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GreenfingeredGoblin
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Have already moved the lights up in the last couple of days :)More info ? Looks to b light and or heat stress - what and how much are you feeding ?
first move the light up and give us your temps and humidity levels
I have read elsewhere that a PH of 6.0 6.2 is optimal for coco, can you tell me why lower would be better? Cheers :)I personally would lower pH a few points and what are you using to feed?
Still looking pretty good though but I think you may be on the edge of not so good.
I have read elsewhere that a PH of 6.0 6.2 is optimal for coco, can you tell me why lower would be better? Cheers :)
Humidity to high fir flower try to get it down 55 or so are your pots sitting on the floor ? 20 is a little cool for the roots - if your sitting on the floor get something under them - leaves won’t recover keep cking new growth .Have already moved the lights up in the last couple of days :)
I am feeding canna coco A+B at 1.3 but I did push it up to 1.5 at one point but backed off when I saw slight nutrient burn :(
Temps are 20c at floor level and 22-23c at canopy level although I suspect it could be higher for the plants in the centre with air being trapped. Humidity is high at 70-80%
I already have a cool tube and the lights are as far as they can go, had issues with stretching which I guess also implies heat :(
Heat, and or windThis is heat stress. It is not N toxicity. While the pH might be slightly high, I see no pH-related problems with these plants.
There's a better answer. It could easily be both, one or the other.Heat, and or wind
Thank you for the information I will definitely be looking into it tonight :)The coco we buy is normally ~6.4 pH or so, so, it will try and pull the pH up.
Also every time I use coco, I need to water with 5.7 pH (at the highest), if I want the healthiest plants. I use 1.2-1.3 ec, general purpose nutes, never had nute issue in soil, coco, anything else I can find to grow in, only pH issues when I'm to lazy to stay on top of it.
Lastly, the only scientist I know (Dr. Bruce Bugbee (at utah state and grows for nasa)), ~confirms this, suggesting ("for all growing mediums"), ~ 5.7- 6.0 pH waterings, with runoff never outside ~5.6-6.2 pH. That is going off of memory, which is poor, so don't quote me, but it's close. Unless Ed Rosenthal is also a scientist but he suggest ~the same numbers.
p.s. In case you care, Bruce Bugbee also suggest 1.3 e.c. medium always, with general purpose nutes, clostest to 2-1-2.
Do you have any advice for lowering humidity? I cant use a de-humidifier unfortunately :( I've already defoilated and I'm trying to keep temps higher but I'm having heat stress issues...this run has been so scuffedHumidity to high fir flower try to get it down 55 or so are your pots sitting on the floor ? 20 is a little cool for the roots - if your sitting on the floor get something under them - leaves won’t recover keep cking new growth .
What about the super dark green shiny leaves? Is this N related or all from heat? Interestingly the shortest plant is the worst which doesnt make a lot of sense to meThis is heat stress. It is not N toxicity. While the pH might be slightly high, I see no pH-related problems with these plants.
Ec in the medium can vary quite a bit from waterings and between but I never had a problem with it, also I used to water with a little runoff always so that helps keep from to much salt build up.Thank you for the information I will definitely be looking into it tonight :)
I will drop PH and see what happens :) do you never go higher than 1.3 ever?
Do you have any advice for lowering humidity? I cant use a de-humidifier unfortunately :( I've already defoilated and I'm trying to keep temps higher but I'm having heat stress issues...this run has been so scuffed
They are sitting on upside saucers with drainage holes, what temps would you recommend for pot level?
I was looking at them on Amazon as it goes yesterday, can I get away with a cheap one or do I need the bluelab supermega 5000?Do you have an IR thermomete? Used in cooking, but that will give you a good leaf surface temperature and you can confirm/deny if that’s the issue. It does look like the classic sign of heat/light stress though
cover anything that makes humidity. No fabric pots indoors imo, if I had the I would line them with a plastic bag. Cover top soil, helps to save water, make the soil dry out more evenly and keep humidity down. I use plastic pots and cover tops and bottoms with plastic, just loose on top so air can still get in slowly
ive heard coco not drying fast enough leads to algae and fungus gnats @TryingToGrow also what do you hate about fabric so muchcover anything that makes humidity. No fabric pots indoors imo, if I had the I would line them with a plastic bag. Cover top soil, helps to save water, make the soil dry out more evenly and keep humidity down. I use plastic pots and cover tops and bottoms with plastic, just loose on top so air can still get in slowly
if you have a heat and humidity issue the answer would be an a/c because it lowers both at the same timeI was looking at them on Amazon as it goes yesterday, can I get away with a cheap one or do I need the bluelab supermega 5000?
So would you say the benefits of fabric pots are not worth the increase in humidity?
First time using them, first time in coco tooalso I know it's hassle and you've already been more than helpful but I cant work out what you mean when you say covered... how do roots get oxygen if they are covered? Isnt
that a pain in the arse for watering everytime?
ive heard coco not drying fast enough leads to algae and fungus gnats @TryingToGrow also what do you hate about fabric so much
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