The pictures are in order like you are walking in the room then walking down to the far end and walking back to the door. I also did the best I can with the drawing lol

Love the lights! Timbers are the best ( funny looking at your pictures we run Similar brands )

The duct holes you are referring to are the exhaust , not intake ( that’s where the filter is) if you are led’s And benefit of having warm air in the night cycle is, heaters are expensive as fuck. Like my heater is 5000w ( so why waste my quest heat and blow it out?) quest/dehumidifiers run the most at night ( exp since the a/c wouldn’t be running the n and wouldn’t be dehumidifying and helping you low the %)


Side tip for led guy
Keep your temps 80-84f on your canopy , co2 900-1500 ppm + 25% more nutes/micro than if you would hps user
A lot of new led’s Guys use the hps temps and get a negative % for nothing ( meaning cool the room to 75f-78f and try to dehumidify) follow vpd based on temps and they will love you! Proper airflow and your won’t have issues


What I would do maybe is make a small “ lung room” and have your a/c exhaust, and have it’s intake ethier ethier from somewhere else that’s cold or use ducting to make it work or in the lung room have a in-line fan bring in cool air if it gets to a certain temp, have it turn on (those temp controllers are cheap and you can make it turn on/off so if it gets to hot make it the proper temps , easy, exp in the winter) it’s intake into there ( then you don’t lose your c02 100%, yes you lose some in your lung room, but not 100% and when I started doing this I will never go back ). Then have the quest in the lung room just ethier mounted on the ceiling or floor and since everything is being pushed into that room besides night cycles


My setup I have a quest 155 in my growroom mounted above than quest 105 in the lung room to keep it perfect (my grow room is 17x 32 9.5 ceiling ) and lung room 15 x32 9 15ft ceiling . If I only ran 1 , i would of never won ( even thou I love quest and if if one died it will save me also as a prevent )

Error on lung room spec* 10x32ft 15ft ceiling

Question : why are your spydrx so raised? The maker of spydrx says 6-8 inches no matter what dim % ( just a suggestion and a question if you got something positive from doing that )

Burned Haze said:

Love the lights! Timbers are the best ( funny looking at your pictures we run Similar brands )

The duct holes you are referring to are the exhaust , not intake ( that’s where the filter is) if you are led’s And benefit of having warm air in the night cycle is, heaters are expensive as fuck. Like my heater is 5000w ( so why waste my quest heat and blow it out?) quest/dehumidifiers run the most at night ( exp since the a/c wouldn’t be running the n and wouldn’t be dehumidifying and helping you low the %)


Side tip for led guy
Keep your temps 80-84f on your canopy , co2 900-1500 ppm + 25% more nutes/micro than if you would hps user
A lot of new led’s Guys use the hps temps and get a negative % for nothing ( meaning cool the room to 75f-78f and try to dehumidify) follow vpd based on temps and they will love you! Proper airflow and your won’t have issues


What I would do maybe is make a small “ lung room” and have your a/c exhaust, and have it’s intake ethier ethier from somewhere else that’s cold or use ducting to make it work or in the lung room have a in-line fan bring in cool air if it gets to a certain temp, have it turn on (those temp controllers are cheap and you can make it turn on/off so if it gets to hot make it the proper temps , easy, exp in the winter) it’s intake into there ( then you don’t lose your c02 100%, yes you lose some in your lung room, but not 100% and when I started doing this I will never go back ). Then have the quest in the lung room just ethier mounted on the ceiling or floor and since everything is being pushed into that room besides night cycles


My setup I have a quest 155 in my growroom mounted above than quest 105 in the lung room to keep it perfect (my grow room is 17x 32 9.5 ceiling ) and lung room 15 x32 9 15ft ceiling . If I only ran 1 , i would of never won ( even thou I love quest and if if one died it will save me also as a prevent )

Click to expand...

Burned Haze said:

Love the lights! Timbers are the best ( funny looking at your pictures we run Similar brands )

The duct holes you are referring to are the exhaust , not intake ( that’s where the filter is) if you are led’s And benefit of having warm air in the night cycle is, heaters are expensive as fuck. Like my heater is 5000w ( so why waste my quest heat and blow it out?) quest/dehumidifiers run the most at night ( exp since the a/c wouldn’t be running the n and wouldn’t be dehumidifying and helping you low the %)


Side tip for led guy
Keep your temps 80-84f on your canopy , co2 900-1500 ppm + 25% more nutes/micro than if you would hps user
A lot of new led’s Guys use the hps temps and get a negative % for nothing ( meaning cool the room to 75f-78f and try to dehumidify) follow vpd based on temps and they will love you! Proper airflow and your won’t have issues


What I would do maybe is make a small “ lung room” and have your a/c exhaust, and have it’s intake ethier ethier from somewhere else that’s cold or use ducting to make it work or in the lung room have a in-line fan bring in cool air if it gets to a certain temp, have it turn on (those temp controllers are cheap and you can make it turn on/off so if it gets to hot make it the proper temps , easy, exp in the winter) it’s intake into there ( then you don’t lose your c02 100%, yes you lose some in your lung room, but not 100% and when I started doing this I will never go back ). Then have the quest in the lung room just ethier mounted on the ceiling or floor and since everything is being pushed into that room besides night cycles


My setup I have a quest 155 in my growroom mounted above than quest 105 in the lung room to keep it perfect (my grow room is 17x 32 9.5 ceiling ) and lung room 15 x32 9 15ft ceiling . If I only ran 1 , i would of never won ( even thou I love quest and if if one died it will save me also as a prevent )

Click to expand...

