is enough to put a bit more of an energy charge into photosynthesis. Magnesium is the foundation atom that drives photosynthesis. Better quality light means higher rates of photosynthesis which equates to higher demand for magnesium.

There's nothing wrong with your approach because your water minerals do come into play. I took the opposite approach. I use a tabletop distillation machine and use distilled water as my water source for mixing all nutrients. I haven't had issues with calcium since I switched to distilled water AND stopped using cal-mag during veg.

LoveGrowingIt · Jul 21, 2025

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
Or (this is what I think) the spectrum of good LED lighting is enough to put a bit more of an energy charge into photosynthesis. Magnesium is the foundation atom that drives photosynthesis. Better quality light means higher rates of photosynthesis which equates to higher demand for magnesium.

Mg is the central atom in the chlorophyl molecule, so that's certainly a principal factor. It doesn't explain why plants grown in sunlight grow into veritable trees without adding Mg like we do when using LED light. I got started down the spectral path by some research I read a few years ago that asserted the wavelengths in question were in the low 200 nm range. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate that research again. Without being able to cite it, I've mostly refrained from mentioning it. I liked the research paper you recently posted, though, so I figured you might be interested in this for your consideration.

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
There's nothing wrong with your approach because your water minerals do come into play. I took the opposite approach. I use a tabletop distillation machine and use distilled water as my water source for mixing all nutrients. I haven't had issues with calcium since I switched to distilled water AND stopped using cal-mag during veg.

I've been thinking of distilling, but our tap water comes from rivers flowing from nearby mountains, so there aren't significant amounts of dissolved minerals in it. I haven't had a problem with excess Ca. It has only been occasionally deficient, but in no way as much so as Mg. I just acquired a new TDS & EC meter, though, and plan to test my tap water after I calibrate it. Gotta love data.

Captspaulding · Jul 21, 2025

GNick55 said:
looks to me like incorrect feeding,..

I concur.
Def hungry af too

RoadKillSkunkHunt · Jul 21, 2025

LoveGrowingIt said:
Mg is the central atom in the chlorophyl molecule, so that's certainly a principal factor. It doesn't explain why plants grown in sunlight grow into veritable trees without adding Mg like we do when using LED light. I got started down the spectral path by some research I read a few years ago that asserted the wavelengths in question were in the low 200 nm range. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate that research again. Without being able to cite it, I've mostly refrained from mentioning it. I liked the research paper you recently posted, though, so I figured you might be interested in this for your consideration.

I've been thinking of distilling, but our tap water comes from rivers flowing from nearby mountains, so there aren't significant amounts of dissolved minerals in it. I haven't had a problem with excess Ca. It has only been occasionally deficient, but in no way as much so as Mg. I just acquired a new TDS & EC meter, though, and plan to test my tap water after I calibrate it. Gotta love data.

Lightwaves in the 200 NM range would be very dangerous UVC. I'm not sure if that will help you locate what you're looking for but perhaps its the wavelength you're looking at is off?

There's another difference to contend with outdoors when it comes to soil. Outside, its much more likely to be a mineral based true soil which would have at least trace amounts of magnesium in it already. Some places would naturally have significantly more. It's a thought. I could be wrong about it but it does make sense.

The reason I went to distilled water as my base for mixing nutes is my water quality is not great. It's a municipal source. It comes out of the tap near 9 and has tons of calcium in it.

Captspaulding · Jul 21, 2025

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
Lightwaves in the 200 NM range would be very dangerous UVC. I'm not sure if that will help you locate what you're looking for but perhaps its the wavelength you're looking at is off?

There's another difference to contend with outdoors when it comes to soil. Outside, its much more likely to be a mineral based true soil which would have at least trace amounts of magnesium in it already. Some places would naturally have significantly more. It's a thought. I could be wrong about it but it does make sense.

The reason I went to distilled water as my base for mixing nutes is my water quality is not great. It's a municipal source. It comes out of the tap near 9 and has tons of calcium in it.

Mines around 8
Is loaded with mag and calcium,
Im certain its right up to the line with soil buffers.
I manage though. Never cal but almost always have a couple plants pull mag.
Id be sketched out about 9 too.

LoveGrowingIt · Jul 21, 2025

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
Lightwaves in the 200 NM range would be very dangerous UVC. I'm not sure if that will help you locate what you're looking for but perhaps its the wavelength you're looking at is off?

It could be. I had a bad fall in the driveway a few days ago and am still recovering from it. As I said, it was several years ago that I saw the research. Memories fade. I wish I had saved the link. I think it's fair to say, though, that looking toward spectrum differences as causal in nutrient requirement differences would be a useful line of inquiry. We already know there's a difference between plants grown under LEDs and "those old HID lights." That difference could be in the spectrum.

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
There's another difference to contend with outdoors when it comes to soil. Outside, its much more likely to be a mineral based true soil which would have at least trace amounts of magnesium in it already. Some places would naturally have significantly more. It's a thought. I could be wrong about it but it does make sense.

Yes. It does make sense and makes comparison difficult without testing.

RoadKillSkunkHunt said:
The reason I went to distilled water as my base for mixing nutes is my water quality is not great. It's a municipal source. It comes out of the tap near 9 and has tons of calcium in it.

If mine were near 9, I'd be distilling too. Ours has reliably tested at 7.6. I suspect our water utility might even adjust it upward, because acidic soil is common here in the land of evergreen forests. I've been told that well water tends to be more alkaline than river water because it has a much longer contact time with minerals in the soil.

RoadKillSkunkHunt · Jul 21, 2025

LoveGrowingIt said:
It could be. I had a bad fall in the driveway a few days ago and am still recovering from it. As I said, it was several years ago that I saw the research. Memories fade. I wish I had saved the link. I think it's fair to say, though, that looking toward spectrum differences as causal in nutrient requirement differences would be a useful line of inquiry. We already know there's a difference between plants grown under LEDs and "those old HID lights." That difference could be in the spectrum.

Yes. It does make sense and makes comparison difficult without testing.

If mine were near 9, I'd be distilling too. Ours has reliably tested at 7.6. I suspect our water utility might even adjust it upward, because acidic soil is common here in the land of evergreen forests. I've been told that well water tends to be more alkaline than river water because it has a much longer contact time with minerals in the soil.

I don't live in Flint, but I am in Michigan. Since Flint had the lead leaching from pipes problem a few years back, most Michigan municipalities have raised the pH of their water supplies as an extra measure against it. My water used to be closer to 8 although still pretty hard.

Need help, is she hungry?

Need help, is she hungry?

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