canadaseed
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That doesn't quite look to be mold to me. I'd whack it back HARD, get rid of all the dying growth and then give it heat and food.
What Seamaiden said. Cut off all the old/dying growth and pull the fruit off as well. Keep it somewhat protected(no direct sunlight if it's above 75 degrees). Make sure the soil is good and then start feeding and watering normally. Tomatoes are heavy feeders so keep that in mind. If it's going to live, you should see new growth appearing in 5-10 days. Once it starts growing again move it back to full sun.
Okay thanks sea, quarter dose it is and i'll see what happens after a few days. "don't ask how i know" lollll. I was somewhat concerned about a pathogen traveling within the branch and leaf systems... possibly reaching the fruit. Cause the plant was covered in some blue sorta dust or mildew. But I've eaten a few now, all is goof and they taste nice.I would go with a quarter or eighth dose until I see it's growing well. You don't want to get the soil loaded up with fertilizer just yet.
Don't be afraid to eat the fruits. Even if they're moldy, they'll just taste yucky, won't get you sick. (Don't ask how I know!)
It's true! No known pathogens can survive in a raw tomato so no matter how fuzzy or nasty they get, you can safely eat them although I have no idea why you would want to at that point! Cooked tomatoes are a different thing though and you definitely don't want to eat them if they are spoiled!
Someone gave me a really old recipe for ketchup once and it involved placing a bushel of over ripe tomatoes into a ceramic crock and "leaving them out on the porch" for several weeks then "scraping off the blue mold" then repeat until it condensed down. Needless to say, I have not tried it!
In theory, indeterminates would keep producing forever. The problem you run into is when they get so far from the root system to the top of the plant. My Sungolds are close to 40' long right now. When the weather turns bad here in late October, the plants can't support fruit and disease starts to set in on the long, empty stems. If you are just gardening for home use, you can always prune them back and let a new sucker grow out and keep them under a light all Winter. I used to have all the greenhouses filled with 1000W HPS/MH and we produced all year long but electricity was only .9 cents a KW back then. It's up to 9 cents now and I can't justify running the lights through the Winter anymore.
As far as tapping the stems goes, you need to do that when the flowers are actually open. An electric toothbrush works great to shake the pollen loose if you don't have many bees around to do it for you. I use bumblebees in the greenhouse and before I place them in for the first time in Spring, I use an electric pollinator on the open flowers every other day. Before we could get the bees, we used to do all the greenhouses by hand with the electric pollinators. It took a lot of hours every week and does not do as good of a job as the bees do.
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