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  • Thread starter Thread starter OgGrowingDro
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Please help:(

OgGrowingDro May 19, 2020 45 Replies 5,835 Views
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OgGrowingDro

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#1
Hey guys having an issue with one of my gals here and its looking like the others might follow if I dont fix it.
setup:
20 gal RDWC 4 plants AUTO NorthernLights
Ph gaurdian monitor
3 leds (800 real watts) 18:6
Temps: 68-82 water: 66-73 RH: 50%
Hydrogaurd(2mls per g), DG Protekt Silica(1.5-2mls per g), floralicious plus(.75ml per g), calimagic, GH trio (currently using 1ml micro to 10 mls bloom no grow )
RO<25
PH: I have a problem where I cant get my ph to rise with this grow and last, I believe it has something to do with air quality but im not sure, it stays pretty solid but will maybe drop a point every other day or so
Ec: accidentally burned the plants a lil ik :/ but ec never rose much at all it was staying at 2.0 (slowly increased nutes throughout grow) for a long time and it slowly started rising(.1 after 2-3 days), I dropped it to 1.6 at first sight and I thought maybe I was giving too much regular nutes and not enough calimagic because i have been seeing tiny spots like this since late veg and it seemed raising calmag helped for a little while (went from .4 ec to like 3-4mls per g) then after maybe 2 week or so the problem started getting worse for the small plant. I dropped the nutes and added like 5 mls of calmag it continued getting worse(3 plants looked super healthy just the smallest having issues at first) and ec slowly started rising and i dropped it to 1.4 it rises .1 after like 2 days and calmag is 1.0 ec I know autos require less nutes than photos and that calcium is very important in my situation but thats too much isnt it? Now my healthy plants are starting to show symptoms. I also noticed the small plant is much further in flower than the others and im worried its gonna happen to the rest :/. I have had the plants sitting in .5 ec water just calmag overnight to try and flush them out. Im about to make more nutrients and looking for advice. Id really like to get this problem figured out because its caused too many headaches throughout my last grow and I had came to the conclusion I wasnt giving enough calcium in the end. If I missed anything please feel free to ask questions thank you! (Photos of when first plant started to get bad and now)
 

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Nate_in_AK

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#2
OgGrowingDro said:
I believe it has something to do with air quality
Click to expand...
What makes you think it has to do with air? I don't have an opinion, just interested in the reasoning since I don't see it mentioned very often.
 
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OgGrowingDro

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#3
Sorry if you misunderstood but i only think that about the ph, i do not believe it is causing the issues because there weren't always problems with the plants before but ive always had issues with the ph drop. I follow this chart and everything that says ph falls calls for rez change or acid rain effect or something to the nature. But all i know is im lucky if my ph rises even .1 before it starts to fall and the plants were doing really well. I posted this in another form and they were saying that 1ml micro to 10ml bloom is not enough micro causing the issue. I guess it makes sense because i thought it would be okay to cut out a lot of N since i was using so much calmag but they were saying i need more micro less calmag (i was at first under the impression as long as the micros are there its okay) so im gonna see what happens upping micro
 
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Nate_in_AK

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#4
I see
My feeding chart (Growth Science Nutrients) shows a pretty massive increase (triple) in phospheric acid and potassium hydroxide for bloom.
 
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OgGrowingDro

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#5
If you dont mind my asking how much calcium do you give your plants in comparison to other nutrients?
 
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growsince79

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#6
Instead of mixing 8 different bottles, maybe you can use a balanced formula. One bottle should be all you need.
 
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OgGrowingDro

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#7
Im sorry I know they are not necessarily "needed" but i know what each does and i know im not over doing them. Hydrogaurd is very beneficial if not running sterile sytem with higher temps, floralicious aids in nutrient availability which helps deficiencies... silica? Strong stems i dont feel like staking my plants and i need ca/mg for RO water and obviously base nutes so ill stick with what i got
 
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Nate_in_AK

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#8
OgGrowingDro said:
If you dont mind my asking how much calcium do you give your plants in comparison to other nutrients?
Click to expand...
I don't give them anything other than the GSN food (and Southern AG anti-fungal)
 
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Aqua Man

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#9
Way to many nutes. Cut back to 500-600ppm. I would do a full res change

In this order!!!
Start with RO add silica 1ml per gal then ph down to 6.2 test ppm, then add cal mag to increase that by 100ppm. Then add nutrients to bring the ppm up to 500-600ppm abd then add hydrogaurd.

