let me know how it goes mah man! Im sure everybody else would love to see the results in action! lets compare next time round.

pce

Kelp logic from beneficial bioligics who produce sea green, it's a powder and a npk of 0,1,18 I believe and works great in a tea or general feeding.

what about potassium nitrate? KNO3

is it harmful, lots of potassium and nitrogen?

i know it's cheap, $4 a pound as stump remover. i know it will rot a stump to nothing kinda quick but stump is already dead or dying. will adding a bit of kno3 to hydro harm anything?

i also know that kno3 plus charcoal plus sulfur go boom really loud.

i have what i think is a K- and am also trying to boost K levels on a budget plus a hydro store is 150 miles away and i only go once a year and to order high dollar hydro nutes off the net just kills the cost effectiveness.

KSO4 on ebay is about the same price as the KNO3 down on the corner. So which would be better? I have KNO3 in my chem storage cabinet, i want to try it but i don't want to kill anything.

what say the general consensus?

I haven't dealt with KNO3 but others do:

hey double S, good to hear from you again. thank you for the link.

a couple months ago i was out walking and saw a little slug crossing the road and thought of you and tried so hard to get a good clear pic of it or a decent video of him crawling so slow so i could send to you but i just couldn't get it to macro good enough for anything clear.

really good to see you again and i'm off to read up on what you sent.

thanks again. you and seamaiden are both awesome around here. what would we do without y'all?

hey that's one awesome website. just guessing and not being a chemist, i have KNO3 on hand, pure potassium nitrate, and i don't have the skills to do the molar mass and i assume that's how they get the numbers. their multi-k classic says potassium nitrate which i assume they mean pure, just like the stump remover is 13-0-46 so i have to assume stump remover pure KNO3 is about the same 13-0-46. weird to me since it has one k and on n per molecule, i would think it was 1-0-1 or something like that, equal.

man holy shit, those are some, ummm, well, uhhh, wow, i guess silly videos, but they do kinda point out some good stuff.

now i gotta figure out how much to mortar and pestle to add to my reservoir.

that was really awesome seaslug, thanks a million, really.

I'm honored to be mentioned in the same sentence as Seamaiden. :rolleyes:
Somebody on another cannabis site talked about using stump remover. It has been way too long since I studied chemistry (and I was never very good at it) but here is a cool periodic table:
http://www.ptable.com/
A mole of potassium has a mass of about 39 grams while a mole of nitrogen is 14 grams.
Edit: In the US, I believe the N-P-K ratio is determined by volume, not weight.
Anyway, from the haifa site:

Haifa sells sodium nitrate for fertilizer in bags up to 1200kg. That is a big bag.

as it turns out i had that periodic table already bookmarked. it IS one cool periodic table. right now i am watching videos about each element on TedEd[/COLOR]]http://ed.ted.com/periodic-videos and i am reading a couple of beginning chem books gearing up for college this fall. I ain't no chemist either but i wanna be one when i grow up, i mean IF i grow up. i just ain't sure how the molar mass is supposed to be used to determine how much i am supposed to add per gallon. that is where my train derails.

i even have the periodic table of elements shower curtain. thank you big bang theory for showing me that existed!!!!!

Haifa sells sodium nitrate for fertilizer in bags up to 1200kg. That is a big bag.

Click to expand...

holy shit, that is a big bag.

i am SURE there are others around here who also help others like you and Seamaiden, but the two of you have always answered questions of mine, replied, helped me out, etc. as it turns out, this particular question may be rhetorical, because i may not have to use it, although it isn't moot because i want to learn the theory behind it. i think i am just underfeeding and maybe the pH is off. this from tech support and Seamaiden respectively.

i read through an entire thread a while back on mixing your own salts and i learned a lot and forgot more than i learned. it ended up centered mainly around Jacks. long ass thread and it took me forever to get through it. read every word and i thought i was starting to understand but every new post just made it worse. turns out i just need instructions or an equation.

you and Seamaiden remind me of that old E. F. Hutton commercial.

another cool periodic table here

interactive, cool slider at the top that shows what elements are in what state at what temp as a whole table.

actually going back to the other one, it too has a slider, but the second one is easier to see and moves in smaller increments.

im curious how you know that the plants is K def? tissue analysis? Often nutrient related def. are pH related ime. and if your growing in soil anybodies guess could be valid.
and I would say @mekanic might be on to something here.

Good luck let us know what you find

and fwiw keep that N and K levels about the same throughout the grow and you will see very pleasing results

well it was a tentative Dx from Seamaiden in another thread on brown spots. it was on the lower leaves only and they had some yellowing.

turns out what it was, is i used rockwool starter cubes. in a 2" net pot. i tried to form them without crushing them, something you're not supposed to do because it compacts the medium and causes problems according to grodan. i did what we are taught from childhood can't be done, turns out you kinda can, but it causes issues.

don't be going round jammin square pegs into round holes. i was in there taking care of things and the pumps came on and the sprayers work so well that nutrient is making it around the rockwool and up and out of the bucket, onto the lower leaves, without surfactant, so they were getting foliar fed thirty minutes at a time multiple times a day.

AND, i had fed my plants too weakly at the last nute change or it would have been much worse. it has since self solved, they have gotten tall enough in this short of time, and the two leave most affected are dead and gone so no nutes are making it onto any leaves from me being a dumbass and not just going ahead and using a 2" puck the first time around. i regret using the rockwool and wish i could cut it off without doing damage. the weak nutes were causing the yellowing. last nute change i am at full veg and they are looking great and outpacing my ability to keep them outta the lights. i am moving the lights or plants daily now.

i am using the premixppm and trying to keep things right.

the Dx came from the leaf chart Seamaiden has in her sigline, brown spots on lower leaves because K is immobile, the necrosis is permanent. However i also had yellowing which i didn't notice because it was very light until i took the first pic. when i saw the pic the yellowing was very apparent.

i never went through even a seedling strength nute change because i was too afraid to bump it up too quickly. I ended up going straight from 1/2 or so seedling strength straight to full veg. skipping over the mild transition. we are humming along nicely now.

the thread on brown spots lead me to do more research on K- and boosting individual salt levels.

and BTW, the coolest periodic table out there, it has a video lesson on each and every individual element. http://ed.ted.com/periodic-videos

What's a good ratio to mix my potassium sulfate to a 5 gallon bucket for soil

6th week? Use r/o water and a potassium based pH up. (no chlorides)

deacon1503 said:

Potassium Silicate FTW

Click to expand...

Please, Never, ever, EVER, use Silicon from potassium silicate or silica in the root zone of a flowering plant.

Silicon/Silica is Awesome stuff, for veg and stretch, totally and completely a contaminant for cannabis flowers themselves. Adds, heat, harshness and completely destroys the natural frangibility of cannabis. Silicon/Silica is the number one reason cannabis is tough to break up these days.

Cannabis grown without contaminants is highly frangible. You can take a bud, push it *gently* against the side of a bowl and crush it. Place your thumb over the pile of frosty bits and gently pull out the *single non-branching* main stem, and press that frosty pile down into the bowl. Well grown cannabis does not ever need a grinder or scissors to break it up. :)

Don't believe me? Grow one plant without silicon/silica in your next run. You'll change your mind. ;)

Douglas