Per Quest you can Duct the supply and return up to 25’ I do not need a heater and already run in the 80’s with my temp. My only issue is the humidity during mid to late flower and at night. I am looking for info from anyone that has used these units ducted with no additional inline fans

thank you

Ducting

I was giving you points + tips to help you on your build ( guess you only want that question lol ) , like 240v heaters for winters are very non efficient ( most are 3000w-5000w), why remove the heat in the winter when it’s even Dehumidified heat



If you have questions? Why not call quest lol ( they are easy to call and talk to) I just know when I put my hands on the holes, it def blows heat ( I can def check tonight both sides to double check for ya)

I spent my time trying to help you out and even pointed a great way to save you c02, reduce your a/c and the proper temps and c02 levels of led’s . And you still never answered my question on why your spydrx are 2-3x the height of what they are suppose to be ( they are suppose to be 6-8 inches no matter what dimmed, trust me I got 4 of em and I use a measuring stick to make sure cause I have to lift them up and down for my IPM every 3 days lol )

Burned Haze said:

I was giving you points + tips to help you on your build ( guess you only want that question lol ) , like 240v heaters for winters are very non efficient ( most are 3000w-5000w), why remove the heat in the winter when it’s even Dehumidified heat



If you have questions? Why not call quest lol ( they are easy to call and talk to) I just know when I put my hands on the holes, it def blows heat ( I can def check tonight both sides to double check for ya)

I spent my time trying to help you out and even pointed a great way to save you c02, reduce your a/c and the proper temps and c02 levels of led’s . And you still never answered my question on why your spydrx are 2-3x the height of what they are suppose to be ( they are suppose to be 6-8 inches no matter what dimmed, trust me I got 4 of em and I use a measuring stick to make sure cause I have to lift them up and down for my IPM every 3 days lol )

Click to expand...

I appreciate your advice and was with the kids so if I came off like a dick I am sorry.

Regarding the height of my lights

I have 1 tray that has 1 Spydrx plus and 1 2P that is 2-6” above the canopy with my tales plants. I can only raise the lights another 2-3 inches and will do that later as they are doing fine

I have 1 Timber Fatty VS that is about 16-18” above my most even canopy tray that’s about 4x5’ in size with my shortes plants.

the longest tray I have is almost 16’ and has 3 Spydrx Plus’s and one Timber Model 4V that I should replace with my Redwood VS but kinda hard to get it up at this point lol. That tray has a very uneven canopy and ranges in distance from 6-18” in distance.
I ran the same setup last run and yielded a little more than 16 1/2 with similar distance from the lights. This run so far is looking better at the same point. I strip off all the leaves every two weeks so light penetration isn’t really a big concern.

My room is sealed and I have never ever had to use a heater of any kind in my room. I do not vent any air out or bring any fresh air in as I run CO2. I have a charcoal filter scrubbing the air in the room and that also helps with airflow.

I run my temps in the 81-82 + in flower and when my light turn off the temp only drops to 76-77 but my humidity goes way up and my 70pint Dehumidifier can’t get it below 68% plus in mid to late flower it cannot get the humidity low enough for my likings.

that is why I got the Quest 155 and hopefully it will do the trick. Now I can if I absolutely have to hang it in the room but space is very very tight lol.

I called Quest a couple times and asked some questions but the people I spoke with didn’t really seem to knowledgeable and kinda irritated . It’s kinda hard for them to give me a design without all the info and seeing the space.

Thank you again for the advice and I should have taken the time to get my canopy more level and even.

I also have been battling fungus gnats this round and started with beneficial nematodes and the first round knocked them down a bit plus I got some predator mites and beetles not to mention tons of yellow sticky sensor cards but with higher humidity and warmer temps it’s a perfect breeding ground. Don’t really want to use anything too toxic on them but if I can’t get them down I might not have a choice.

