Please help brown spots on leaves

[denoss]

Wedding glue auto on week 6 top leafs have broken spits and seems to be spreading I've had my led light quite close to the tip pf the canopy around 12-15 inches as ran out of room to move light up. Ph of soil is roughly around 6.8 any help much appreciated.

 

[denoss]

Ignore broken splits was ment to say brown spots, I'm guessing it's light burn as the brown spots are on the top leaves closest to light does anyone know if I cut the top leaves off will the buds at top still grow?

 

[Mikedin]

Ignore broken splits was ment to say brown spots, I'm guessing it's light burn as the brown spots are on the top leaves closest to light does anyone know if I cut the top leaves off will the buds at top still grow?

What are you feeding? And how much / often. Looks like beginning of some cal def, possibly a bit light on nitrogen as well, she’s a bit light.

I would not remove the leaves just due to a few brown spots, the leaf is still photosynthesizing, if it’s cal def she’ll eventually curl up and die and that’s when I’d remove them until they they are still beneficial to the plants growth
She’s a nice sized auto though!

 

[denoss]

I'm feeding terra flora once a week following a 420 fast buds feeding schedule I'll give it a lil bit of terra vega next feed, but I was thinking it's light burn/ stress as the brown spots are on the top leafs only closest to light.

thankyou for help

 

[denoss]

What are you feeding? And how much / often. Looks like beginning of some cal def, possibly a bit light on nitrogen as well, she’s a bit light.

I would not remove the leaves just due to a few brown spots, the leaf is still photosynthesizing, if it’s cal def she’ll eventually curl up and die and that’s when I’d remove them until they they are still beneficial to the plants growth
She’s a nice sized auto though!

Also do you know if these brown spots will spread to other leaves as all the top leaves now have spots and what do you recommend I do?

 

[Mikedin]

Hoping someone with more knowledge with liquid neuts jumps in, but if it is cal, cal-mag issue it appears correct showing top first, closest to the light.

You’re week 6 (from seed I imagine you’re about week 3ish of flower it’s right about when they usually begin to want it)

How much cal and mag is in the neuts you are using?

 

[denoss]

Hoping someone with more knowledge with liquid neuts jumps in, but if it is cal, cal-mag issue it appears correct showing top first, closest to the light.

You’re week 6 (from seed I imagine you’re about week 3ish of flower it’s right about when they usually begin to want it)

How much cal and mag is in the neuts you are using?

I haven't been using any cal or mag, should I get some cal mag biobizz and will that sort the problem then?

 

[Bdubs]

If you are administering nutes yourself and not organic, CalMag is great to add. Otherwise she is only getting what is available in the tap water. I use 1-2ml/gal of CalMag throughout the grow until the very end. It wont hurt at all to get some going in her feed. I have never had these deficiencies since I started growing but I’ve also always used CalMag.

 

[Bdubs]

The idea of magnesium is that it is a core building block for photosynthesis and absorption of light. When a deficiency of magnesium shows up, it can be in the form of light burn and browning. The plant can’t take more light from a deficiency of Mag and therefore burns the leaf. With a magnesium deficiency also follows a lesser ability to process phosphorus and enzyme creation is hindered. Which can show up as other deficiencies basically pointing back to magnesium. I think this is why so many people with a deficiency showing up, people always recommend magnesium, but can be difficult to indenting if not spotted earlier. It may be misconstrued as to needing other nutrients and leads to toxicity of the other nutrients because it just can’t perform the correct reactions with the low magnesium availability.

 

[Bdubs]

Basically. Add CalMag and your lights are fine. She will be able to process the higher light intensity if she can get more magnesium and in turn will use more P in her processing.

If you don’t want to use CalMag, raise the light or reduce intensity. But this always means less yield and potency.

 

[denoss]

Basically. Add CalMag and your lights are fine. She will be able to process the higher light intensity if she can get more magnesium and in turn will use more P in her processing.

If you don’t want to use CalMag, raise the light or reduce intensity. But this always means less yield and potency.

