MidwestToker
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- Feb 20, 2014
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I,d still replace the membrane ! No way to know what the 100 ppm consist of with-out having it tested.
Definitely i ordered all new filters and membrane. The Membrane has to be trashed. I put new filters in and they were dirty in 2 hours so time for a new membrane. Figured might as well get a sterilizer while im at it.I,d still replace the membrane ! No way to know what the 100 ppm consist of with-out having it tested.
Which damages the roots, causing rot, which drops the pH. Yep. :) Root damage isn't always caused by a biological explosion, you're correct.I love how the only real answer gets over looked that you are over feeding
I love how the only real answer gets over looked that you are over feeding yet the one guy who uses the "Fox News " scare tactic and tells you it's root rot gets credibility and gets you to buy more equipment you don't need.
I'm in UC. I run municple tap. I run 73 degree water. I run zero air stones or air pumps. My ph stays stable for up to 6 days because I don't go above .6 ec which is 300 tds. All of this is publicly documented on these forums.
It's simple. You are over feeding. Just cut back the nutes.
If simple isn't good enough for you, then feel free to be scared of the root rot you don't have and to open up your wallet and go spend a bunch of money you don't need to spend?
on wednesday i pushed my ppm up 530 and set ph to 5.8 today my ppm 460 and my ph rose to 5.9. 4 days till water flush before finishing.i am having the same problem? i am in week 8 of flower(current solutions). 9 days ago my PH crashed and my ppm were at 400 on 500 scale. i flushed and brought my ppm 250 3 days later my ph crashed .flushed again added back just municple tap water. the next day my ph crashed again. all root are a bright white and no signs of root rot or slime .the next thing i want to try is push the nutes up to around 500ppm to see if i crash again? i have been using the UC for the last 8years has not always been easy but well worth it !!
My findings have pointed to something is deficient in solution that causes this and exchanges correct the deficiency then after this trace element is stripped again it drops, raising ppm seems to help as there is more of the element present for the plant to take to correct itself.. you can send water samples to j r peters and do your own due diligence to see if the same thing is causing your drop... I had one strain that kept stripping Mg and I supplemented it instead of wasting 450gal of stock solution every 3-4days when everything was relatively balanced besides the Mg in the systemson wednesday i pushed my ppm up 530 and set ph to 5.8 today my ppm 460 and my ph rose to 5.9. 4 days till water flush before finishing.
Calimagic[/QUOTproblem is the Calimagic
I love how the only real answer gets over looked that you are over feeding yet the one guy who uses the "Fox News " scare tactic and tells you it's root rot gets credibility and gets you to buy more equipment you don't need.
I'm in UC. I run municple tap. I run 73 degree water. I run zero air stones or air pumps. My ph stays stable for up to 6 days because I don't go above .6 ec which is 300 tds. All of this is publicly documented on these forums.
It's simple. You are over feeding. Just cut back the nutes.
If simple isn't good enough for you, then feel free to be scared of the root rot you don't have and to open up your wallet and go spend a bunch of money you don't need to spend?
When was the last res change?
RO water?Weekly on Mondays.
RO water?
Starting ppm? Sorry I should just ask for all the parameters you can give. 12/12 will also make a difference.No. Well water.
Just heading to a meeting if it's not a sterile system a lot can be caused by microbes but I'll get into that after.My current theory is that the plants are uptaking a nutrient in heavy doses. Because all the synthetic nutes have buffering properties to them, once that nute has been depleted, the pH chemistry is thrown off.
Short term solution is to do a resi flush. New nutes added. Depleted nute is replenished.
Long term solution is play with NPK ratios a little. Might need less N and more P-K.
Higher EC isn’t necessarily the answer but rather an adjustment to the ratios based on what the plants are asking for. Likely more P-K.
Increasing overall EC might only result in too much of a nutrient that could lead to lockout. Gotta fix the ratios before pushing the EC (if pushing the EC is even necessary).
Heavy eating causing roots to create acidity only adding to the problem.
Sound diagnosis?
Starting ppm? Sorry I should just ask for all the parameters you can give. 12/12 will also make a difference.
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