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brand7778
- Posts
- 15
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- Joined
- Jul 19, 2014
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- 3
Good morning and welcome to the farm!Hi everybody,
This is my first grow ever.....(!)
It's a White Russian, 5 weeks, in a 3 gallon container with a mix of 33% vermiculite, 33% potting soil ( already pre-fertilized for 3 weeks) and 33% topsoil from my garden.
I gave it 24H light; in my garden during the day, and three LEDS of 75W equivalence during the night.
7 days ago there were 4 days of very bad weather with summer shower rains and cold temps ( around 18 degrees celsius) and they stayed in the garden during all this time, as there was no one to take them inside the house.
It's when i started having problems:
Tiny brown spots started appearing on the middle leaves, looking like calcium deficiency:
Here's a close-up:
Then the color of the leaves went darker, and their tips started to dip:
I have too bugs of all sorts starting appearing at the same time: leaf miners on the very bottom leaves
Here's a close-up:
I think on this image, both the calcium deficit and the leaf-miner show themselves.
Then i have another problem: tiny white spots on one of the middle leaves:
Yet, I can't see any bugs crawling on my leaves.
A close-up seems to show, after many hours of head scratching by me, white mites ( tarsonemediae) which is very bad news...
The new shoots at the top seem healthy:
But in a close-up, one can see tiny holes already appearing:
Other middle leaves are showing the same tiny holes, with no visible bugs:
Here's a close-up:
Do my diagnosis stand ?
The PH of my soil is between 6.20 and 6.70, which seems perfect.(measured with a digital PH meter on moist soil)
I did not give them any fertilizer at all until now, as i hoped the soil mix i prepared would suffice.
My tap water is 150 ppm, and i always adjust the PH to 7.
Neem oil, pyrethrum to control the pests ?
Thanks for your help and patience with a first grower.
In the meantime, you'll need to start thinking about feeding. I'm a fan of Dr. Earth dry mix fertilizers, they can be used as top-dressing, in soil prep or made into teas.
Once cannabis begins 'kicking in' (with growth) it's going to be EXPLOSIVE and it goes through a lot of food.
Do not do that. Do not force them back into vegetative growth phase and expect them to produce buds for you. What you'll get will be a leafy mess that's a huge pain to even try to trim up. Once they're in flower, keep them going. You can certainly transplant into the ground once they've started flowering, but do not, I repeat DO NOT FLIP BACK TO VEG or you will be very sorry you did it.Well, after the plants will indicate, i will transfer them into the ground in my garden ( so not in containers) and revert them to vegetative state for one more month before flowering them.
Yes, makes perfect sense and as long as you use soil food web methods, absolutely, the plants will "find" what they need already in the soil. Organic cultivation begins and ends with this one concept--feed the soil, not the plant.I suppose once into the soil, the cannabis will find enough nutrients by itself for both vegetative and flowering ?
My soil has a PH of 6.85 (when not wetted) and 6.30 ( when wetted; if that makes sense, lol)
I would at this time because the plant is containerized. If it's an organic fertilizer it won't easily overfeed the plant.It drains well and has a good texture; do you think i need to add the dry fertilizer to it ?
Yes, along with direct feeds and foliars.If god forbid i encounter a nutrient deficiency later on during flowering, does adding fertilizers to the soil correct the problem ?
Do not do that. Do not force them back into vegetative growth phase and expect them to produce buds for you. What you'll get will be a leafy mess that's a huge pain to even try to trim up. Once they're in flower, keep them going. You can certainly transplant into the ground once they've started flowering, but do not, I repeat DO NOT FLIP BACK TO VEG or you will be very sorry you did it.
Is the plant currently flowering?
I am confused by your original lighting description.
Absolutely unequivocal, and it's based on my direct experience with clones (sexually mature plants) and seed starts (immature, non-sexed plants) and growing indoors and out and the time it takes to get a good harvest.:nailbiting:
You seem quite categorical.
I always value more the advice of experienced individual growers like yourself over commercial books like Rosenthal, etc...
Could you elaborate on this more, or if that's too lengthy, point me to an online source on why flipping back to veggie is a bad idea ?
Does this advice apply too when it comes to regenerating a plant ( harvesting once, not killing the plant and steering it back into veggie for a second harvest later on) ?
I've heard a clone will grow as big as a seed, when placed in similar growing conditions ( although with no sizeable taproot): could you confirm ?
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