You cant flush a plant in hydro it doesn't work that way. The damaged leaves will NOT get better. And leave the floralicious out for now
 
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MIMedGrower

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#10
@Aqua Man beat me too it. I want to add that the nute ratio is off. Need more micro than 1 ml to 10ml bloom. And excess cal mag made it worse.
 
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Beachwalker

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#11
 
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OgGrowingDro

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#12
I always start with silica then calmag always added 200 ppms in veg and i was seeing spots so i had increased it to 3mls not checking the ppms but it seemed to make it better at the time and i do rez changes weekly no more than 2 weeks I know i pushed them too far on accident and i backed off as soon as i realized and could and got the ec down to 1.4 with a rez change i was using a 213 ratio throughout most of the grow and was seeing problems when I tried to change to a higher PK less N ratio a lot of these problems started showing up and getting worse and i didn't even think of it late veg i thought i had it under control but it got away :( and ik flushing isnt like soil but i thought it would be a good idea till i could here from others and decide what to do because i know it was getting worse, thank you guys I appreciate your comments and am definitely going to take the advice
 
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Aqua Man

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#13
OgGrowingDro said:
I always start with silica then calmag always added 200 ppms in veg and i was seeing spots so i had increased it to 3mls not checking the ppms but it seemed to make it better at the time and i do rez changes weekly no more than 2 weeks I know i pushed them too far on accident and i backed off as soon as i realized and could and got the ec down to 1.4 with a rez change i was using a 213 ratio throughout most of the grow and was seeing problems when I tried to change to a higher PK less N ratio a lot of these problems started showing up and getting worse and i didn't even think of it late veg i thought i had it under control but it got away :( and ik flushing isnt like soil but i thought it would be a good idea till i could here from others and decide what to do because i know it was getting worse, thank you guys I appreciate your comments and am definitely going to take the advice
Click to expand...
If you change out all the water the ppm should be what the RO is. At this point I would drain the system entirely and pour RO water through the top of each site to remove any residual salts. Then drain that and start fresh. Cal mag only 100ppm. Also go back to the nute ratio for weeks 2-3 of flower of what's commonly referred to transition. But the max ppm should be about 600ppm after everything is added.
 
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Nate_in_AK

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#14
In no way meant to contradict @Aqua Man , I had been trying to follow this chart guide: https://autoflowerseedshop.com/ppm-levels-for-cannabis-plants/
 
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AnselAdams

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#15
OgGrowingDro said:
Hey guys having an issue with one of my gals here and its looking like the others might follow if I dont fix it.
setup:
20 gal RDWC 4 plants AUTO NorthernLights
Ph gaurdian monitor
3 leds (800 real watts) 18:6
Temps: 68-82 water: 66-73 RH: 50%
Hydrogaurd(2mls per g), DG Protekt Silica(1.5-2mls per g), floralicious plus(.75ml per g), calimagic, GH trio (currently using 1ml micro to 10 mls bloom no grow )
RO<25
PH: I have a problem where I cant get my ph to rise with this grow and last, I believe it has something to do with air quality but im not sure, it stays pretty solid but will maybe drop a point every other day or so
Ec: accidentally burned the plants a lil ik :/ but ec never rose much at all it was staying at 2.0 (slowly increased nutes throughout grow) for a long time and it slowly started rising(.1 after 2-3 days), I dropped it to 1.6 at first sight and I thought maybe I was giving too much regular nutes and not enough calimagic because i have been seeing tiny spots like this since late veg and it seemed raising calmag helped for a little while (went from .4 ec to like 3-4mls per g) then after maybe 2 week or so the problem started getting worse for the small plant. I dropped the nutes and added like 5 mls of calmag it continued getting worse(3 plants looked super healthy just the smallest having issues at first) and ec slowly started rising and i dropped it to 1.4 it rises .1 after like 2 days and calmag is 1.0 ec I know autos require less nutes than photos and that calcium is very important in my situation but thats too much isnt it? Now my healthy plants are starting to show symptoms. I also noticed the small plant is much further in flower than the others and im worried its gonna happen to the rest :/. I have had the plants sitting in .5 ec water just calmag overnight to try and flush them out. Im about to make more nutrients and looking for advice. Id really like to get this problem figured out because its caused too many headaches throughout my last grow and I had came to the conclusion I wasnt giving enough calcium in the end. If I missed anything please feel free to ask questions thank you! (Photos of when first plant started to get bad and now)
Click to expand...