Thing is you want higher humidity vs a traditional hps if your going higher temps (80f+) key is proper airflow and deleafing vs following so many people thinking “ you gotta have a dry climate to keep your mold/pm “ keeping a lower humidity just cost ya cash and hurt your terps . That has been lab proven and it’s not me saying those claims , look at a vpd chart based on your temps . One of the biggest upgrade I got was a pulse environment controller , if you want to call it that “ controller” ( shows current and previous vpd, humidity , temps, light % ,pressure , dew point and logs it 24/7 and you make your “lows and highs of everything’s so it can alert you by email ( if you want ) and if you leave their live browser app , it will update every like every 30 seconds lol

I hated worrying about my rooms issues and if it was okay ( when I wasn’t in it) and sometimes my a/c would fuck up or anything would get out of whack . Those things = majors differences even if it’s a few hours you don’t noitice it in stress . So having something that alerts you and logs everything in a environment (it’s less than 200 bucks )

god things like this before we’re 1000’s of dollars and we’re hard to wire, and never worked this good, this product is easy peezy and you can be anywhere in the world and know your grow from the second it was turned on ( plus it has batteries for if the power go out )

makes me sound like a rep/ affiliated ( no.. just love it lol )

Burned Haze said:

Thing is you want higher humidity vs a traditional hps if your going higher temps (80f+) key is proper airflow and deleafing vs following so many people thinking “ you gotta have a dry climate to keep your mold/pm “ keeping a lower humidity just cost ya cash and hurt your terps . That has been lab proven and it’s not me saying those claims , look at a vpd chart based on your temps . One of the biggest upgrade I got was a pulse environment controller , if you want to call it that “ controller” ( shows current and previous vpd, humidity , temps, light % ,pressure , dew point and logs it 24/7 and you make your “lows and highs of everything’s so it can alert you by email ( if you want ) and if you leave their live browser app , it will update every like every 30 seconds lol

I hated worrying about my rooms issues and if it was okay ( when I wasn’t in it) and sometimes my a/c would fuck up or anything would get out of whack . Those things = majors differences even if it’s a few hours you don’t noitice it in stress . So having something that alerts you and logs everything in a environment (it’s less than 200 bucks )

god things like this before we’re 1000’s of dollars and we’re hard to wire, and never worked this good, this product is easy peezy and you can be anywhere in the world and know your grow from the second it was turned on ( plus it has batteries for if the power go out )

makes me sound like a rep/ affiliated ( no.. just love it lol )

Pulse Grow - Pulse One Grow Room Monitor - Track VPD, Temperature, Rh

Pulse Labs provides smart and easy grow room monitoring solutions.

getpulse.co

Click to expand...

I am following VPD but still cannot get it low enough with my HD dehumidifier and at night it’s high AF last night was almost 80% humidity. I am not worried about PM with this cut as I have ran it several times with this same issue. I am just trying to get better quality from it and lower humidity will help especially later in flower. These things are stacking nicely

this is also my first run with HGV nutrients and the plants are loving it!!!! So easy to use as you stay at 3.EC from start to finish with ZERO boosters or additives, now I sound like a rep lol.
I strip all leaves every 2 weeks and that helps with the humidity but they grow back so fast lol. My yield is really good for me with this setup and strain but again I am trying to improve quality

I use the Sensor Push to monitor my room and like you said that gives you piece of mind

Bubba kush said:

I am following VPD but still cannot get it low enough with my HD dehumidifier and at night it’s high AF last night was almost 80% humidity. I am not worried about PM with this cut as I have ran it several times with this same issue. I am just trying to get better quality from it and lower humidity will help especially later in flower. These things are stacking nicely

this is also my first run with HGV nutrients and the plants are loving it!!!! So easy to use as you stay at 3.EC from start to finish with ZERO boosters or additives, now I sound like a rep lol.
I strip all leaves every 2 weeks and that helps with the humidity but they grow back so fast lol. My yield is really good for me with this setup and strain but again I am trying to improve quality

I use the Sensor Push to monitor my room and like you said that gives you piece of mind

Click to expand...

Yeah I got my yields to my liking , all I care about is quality ( too many dudes want leaf and crap commercial grade and think they are doing something, whoopty doo )


Keep it up brotha , you sound like you got the mind in the game !

Burned Haze said:

Yeah I got my yields to my liking , all I care about is quality ( too many dudes want leaf and crap commercial grade and think they are doing something, whoopty doo )


Keep it up brotha , you sound like you got the mind in the game !

Click to expand...

how long to you take your Wedding Cake strains

I always let 30-50% cloudy on trich, I got myself a nice 1000x usb microscope and what I do is when I think by color of plant and by ending weeks I cut off a few tops and then I check the % of trich. You get it!

try 9-10 weekish but always check trich and don’t let “ must be cut on a date” cause what if certain things of if your environment set you back a day or two. Stress is like that. I find that even when I have the same clone it can take longer or less time (1-2 weeks ish) people just get greedy and no wonder there is so many commercial crap

Burned Haze said:

I always let 30-50% cloudy on trich, I got myself a nice 1000x usb microscope and what I do is when I think by color of plant and by ending weeks I cut off a few tops and then I check the % of trich. You get it!

try 9-10 weekish but always check trich and don’t let “ must be cut on a date” cause what if certain things of if your environment set you back a day or two. Stress is like that. I find that even when I have the same clone it can take longer or less time (1-2 weeks ish) people just get greedy and no wonder there is so many commercial crap

Click to expand...

My last run finished around 9 weeks weeks with the heads where I like them. It will be nice to see the difference when I have more control over the humidity