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  • Plants stalled, new 24-site system/Advanced Nutrients/Led's

Plants stalled, new 24-site system/Advanced Nutrients/Led's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fractalman
  • Start date Start date Feb 18, 2013
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Plants stalled, new 24-site system/Advanced Nutrients/Led's

Fractalman Feb 18, 2013 20 Replies 3,169 Views
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Fractalman

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#1

My roots got too long coming out of the EZ-cloner, so I coiled them up at the bottom of the netpots in my CC 24-site unit, then covered them with Hydroton. The rootballs would have sat too high in the netpot otherwise, I would have planted on a few inches of Hydroton per instructions. The plants now have roots coming from the bottom of the netpot and in the water. But the Hydroton in the netpot is completely dry. The water level is about 1/2 inch below bottom of netpot. If I raise it more to wet the Hydroton, the plants wilt and seem to drown. Plants have been in system for almost 3 months now and the last 2 months have seen NO GROWTH at all. No new roots, or leaves. Seem to have totally stalled and showing signs of different deficiencies. PPM is a little high (350 now) but I'm lowering to 250 when I do nute change tomorrow. Ph slowly rises, but plants aren't uptaking water. Using tap water. RH= 55-60%. Room temp is 75. Still vegging. Using many led's, no hps.

Any advice would be appreciated, but my first concern is that I'm not growing any new roots. And what do you suggest I do about the water level? Do I raise to recommended level and possibly drown plants, or keep where it is and look for other factors holding them back?

Thank you,
Jim
 

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ri420patient

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#2
LOOKS TO ME LIKE THERE TOTALLY BURNT OUT HOW MUCH NUTES ARE YOU USING maybe drain what you have in there and start with some frsh wateer what does your water come out at ppms
 
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NWElite89

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#3
^^^I start out with plain water and flush out the system for a few days and then add nutes back in the system at a very diluted rate, (20%) or so and see how they do. Looks like nutrient lockout
 
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woodsmaneh

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#4
You might want to look here

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...hen-put-into-the-uc.53542/page-2#post-1001808
 
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UCMENOW

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#5
LED's and AN?

Ouch.

Wouldn't recommend AN in the UC. But if you do use it run it at 1/4 strength and drop the bennies and enzymes.
 
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Fractalman

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#6
UCMENOW said:
LED's and AN?

Ouch.

Wouldn't recommend AN in the UC. But if you do use it run it at 1/4 strength and drop the bennies and enzymes.
Click to expand...
Why not AN? I've used before in straight hydro and crushed it. This Current Culture system is new to me, so please suggest a better suited nute formula that you know works.
 
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ri420patient

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#7
those are 3 months old? thats probably why an is no good in here you might want to try cs nutes this is my first time using this system and they seem to be doing great and at ease or try reading some threads on here there is alot of valuable info on this site i learned everything i tried from here good luck to you let us know how u make out
 
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Capulator

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#8
I bet the EC is too high for the LEDS. also, I have never seen LEDs over a UC system.. May not be enough light.

What do you feed your regular hydro (ppms)? Use about 35% of that number.

AN is fine for this system. DD crushed it using AN in the MPB's.

CS is awesome though. Using their line now and couldnt be happier.
 
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Texas Kid

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#9
An was a pain in the ass...Ionic kills it....Pure Blend not so much...Dutch Masters is tits....now I am back to CS full line and gettin ready to kill it..
 
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woodsmaneh

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#10
I have used DM gold and was happy with the results. I have been using Canna and H&G for the last few grows and they both work well. I like the Canna.
 
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Texas Kid

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#11
I ran H&G for years in it and loved it...easy for the most part..Ionic is the easiest, especially at the end when it is basically a 2 part, base and pk boost..

Hydro, top drip or flood and drain isn't the same animal as RCDWC for whatever reason the nutes don't act the same

What are your actual ec's or ppms?

what is the ppm of your tap? or are you using r/o water?

what are your water temps in the system?

You could maybe do a top water flush when you change your system nutes..

What is your water level in relationship to the net pot/roots/rooter cube?
 
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stickyfing3rs

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#12
Hey tk when you ran h&g what additives did you use? I run h&g in my dwc systems with no additives whatsoever, like 250 ppms of a&b with ro water. Never had any deficiencies so i never felt the need to use anything else, i have great results imo. Do you think my buds would b even more flavorful if i used them? Or don't fix something that ain't broke?
Texas Kid said:
I ran H&G for years in it and loved it...easy for the most part..Ionic is the easiest, especially at the end when it is basically a 2 part, base and pk boost..

