Possible Nitrogen Deficiency

[SparcOne]

Hi, my outdoor Kush plant is one week into flower and in my opinion is in need of a nitrogen boost. The overall plant is not a dark green as I like plus some lower fan leaves are starting to yellow. The plant I harvested before this dropped way too many fan leaves in the early flowering period so I’m trying my best to avoid that. I’ve added some photos to hopefully help you help me with a diagnosis. TIA

 

[oldskol4evr]

yellowing between the veins usally mean maganese,could be cal and mag also,cant see the whole plant so really just a guess

 

[SparcOne]

yellowing between the veins usally mean maganese,could be cal and mag also,cant see the whole plant so really just a guess

 

[SparcOne]

Thanks for the info mate, I just posted a photo of the whole plant.. unfortunately it stretched a little before it went to flower but other than that looks ok

 

[SparcOne]

One more from the other side

 

[oldskol4evr]

View attachment 904184

thats what i wanted to see,that plant looks great,i see it pretty bushy but not enough to block out light,thats a 18 gal pot right,what kind soil you have?

 

[oldskol4evr]

One more from the other side View attachment 904191

ya i see the top yellowing a little,so both symptoms,do you know how to do a slurry test? the transition is probally whats up but a ph check wouldnt hurt just for knowing ,the slurry will let you know ,im thinking your really early stage of locking up,what did you recently change as feed schedule

 

[SparcOne]

Thanks, yes her structure is quite nice, I topped it a few times to let it bush it out. Yes 18 gal. Soil is an emended mix I made
Potting mix, compost, chicken manure, rice husks, crushed sea shells, shredded coconut husk and wood chips but I’ve since realised the potting mix component was of horrible quality and really non-aerated. Most of this is D.I.Y so the shells are collected and crushed by me, coconut hand shredded etc.. I live in the jungle in Central America so sourcing good products has been a challenge but I now have one finished compost pile which I’ve been top feeding on to this plant for hopefully a nitrogen boost but not seeing it. I’m now working with multiple compost piles and started a worm bed 1 month ago. I’m also playing around with some JADAM(KNF) techniques but honestly haven’t seen big benefits. I’ve recently found a great Ma and Pa style garden store and their soil is great so it’s going to get better for me in as I dial it in.

thats what i wanted to see,that plant looks great,i see it pretty bushy but not enough to block out light,thats a 18 gal pot right,what kind soil you have?

 

[SparcOne]

I have briefly read about the slurry test but not sure exactly how it’s done. I only managed to source a PH meter half way the through the life of this girl so it was getting fed the wrong PH for about half of it’s veg life. So there’s a good chance the PH of the soil is out because of that. I’m feeling your right about the early stages of ‘lock out’ that’s my main concern because my last plant in the same soil mix basically didn’t have a fan leaf left my week 5/6.

ya i see the top yellowing a little,so both symptoms,do you know how to do a slurry test? the transition is probally whats up but a ph check wouldnt hurt just for knowing ,the slurry will let you know ,im thinking your really early stage of locking up,what did you recently change as feed schedule

 

[SparcOne]

Feeding schedule is pretty much the same, actually this week it’s been mostly straight rain water but tomorrow they get hit with some nutes I brought from the ma and pa store which is made from worm leachate and some other organic products.

ya i see the top yellowing a little,so both symptoms,do you know how to do a slurry test? the transition is probally whats up but a ph check wouldnt hurt just for knowing ,the slurry will let you know ,im thinking your really early stage of locking up,what did you recently change as feed schedule

I have briefly read about the slurry test but not sure exactly how it’s done. I only managed to source a PH meter half way the through the life of this girl so it was getting fed the wrong PH for about half of it’s veg life. So there’s a good chance the PH of the soil is out because of that. I’m feeling your right about the early stages of ‘lock out’ that’s my main concern because my last plant in the same soil mix basically didn’t have a fan leaf left my week 5/6.

 

[Dirtbag]

Manganese is immobile so usually shows up on new growth. Older growth yellowing is typically a mobile nutrient deficiency like nitrogen or magnesium. Some of your pics show clear interveinal chlorosis, typical of magnesium deficiency.

Also straight rainwater will create osmotic stress to the rootzone, it's best to bring it up to 100-150ppm with calmag first.

 

[SparcOne]

Also top yellowing in this photo is more the suns reflections, it’s basically the same colour all over except for the few fan leaves yellowing at the bottom

ya i see the top yellowing a little,so both symptoms,do you know how to do a slurry test? the transition is probally whats up but a ph check wouldnt hurt just for knowing ,the slurry will let you know ,im thinkin your really early stage of locking up,what did you recently change as feed schedule

 

[oldskol4evr]

I have briefly read about the slurry test but not sure exactly how it’s done. I only managed to source a PH meter half way the through the life of this girl so it was getting fed the wrong PH for about half of it’s veg life. So there’s a good chance the PH of the soil is out because of that. I’m feeling your right about the early stages of ‘lock out’ that’s my main concern because my last plant in the same soil mix basically didn’t have a fan leaf left my week 5/6.

take about 1/4 cup of your soil,mix with ro water or distilled,fill the cup,then stir it real good and let it settle about 30 min to hour,stick your ph pen right in the middle of water,above the soil and below whats floating,the liquid will give you your ph,easy as that,when you know your soil ph most problems end and fixing begins

 

[oldskol4evr]

