JBloomers123
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6.8 in soil is ok...tap is ok too
Thank you, I just tested AFTER adding nutes and it measured right around 5 so I left it alone. I had no idea the nutes could change the PH.I would bubble and or let your water sit out overnight before using.
My tap, bubbled after 24hrs is 7.3ph at 70*f. Temp alters ph. I use 1ml ph down per gallon to get 6.4ph.
Best way to get a base line ph is to take some soil in a cup..then add the water you will use... Let sit for about 30 minutes then ph... Youll see your high/low points.should I be testing the soil?
Vitamin c will get rid of chlorineI would bubble and or let your water sit out overnight before using.
My tap, bubbled after 24hrs is 7.3ph at 70*f. Temp alters ph. I use 1ml ph down per gallon to get 6.4ph.
Very few nutes and additives dont change ph... Its why you ph after additionsThank you, I just tested AFTER adding nutes and it measured right around 5 so I left it alone. I had no idea the nutes could change the PH.
Yes nutes will acidify the solution but in buffered potting soil it may not matter. The lime or oyster shell in the mix will bring the ph back up towards 7 automatically.
It is not the ph that is the concern. It is the alkalinity of the water. My well water is 8.0 ph but only .2 ec or 100 ppm mineral content. 150 is said to be ideal and it works best to mix the source water with ro water until the 150 ppm is achieved. You did not say the waters ppm.
Only water that is very hard (alkaline) needs to be acidified. I have read that above 250-300 ppm total mineral content is hard enough to need ph down. And/ or likely need to be filtered for too much mineral content.
I never use it in limed potting soil. It can cause more problems with the medium than fix.
Think of it like this. Hard alkaline water is like adding some lime (calcium) to your pots every watering.
Adding ph down especially phosphorus based every time can acidify the medium and lock out nutrients if in needed.
And plants can uptake in a much wider range of ph than the forums and guides generally state. Ph is said to be the issue on grow problems constantly on the Internet forums. And in water culture (hydro) it matters a lot. But in properly buffered soil it is not usually the problem. Over fertilizing is.
I REALLY appreciate the feedback. I think what I'm learning is that for the past 5-7 years i was living on EZ Street with regards to having the perfect water coming from my tap. it was never an issue...clone, root, plant, flower, harvest and repeat without fail. Now that I'm pulling city water it's a totally different ball game. I don't know shit about ppm's, hardness levels, alkaline or alkalinity...yikes. Nutes...I'm using this word Like I know it. Nutes = Ferts? Nutrients = Fertilzers?? oh boy i have much to learn
for "ph"one can use PH perfect nutrient by advanced nutrients - anyway Have never tested ph on water always used water that has sat for 24 hr. I never had any water related plant issues =- don't so nuts about Keep it Simple
And another quick question...would Perfect PH and others like GH Flora series - are they used in addition to nutes or are they an end-all - use these and nothing else?I like this idea - do u know how PH Perfect compares to GH Flora Grow, Bloom and Micro Combo?
thanks,
I would suggest you stop using a fertilizer you need to adjust the pH of.
Simple for some, not for me. When u say get your ph right are you talking about the water, soil or both? greatly appreciated.What a simple and effective answer. :)
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