Hydro, top drip or flood and drain isn't the same animal as RCDWC for whatever reason the nutes don't act the same

What are your actual ec's or ppms?

what is the ppm of your tap? or are you using r/o water?

what are your water temps in the system?

You could maybe do a top water flush when you change your system nutes..

What is your water level in relationship to the net pot/roots/rooter cube?
Click to expand...
 
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Fractalman

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#13
Texas Kid said:
I ran H&G for years in it and loved it...easy for the most part..Ionic is the easiest, especially at the end when it is basically a 2 part, base and pk boost..

Hydro, top drip or flood and drain isn't the same animal as RCDWC for whatever reason the nutes don't act the same

What are your actual ec's or ppms?

what is the ppm of your tap? or are you using r/o water?

what are your water temps in the system?

You could maybe do a top water flush when you change your system nutes..

What is your water level in relationship to the net pot/roots/rooter cube?
Click to expand...
PPM was 350 until yesterday, when I changed it out for straight tap water and Zerotol (H2O2).
Tap water is 80 ppm. Tried RO water and things went to shit. Now back to tap water.
Ph is 5.7 - 6.3
Room temp is 75, running chiller water temp is 66.
ppm now 130, but I may bump it up to 250 by adding a little nutes.
Just trying to go as basic as possible so they'll at least start drinking some water.
 
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Texas Kid

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#14
When I ran H&G I ran the A&B, drip clean, roots exelurator, Top Booster, Bud XL, Shooting Powder, and Magic Green..the Amino and the Nitro boost were not out yet so i don't have any experience with those
 
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tipper619sd

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#15
I would keep the ppms as low as possible around 200 and let them recover until u see new growth and a drop in readings
 
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Fractalman

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#16
PPM now 130 just tap water and ZeroTol (h2o2). Plants still doing nothing. I called Current Culture and Dan told me he thought the plants were shocked very early in their life, and they are now no more alive than cut flowers. Can anyone else verify if this is true? Can the plants just go dormant indefinitely? Shouldn't they eventually regrow? Not a good option for me to pull these 3-foot tall plants and restart.

And, if I do take cuttings from them for replacement, would the stresses on the mother give rise to hermaphrodite-prone clones?
 
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Fractalman

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#17
  1. So, an interesting side note:

    I was checking which of the 24 tubs I wanted to tear the plants out of first and I started looking at the roots of the worst of the lot. To my surprise, they looked really good. Excellent really. Bright white, bi-fricating really searching. Quite surprising considering I was there to literally tear them all out. I think dumbing the nutes down to just water and h2o2 let them recover. So now I have a question for anyone who got this far in the post: Please! IF I FLOWER THESE PLANTS WILL THEY HERMAPHRODITE from all the nute/ph stress they've been thru?​
 
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ri420patient

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#18
Might be easier to start over and try it from the beginning u will get a much better yield it should only take about 3 weeks after clone
 
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Kushlvr

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#19
If you want to see those babies grow some serious roots check out desert squirrel's how to properly root & veg in the under current system. Starting with nute profile like Dynabloom's with the addition of IBA & a sterilizer kicks ass when needing roots & then being able to change that profile by just adding cal mag to get some serious growth kicks ass. Super easy then switch over to cultured solutions (if affordable now) if not stick to AN A&B at very low EC. Once everything is going good try adding a additive like their big bud or better yet CS bud booster. You will be surprised how much less is more with this system. Also I highly suggest either CS roots in the system every 5-7 days OR start brewing EWC tea using caps bennies or something with those bennies. I'm sure you know all about that clear/yellowish slime always keep a eye out for that it will come quick but the teas kill it quicker. Just make sure all the bennies have eaten up all the sugars before adding into the system & if your using a 24 site w/the XL 13 modules you will need to add like 15 gallons of properly brewed Ewc tea but only if you get that pond smell or start to notice slimy modules or slime on air stones or the air hose. Once you've got control of the slime a cup per 10 gallons is plenty. Good luck man
 
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cannabeans

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#20
IF I FLOWER THESE PLANTS WILL THEY HERMAPHRODITE from all the nute/ph stress they've been thru?
Click to expand...

I think if you get them back to good health BEFORE you start to bloom them, and keep them stress free during the bloom, they shoud be fine.
 
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Started Feb 18, 2013
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