Thanks for that link, so for the 4 pod dosing system one is ph down, one calmag, one dynagrow, and one for just silicate?This... can use thier protek silica also and that will give you a ph buffer asi believe it's potassium silicate.
Dynagro is hard to beat. Very simple to use.So with RO depending on the nutrients it's extremely likely you will need to add alkalinity to buffer the ph or your going to get large ph swings.
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It's unlikely you will need cal mag depending on the nutrients used. But good to keep on hand.
If I was you I'd go with a 1 part like PBP grow or dynagro. This will ensure you keep a balanced nutrient profile. Especially if using a controller that doses based on ppm.
The system should be given nutrients based on the actual water volume and stage of growth.... 1 plant or 20 plants they should be the same. The only difference is less plants will cause less change over time and require less water changes.
Grow.
I use mega crop 2 part but that is a dry fert so no go on the dosing system... the dynagro will work easily in it.
You must add the silica first and allow to mix before adding anything else so you only add when changing the system imo.Thanks for that link, so for the 4 pod dosing system one is ph down, one calmag, one dynagrow, and one for just silicate?
Yeah but they only sell the bloom because of demand for it... its not needed and tbh bloom ratios are kinda a gimmick imo. Atleast they way they are marketed to be used.The OP should go to the dynagro website for best product selection. They also have bloom as I’m sure you know along with their KLN and others. I really like their products for use in my ebb & flow. They have great nutes.
AH okay, so not going to be needed for the dosing pump. There would be a separate 4 pods for veg and a separate 4 for flower. For the veg ph down, calmag, dynagro foliage pro, then probably thats it and for flower ph down calmag dynagro foliage pro or bloom? and maybe a booster if needed or to experiment with after a good run.You must add the silica first and allow to mix before adding anything else so you only add when changing the system imo.
Keep a spare for something else... the only other thing you may like to add is massive by green plant during flower. Not needed but has natural PGR (plant growth regulator) and some other goodies. But imho keep it simple your first time your going to have issues in your first grow so making it more complex is prob not a good idea. See how veg goes and decide later.
Thank you for the extra input friend! Have you tried anything else previously and had a noticeable difference?Dynagro is hard to beat. Very simple to use.
Imo start to finish with foliage pro. You can mix 50/50 with bloom in flower if you like but I think you will find you definitely don't need to.AH okay, so not going to be needed for the dosing pump. There would be a separate 4 pods for veg and a separate 4 for flower. For the veg ph down, calmag, dynagro foliage pro, then probably thats it and for flower ph down calmag dynagro foliage pro or bloom? and maybe a booster if needed or to experiment with after a good run.
I am leaning toward this reasoning as well. If it provides all bases needed for veg and flower I think its a good base block to build off of and provide whatever specific enhancements are needed on top of it with the extra dosing pump on future grows.Imo start to finish with foliage pro. You can mix 50/50 with bloom in flower if you like but I think you will find you definitely don't need to.
You must add the silica first and allow to mix before adding anything else so you only add when changing the system imo.
Keep a spare for something else... the only other thing you may like to add is massive by green plant during flower. Not needed but has natural PGR (plant growth regulator) and some other goodies. But imho keep it simple your first time your going to have issues in your first grow so making it more complex is prob not a good idea. See how veg goes and decide later.
Yup that's the stuff... can also be applied foliar if need between res changes... bit I doubt you will need to.This silicon acceptable? I would imagine after a flush I would fill with RO, then mix silicon in and turn on the system to let it mix through, then turn on the bluelab controller to start the actual schedule again yes?
With this kind of rough guide for just the 8 weeks of veg in the veg tent in mind of when silica and hydroguard would both be added. Should hydroguard be added weekly with the nute feeding?No worries so in hydro it doesn't work that way.
keep in mind this is a rough guide and it will depend on the plants and growth rates. I also suggest you pick between sterile or live additives to prevent root rot which will almost certainly be an issue without either of those.
Week 1 maybe 100ppm cal mag if needed and 150-200ppm of nutrients.
Week 2 again maybe 100ppm cal mag if needed and 200-300ppm
Week 3 same cal mag 300-400ppm
Week 4- week 7 same cal mage 400-600ppm
And adjusting ratios if you are inclined to. Personally I don't change my ratios much.
Week 8 no cal mag and 300ppm
Thank you for the extra input friend! Have you tried anything else previously and had a noticeable difference?
Good place to start if growth is very fast you may need to up those numbers but go by the plants numbers are only ever a guide and that goes for everything.With this kind of rough guide for just the 8 weeks of veg in the veg tent in mind of when silica and hydroguard would both be added. Should hydroguard be added weekly with the nute feeding?
Week 1 system is set up, silica, let mix then hydroguard(by hand always) calmag 50-100ppm and 150-200ppm dynagro
week 2 maybe 100ppm calmag and 200-300 ppm dynagro
week 3 100ppm calmag 300-400ppm dynagro
week 4-7 Possible flush and add silica again, hydroguard, 100ppm calmag 400-600ppm dynagro
week 8 no cal mag, silica, and 300ppm dynagro
Just getting together a very rough idea of how the scheduling would be properly set up with the vegging tent with bluelab, the actual ppm i know is not spot on, or maybe a good place to start at?
Nice!! The more I hear about dynagro the more I am excited to try it!Yes, I was getting part A & B dry nutrients from American Hydroponic. Dynagro hands down for ease of use. Good stuff. Had plants outgrow their pots in my ebb & flow more than once using dynagro. Pain in the ass when that happens in a hydro.
Right! There was another guide on here I think that was how to determine your plants preferred nutrient strength, I will also follow as well to slowly see how the plants like the nutes.Good place to start if growth is very fast you may need to up those numbers but go by the plants numbers are only ever a guide and that goes for everything.
Hydrogaurd and silica only on res change unless you run into a root problem then follow this.
Aqua Mans method to cure root rot (live systems only)
So figured its about time to make a thread i can reference for those seeking a solution to root rot. First let's go over some facts. Root rot is not temperature dependent there are many different types pythium that survive and thrive at various temps. Second it is not caused by anaerobic...www.thcfarmer.com
This is the exact model https://bluelab.com/new_zealand/bluelab-peripod-m4 Im not entirely sure if it is what you meanOne other recommendation for an automatic dosing system. I’m not familiar with the blulab auto dosers, I have American Hydroponic system. But if they offer dosing pumps go for those over gravity fed solenoids. If a gravity fed solenoid sticks open (happened to me more than once) you can kiss the grow goodbye unless you are on top of your game and catch it when it happens. Good luck with your system no matter which you get, solenoid or dosing pumps.
This is the exact model https://bluelab.com/new_zealand/bluelab-peripod-m4 Im not entirely sure if it is what you mean
perfect:) For example what would be a system that you are referring to that can have that issue? Just would love to see one to learnYes, it has the pumps. That’s what you want.
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