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Plant Problem Indoors Need Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter KatzieWolf
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Plant Problem Indoors Need Help

KatzieWolf 83 Replies 5,653 Views
Page 2 of 5 · Replies 21–40 of 84
#21
This is the other plant, and it was a bit slower in coming out of seed stage. The strain is Sweet Pink Grapefruit and Skunk #1 and regular photoperiod. And a top view of the first one i showed originally.
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#22
LoveGrowingIt said:
I have two same-strain plants in a 2x3 tent that were grown from seeds from the same batch from RQS. Nevertheless, the two plants grew very differently, despite just about every environmental factor being the same for them. They're about halfway through flowering. Such differences are not uncommon.
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If it is genetics I dont think there is much you can do. What I would do if I couldnt find the cause and since the symptoms show low perspiration is I would raise the pot with a couple of bricks so that it is closer to the light, probably have an oscilating fan blow on the leaves and play it by ear from there. I would give her a couple of weeks and if no improvements and I thought it would be feasible to start a new healthy plant in the same space iwould put her aside.
 
#23
polpotoflove said:
If it is genetics I dont think there is much you can do. What I would do if I couldnt find the cause and since the symptoms show low perspiration is I would raise the pot with a couple of bricks so that it is closer to the light, probably have an oscilating fan blow on the leaves and play it by ear from there. I would give her a couple of weeks and if no improvements and I thought it would be feasible to start a new healthy plant in the same space iwould put her aside.
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Its a LED light and i moved it away because i thought it was too close.
 
#24
Any more info on environment?
Whats the drainage on those pots?

Can we get a few more pics please
 
#25
Seeing it from the top, the leaves of my current grow did that twist near the stem when the ambient temperature dropped below 17c during lights off, before I put a heater in.
 
#27
It just occurred to me that soil temperature could be an issue. Methods of managing it is something I've been fiddling with recently. I've often heard that cold soil can cause problems. I was just reading this morning that temperature affects the fungal mycorrhizae, but I don't know if this is an organic grow.
 
#28
mstrpkl said:
Helpful information is usually in the form of WHAT you are doing and HOW you are doing it. When you post here asking a question and then just say "i know everything is fine so whats the problem someone tell me" its literally impossible for anyone to help....

So lets start figuring things out. How much water? How often? What kinda pot? Size? What kinda light? Intensity? Distance? Temps? Humidity?

Answer all that, and you might get helpful answers from people here.

Good luck dude.
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You are the one that came looking for help....just saying
Good luck yourself
 
#29
KatzieWolf said:
Its a LED light and i moved it away because i thought it was too close.
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I don't think it's a light problem. The light green, almost yellow-colored new growth can be a symptom of inadequate oxygen in the root zone. Light stress looks different to me.
 
#31
LoveGrowingIt said:
It just occurred to me that soil temperature could be an issue. Methods of managing it is something I've been fiddling with recently. I've often heard that cold soil can cause problems. I was just reading this morning that temperature affects the fungal mycorrhizae, but I don't know if this is an organic grow.
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Under18C/64F mobility of sugars through the root system is greatly inhibited, but for mycco colonization of the roots to slow down it takes something like 10C/50F. If I remember correctly
 
#32
polpotoflove said:
Under18C/64F mobility of sugars through the root system is greatly inhibited, but for mycco colonization of the roots to slow down it takes something like 10C/50F. If I remember correctly
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Good info! Thanks!

I've been checking my soil temperatures, and they stay close to 70F. I'm not worried about the lows because I have heaters in my tents. I'm more interested in optimal temperature ranges for mycorrhizae. I hadn't thought much about the mobility of sugars yet, but that's certainly worth some thought. Now, I'm thinking about the water temperature and adjusting it to the soil temperature. I've always let it warm, but now I'm measuring it.
 
#34
KatzieWolf said:
Its a LED light and i moved it away because i thought it was too close.
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Ive just seen a plant on a video that looked just like that and it was nitrogen toxicity, although i dont know how you would correct that. low soil temps definately dont help , ive been struggling the last few months , if it goes below 19 0c it will slow down and below 15 will put it into shock
 
#38
I’ve grown for a while now. I still fuck up and over water. Give it a few days to dry back and see if it bounces back. You don’t have anything to loose by waiting a few days.
 
#40
This seems to be a good example of the soil being "too hot" for the age of the plant. The high N levels are causing the clawing. The leaves seems awfully large for its age also. Another possible indication of high N soil. Really rapid growth can cause crinkling like that sometimes. The pic of the younger plant shows early signs of clawing also. As the roots grow, the plant accesses more nutruents. I see this in any soil I make intended to be either bloom top dress only or water-only that I've amended with enough N to get me to the finish.The plants should grow into the soil just fine as long as they aren't getting nute burn. If you up-pot in the future this affect can be minimized,
 
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