RFT
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- Nov 2, 2019
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Sterile within reason. Only synthetic nutes. Calcium Hypochlorite added frequently to mitigate algae and other organics.
Just heading to a meeting if it's not a sterile system a lot can be caused by microbes but I'll get into that after.
Are you cleaning out the dead and decaying organics because that can cause cause PH to dropSterile within reason. Only synthetic nutes. Calcium Hypochlorite added frequently to mitigate algae and other organics.
Are you cleaning out the dead and decaying organics because that can cause cause PH to drop
dead algae etc.What dead & decaying organics?
I do a full reservoir clean in between cycles. But since switching to the Calcium Hypochlorite there isnt any visible organic matter to clean up.
Granted, being that it’s in a greenhouse (with sealed floor) Im only going to be able to do so much. It’s NFT. So not easy to keep sealed off like say RDWC.
hmm does your PH change from first thing before lights onand later in the day about an hour before lights out? Can you check this?What dead & decaying organics?
I do a full reservoir clean in between cycles. But since switching to the Calcium Hypochlorite there isnt any visible organic matter to clean up.
Granted, being that it’s in a greenhouse (with sealed floor) Im only going to be able to do so much. It’s NFT. So not easy to keep sealed off like say RDWC.
dead algae etc.
PH stable day and night? You don't see a drop in PH in the morning before lights on then slight rise throughout the day?I see. Since switching to Calcium Hypochlorite the algae is almost non existent. And there is zero buildup or sludge on the roots. They are remarkably clean.
hmm does your PH change from first thing before lights onand later in the day about an hour before lights out? Can you check this?
Have a way to track you doser? I might try unplugging it and dosing by hand... Equipment sometimes can fuck ya.I can check/track this. I’d have to get more specific in my notes.
Here’s what I know: pH is set to 5.6 with a 0.8 float before the auto doser recalibrates the solution.
Normally it takes about 3-4 days for the pH to steadily climb to 6.4 and then the computer drops it back down to 5.6
It’s a very generic pH range. By design.
Works fine until week 4. About 4 days in the pH is climbing. I check it at night. I come in the next morning and BOOM it’s down to 4.8 ... same scenario as the OP in this thread.
Have a way to track you doser? I might try unplugging it and dosing by hand... Equipment sometimes can fuck ya.
Ok see if the PH is changing from literally just before lights on.... not after and then just before lights out to see where your fluctuations are happening. I kinda feel like there might be a couple things going on here.4 different zones. 4 identical dosers. Super high quality.
6 yrs experience with these dosers. I trust them more than humans or myself LOL.
Ok see if the PH is changing from literally just before lights on.... not after and then just before lights out to see where your fluctuations are happening. I kinda feel like there might be a couple things going on here.
Well plants do different processes during lights out and day light. They release starches etc and hydrogen ions during lights out so while this may not be huge it can add up with other effects. Like high CO2 levels produced during plant respiration over night. Now air pumps increase gas exchange and so there can be an increase of carbonic acid added together could make a small ph drop that should be reversed during the next day cycle.It’s gradual. Happens throughout the night and into the next day. Just keeps sinking until it’s in the 4’s then stabilizes. Or I assume it does. I dont sit around to see what happens. I start adding fresh h2o to raise the pH back up.
What’s your theory?
Well plants do different processes during lights out and day light. They release starches etc and hydrogen ions during lights out so while this may not be huge it can add up with other effects. Like high CO2 levels produced during plant respiration over night. Now air pumps increase gas exchange and so there can be an increase of carbonic acid added together could make a small ph drop that should be reversed during the next day cycle.
What I'm thinking and I need to look into this but I have been very busy lately is with you now increases root mass and other factors. The clorine in the pool shock is destroyed when it comes into contact with organic matter. (You should really look into the nasty by products created from this). As this occurs you are losing your buffering capacity.
I would bet that if you switch to h2o2 and added a buffer like calcium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate (which in flower depending on your base nutes may be beneficial) you would no longer see this ph drop.
Like I say I have read up on this to ensure I have it right bit that what's I am thinking for what it's worth
Then just use potassium bicarbonate to being the ph up... Imho you don't want high phosphorus. What I was talking about is the pool shock has a high ph so it was buffering the ph but as it's used up you ph is unstable and it's drops like a rock. The bicarbonate is a ph buffer and the extra K you will benefit from if looking for a boost anyways. Ideally K 2x the amount of N. It's will be more stable than just relying on the pool shock
Super cheap off Amazon or anywhere for that matter.Very interesting.
I haven’t noticed the pool shock causing the pH to rise at all.
But I still find your suggestion good. Potassium bicarbonate. I’ll get my hands on some.
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