Also top yellowing in this photo is more the suns reflections, it’s basically the same colour all over except for the few fan leaves yellowing at the bottom

both directions look the same to me top light and bottom dark,that a big ole plant that could use some room to,but staying on top of it root bound or not you can still finish it out,i had a clone that was started in a jiffy puck,them roots got so deep and spread out,every time i added soil week later that puck would be on the surface of the soil,finished it out with no room left in a 18 gallon pot,when the puck got about 3 inchs out of the soil it stop trying to go higher haaahah look like a cypress tree on a river bank with spider legs lmao

 

[SparcOne]

Thanks for the info, wifey is picking up some buffer to calibrate my PH reader after she finishes work so I’ll check it then. Is rain fresh rain water ok to use? As I mentioned I live out with the monkeys so not even a corner store close by. I also have a basic water purifier that we drink out of but not sure if it’s RO grade

take about 1/4 cup of your soil,mix with ro water or distilled,fill the cup,then stir it real good and let it settle about 30 min to hour,stick your ph pen right in the middle of water,above the soil and below whats floating,the liquid will give you your ph,easy as that,when you know your soil ph most problems end and fixing begins

hab

 

[oldskol4evr]

Thanks for the info, wifey is picking up some buffer to calibrate my PH reader after she finishes work so I’ll check it then. Is rain fresh rain water ok to use? As I mentioned I live out with the monkeys so not even a corner store close by. I also have a basic water purifier that we drink out of but not sure if it’s RO grade


hab

i havent had a chance ot read this yet ,just found it yesterday,might help,im not sure about the rain water,check it to see what the ph is on it first ,your shooting for 6.5 in soil so the last ro i bought was a 7.0 ph and 005 ppm ,if the water is that or under 6.5 i would use it,under it would give you a better reading because you looking for 6.5 if you dig what im saying

 

[SparcOne]

I think a lack of magnesium could actually be the right answer. Do you have a recommended solution or product?

I’ve never heard that about rain water but what I’ve whitnessed while I was working on commercial farms in Cali is the full season plants loved a bit of rain as long as they weren’t heavy in to flower, they always smiled afterwards

Manganese is immobile so usually shows up on new growth. Older growth yellowing is typically a mobile nutrient deficiency like nitrogen or magnesium. Some of your pics show clear interveinal chlorosis, typical of magnesium deficiency.

Also straight rainwater will create osmotic stress to the rootzone, it's best to bring it up to 100-150ppm with calmag first.

 

[SparcOne]

I agree about the pot size.. thing is I wasn’t planning on flipping it so late but because we are in the heart of wettest time of the year to avoid bud rot I waited another 6 weeks and she grew out. I know what your thinking you don’t flip an outdoor plant but because it’s a natural 12/12 light cycle all year here and as long as you add more light during veg you can flower when ever you like which equals multiple outdoor harvests a year. I’m putting up a green house this month so should be consistently harvesting every 8 to 10 weeks. It’s like indoor growing with better natural free sun, just gotta get this soil right

both directions look the same to me top light and bottom dark,that a big ole plant that could use some room to,but staying on top of it root bound or not you can still finish it out,i had a clone that was started in a jiffy puck,them roots got so deep and spread out,every time i added soil week later that puck would be on the surface of the soil,finished it out with no room left in a 18 gallon pot,when the puck got about 3 inchs out of the soil it stop trying to go higher haaahah look like a cypress tree on a river bank with spider legs lmao

planning o

 

[SparcOne]

I couldn’t see the link mate?
My rain water is 6.5 and it’s not a collected after the first rains of the year I wait till about a month of solid rain before I start collecting that way it’s a lot purer

QUOTE="oldskol4evr, post: 2305629

, member: 70456"]
i havent had a chance ot read this yet ,just found it yesterday,might help,im not sure about the rain water,check it to see what the ph is on it first ,your shooting for 6.5 in soil so the last ro i bought was a 7.0 ph and 005 ppm ,if the water is that or under 6.5 i would use it,under it would give you a better reading because you looking for 6.5 if you dig what im saying

 

[Dirtbag]

Rainwater should have 0ppm. You cant get a reliable ph reading off that because water needs ions to have either a positive or negative charge, not to mention it will damage a ph probe if using a ph pen. Rainwater will usually be slightly acidic though due to carbonic acid produced by exposure to carbon dioxide in the atmosphere as it falls from the sky, but it's an extremely unstable ph because the actual amount of negatively charged ions is so small it takes an infinitesimally small amount of positively charged hydroxide ions to counteract it.

For example, you could take 5 gallons of rainwater with a ph of 5.5 and add 1ml of a positively charged cation such as potassium hydroxide, and the ph would rise dramatically. Whereas a solution with a lot of ions like a strong nutrient solution with ph 5.5, would be almost unchanged by the addition of such a small amount of hydroxide ions. Adding straight rainwater to a medium, the water will quickly buffer to whatever the ph of the medium is, based on what ions are stored in the cation bank.

The issue with rainwater is the fact that its 0ppm. Severe changes in solute concentrations in the media can stress the plant out. It's always better to use a dilute nutrient solution than pure water.
for organically grown plants it's less of an issue because the soil is constantly feeding the plant, not the nutrient solution you pour in the pot.

My recommendation if you use rainwater is to use something like calmag plus to bring it up to 100-150ppm, whether you are feeding other nutrients or not.