Good Evening;
I believe what you have is Septoria Leaf Spot. I had the same problem on my last grow that is now in harvest. Please start with the link below and I think you will see that the two conditions look to be pretty close to the same. The link drops you at the place in my grow log where the issue is defined and so is the remedy. Regalia-CG

Ansel Adams Hydro Adventures Journal

Roger that... @ $90 for a quart, it will have to wait until I get paid on Friday. I have isolated the plant to its own cabinet just to be safe. Thanks for the heads-up guys. That is why i love this site.... 🤞 🤞 p.s. I also removed the leaves with the spots and everything below. . . ...
www.thcfarmer.com

Good Luck and Happy Growing
 
Last edited: May 19, 2020
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Aqua Man

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#16
Nate_in_AK said:
In no way meant to contradict @Aqua Man , I had been trying to follow this chart guide: https://autoflowerseedshop.com/ppm-levels-for-cannabis-plants/
Click to expand...
We all have our opinions man. I'm far from always right. The best part of these forums is collectively we can usually get to the bottom of things.
 
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Aqua Man

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#17
Nate_in_AK said:
In no way meant to contradict @Aqua Man , I had been trying to follow this chart guide: https://autoflowerseedshop.com/ppm-levels-for-cannabis-plants/
Click to expand...
Ime I have found almost all recommendations of ppms to be very high. But it will depend on individual grow rooms. In hydro and especially with autos I feel 600ppm would be the max and even 400pp should be good.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#18
Nate_in_AK said:
In no way meant to contradict @Aqua Man , I had been trying to follow this chart guide: https://autoflowerseedshop.com/ppm-levels-for-cannabis-plants/
Click to expand...


Thing about ppm recommendations is that different environments, light, strains, plant size and even which nutrients we use all are variables to proper ppm’s needed.

Best advice i ever got was to keep the ec between 1.0 and 1.5. (500-750ppm max)

That chart shows 1600 ppm. 3.2 ec. Maybe for a 14 foot tree. Maybe.
 
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AnselAdams

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#19
Aqua Man said:
Ime I have found almost all recommendations of ppms to be very high. But it will depend on individual grow rooms. In hydro and especially with autos I feel 600ppm would be the max and even 400pp should be good.
Click to expand...

Is that before or after enzymes?

2nd. How in hell are you doing 4-600 ppm fairy dust.....? That is barley short of fresh well-water... lol I "thought" i was doing well to get down to 800. then POP! you had to go and stick a pin in my pipe :-) dream. lol

What would life be without goals? Bar just got lowered. Challenge accepted! AquaMan I will get there! I promise

400ppm wow.. smh... and still smiling...
 
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Aqua Man

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#20
AnselAdams said:
Is that before or after enzymes?

2nd. How in hell are you doing 4-600 ppm fairy dust.....? That is barley short of fresh well-water... lol I "thought" i was doing well to get down to 800. then POP! you had to go and stick a pin in my pipe :-) dream. lol

What would life be without goals? Bar just got lowered. Challenge accepted! AquaMan I will get there! I promise

400ppm wow.. smh... and still smiling...
Click to expand...
Yup I'm telling ya bro these plants 600ppm eating like hogs though at over 5 gal a day for the 4 plants. Remember it's grow specific so some may like a bit more or less. If you follow VPD you optimize nutrient uptake. When temp and humidity are out then you may need a bit more or less. I would say range of 500-800 is about the limits depending on humidity and temps which equal nutrient uptake.
 
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Replies 45
Views 5,835
Started May 19, 2020
Latest post May 21, 2020
Starter OgGrowingDro
Forum Hydroponics

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