Okay thankyou for your information I will start using cal mag also I do you use ph down biobizz everytime I water as my ph of the water is around 8.0 I use ph down to about 6.0-6.5

 

[Bdubs]

Okay thankyou for your information I will start using cal mag also I do you use ph down biobizz everytime I water as my ph of the water is around 8.0 I use ph down to about 6.0-6.5

That’s great. Every so often, check the PPM of the runout to determine if she is ignoring nutrients. If you do that regularly, it can help you identify issues before they show up in the plant. It is another process, but it is the same process as measuring PPM in hydro every day that you check Ph. It is just a slower process of diagnosis in soil. So you do catch things like PPM creep a little bit later. Hence, why soil growers need to flush if they get wild PPM rise, they are usually a few days behind on identifying nute lockout.

 

[Bdubs]

If the leafs show deficiency, it is typically something that has been happening for a while and it just takes some time for the plant to show it visually. Monitoring runout for PPM and Ph changes always allows for early diagnosis . Ph should increase slowly, that’s fine and 100% healthy, just no wild swings.

 

[Bdubs]

That CalMag is going to kick up this girls production and reward you for reaching out! Add the calmag and make no adjustments to your feed schedule/mix. If you want another critical nutrient that can help dramatically, along with the calmag, is Floralicious by gh. You’ll use 1-2ml/gallon of it all grow and taper off last couple weeks, same as the calmag.

 

[denoss]

OK so my ppm when I put nute in is around 500 ppm, I've only done a runoff once and my ph was 7.4 but I didn't check the ppm so say I check it and its way over a 1000 ppm do I need to flush? What should my ppm be around week 6 on auto?

Sorry I'm abit of a noob when it's comes to growing.

 

[Bdubs]

If your PPM jumped 2x fold feed amount, and 500PPM is your target, a flush will make sense. But the problem with flushing, especially in flower, is that you sacrifice growth time as it will shock/stunt it for 3 days after you’ve completed the flush. So it should be done but you sacrifice growth time, but alternatively you are already stressing the plant by having a high concentration of nutrient salts in the soil that the plant just isn’t using and will keep accumulating and will cause the same damage or more.
Flush in that instance is always a smart move. If it were hydro, you’d simply replace the reservoir with proper mix and keep trucking.

But in essence it is the price to pay for a small mistake. And flushing has its drawbacks. But is it more important to reset the plants concentration or let it go and reduce your future feeds until it can stabilize, risking deficiency along the way.

It’s like a slap in the face that we did something wrong or just let it go unchecked kinda deal.

 

[Bdubs]

Usually when I notice a nutrient lockout in my grows, hydro, it is usually near or at the same time when I should be switching to my next step of nutrient feed. She tells me she wants more bloom. Like from early grow to mid grow or late veg to early grow. So I pay close attention to PPM fluctuations when I get closer to the scheduled feed changes. Because we know that just because a schedule says when to switch, the plants are all different and will tell us what’s going on. This specific deal is true when you have all nutrients dialed in and no deficiencies. She will tell you when she is ready for the next stage of feed mix. This is based on adjustments on analysis of the
PPM and less on time or schedule.
For instance, when I am in late veg feed and she pulls a 200ppm swing one random day, I am 2 days from switching up anyways, I’ll push her to the early growth and that’s when I flip flop my nitrogen and bloom into the next phase. Kinda telling me she is done with the nitrogen and wants more bloom.

 

[Bdubs]

You are in soil though and you’re going to accumulate salts anyways and so this tactic may not work the same. Maybe someone can chime on that. I’ve seen people keep pushing and althought feeding 1200ppm, by end of the grow before flush their soil is 2200 and the plants are just fine.

 

[denoss]

I don't think I have nute lockout but I could be wrong I've only just water it yesterday so going to wait untill completely dry then ill do run off and check Ppm and ph also will get some cal mag. after all this if leaves don't get better then do I just cut them off?

 

[3cats]

Wedding glue auto on week 6 top leafs have broken spits and seems to be spreading I've had my led light quite close to the tip pf the canopy around 12-15 inches as ran out of room to move light up. Ph of soil is roughly around 6.8 any help much appreciated.

Look at this feed chart and try to follow it with your nutes, Reg veg nutes until week 2-3 of flower then the other elements are needed