Picture worth 1000 words; feel free to ask any questions.
24 volt; 1400 ma per unit; or about 150 watts total output. Easily handle 200>250 watts but runs most efficient at around 150 watt.
Upgraded the single strip for the 3 of them and the addition of another cookie sheet. Spread out the light a bit more. I've got 2 other units like this but sitting next to the spiderfarmerSE3000 sitting in the front tent.
Picture worth 1000 words; feel free to ask any questions.
24 volt; 1400 ma per unit; or about 150 watts total output. Easily handle 200>250 watts but runs most efficient at around 150 watt.
Upgraded the single strip for the 3 of them and the addition of another cookie sheet. Spread out the light a bit more. I've got 2 other units like this but sitting next to the spiderfarmer SE3000 sitting in the front tent.
I love it ! How much did the led bars cost you? I use 48W of t5's for my small seedlings and such but the tubes are like $25 Cdn each for the 24"....I like the simplicity and low voltage...If they are competitive in price, I like the dyi idea of it..
I love it ! How much did the led bars cost you? I use 48W of t5's for my small seedlings and such but the tubes are like $25 Cdn each for the 24"....I like the simplicity and low voltage...If they are competitive in price, I like the dyi idea of it..
Here's the single I use when shooting for lower power. I use this one during the first week or so of sprouting. Just cemented with a few heatsinks. None of the sinks have fallen off yet, so I'm impressed by it's adhesion strength of the heat transfer paste. I've been building electronics for decades; so I've done quite a bit of this sort of thing on computer builds over the years. Never used a transfer paste that "sets"" quite like this one before. My cpu/gpu are actually watercooled with radiator on the machine I'm currently using..
Even that one hanging half off the end is still attached after all this time.
The bars were around $22 a pop I believe; and the 10 amp PS cost me around $70
There's an optimum area to drive diodes; you can run them higher and get more lumens; but it's less efficient watt/per lumen; it degrades the lights faster. Since LEDs are expensive; most manufactures push the diodes; sacrificing efficiency for (price) per diode; and overall cost of the unit per lumen output....
The way I'm running the lights is energy (cost) efficient lumen/per watt of energy burned; plus it's extending the lifespan; and diode efficiency over time....
When you run lights hard; there is a trade-off; not only do they burn out faster; there efficiency degrades faster also... plus the cost to drive them per lumen is more expensive....
Gotta love DIY! I want to build more lights but here’s my 240 watt flower fixture. It’s full spectrum but I feel has a bit more red since I added the deep/far red strips. You want the best strips that have multiple options then check out https://growdaddyleds.com/ and https://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/
Picture worth 1000 words; feel free to ask any questions.
24 volt; 1400 ma per unit; or about 150 watts total output. Easily handle 200>250 watts but runs most efficient at around 150 watt.
Upgraded the single strip for the 3 of them and the addition of another cookie sheet. Spread out the light a bit more. I've got 2 other units like this but sitting next to the spiderfarmer SE3000 sitting in the front tent.
So what was the reasoning behind the power supply you picked? Doesn’t look at all like a typical driver you would use with led. The price seems similar to a driver with a potentiometer.
The bars were around $22 a pop I believe; and the 10 amp PS cost me around $70
There's an optimum area to drive diodes; you can run them higher and get more lumens; but it's less efficient watt/per lumen; it degrades the lights faster. Since LEDs are expensive; most manufactures push the diodes; sacrificing efficiency for (price) per diode; and overall cost of the unit per lumen output....
The way I'm running the lights is energy (cost) efficient lumen/per watt of energy burned; plus it's extending the lifespan; and diode efficiency over time....
When you run lights hard; there is a trade-off; not only do they burn out faster; there efficiency degrades faster also... plus the cost to drive them per lumen is more expensive....
Appreciate the knowledge frankster.
This winter was my 1st indoor grow. I started with a Bestva "1000w" pro & 2 single sansi bulbs (36w & 24w).
They're making it happen but I want to spread out the bars & have a light that is more suited to my environment size.
That really is too bad I supported when I could’ve had a manufacturer on Alibaba.com make what ever diode layout I wanted so atleast we still have access. I watched his build videos and made a hybrid combining some of his design with my own ideas. Growdaddy led has really dope diode combinations to make a perfect custom fixture. Similar to the ones @frankser has but they have reds, blues, UV, in all sorts of diode layouts. I really want to see more ppl build some dope led fixtures. Good job frankster!!!
So what was the reasoning behind the power supply you picked? Doesn’t look at all like a typical driver you would use with led. The price seems similar to a driver with a potentiometer.
The lab power supply was done for versatility reasons. I can disconnect different configurations and use them during certain early growth periods; switching out the lights for the need in question.
I'll admit; it's certainly might not be the most cost efficient solution, but the few dollars extra I've put into them allows me to dial things in precisely. For powering anything beyond 5->6 strips; something more traditional/higher powered is certainly the way to go. Meanwells are IMO; the desired units. But every single one is very application specific; so do your homework. Be sure too look at the constant current specs rating in mA... Not just your output voltage; or total amperage.
I've actually got 2 of them (one for backup; but both are currently being used).
Plus; I can do other electrical applications with this unit. Things like electroplating (gold; silver) Or charge other devices; I can even charge a battery with this thing. Bench power supplies are extremely useful tools in testing circuits, as they allow you to adjust the voltage on the fly. If you have a project that needs a specific voltage or if you haven't quite designed the power section yet, the bench power supply can be a life saver.
Have been curious about using a 12V LED lighting system on my project. For reasons of excessive heat and limited space of the project. Using different combinations of lights on your cookie sheet array for different stages of plant growth is very inspiring to me personally. Wondering if the wavelength and lumens of the LEDs will meet your plants grow requirements.
Will be following your progress looking forward to information on your project. Would like to thank you for taking the time and effort to share this project with us.
Have been curious about using a 12V LED lighting system on my project. For reasons of excessive heat and limited space of the project. Using different combinations of lights on your cookie sheet array for different stages of plant growth is very inspiring to me personally. Wondering if the wavelength and lumens of the LEDs will meet your plants grow requirements.
Will be following your progress looking forward to information on your project. Would like to thank you for taking the time and effort to share this project with us.
Good looking out; I wonder what the thermal conductivity of this is lined up against the paste. I've got it marked and review the information later today.
I was thinking about using a inverted U shaped panel with several rows of lights.
My plan idea is to incorporate light controller/Timer to mimic sun rise, mid day and sun set.
Not sure how beneficial this approach would be but just a idea bouncing around at the moment.
Also considered housing the root ball in a different compartment isolated from the rest of the grow compartment in order to cool the root ball.
I think I can easily do this by using a folding mylar bubble panel. It would also provide under leaf light reflection. I know tomatoes like red filtered mylar reflection in there grow cycle.
Just lofty ideas at the moment. Will keep everyone posted.
Good looking out; I wonder what the thermal conductivity of this is lined up against the paste. I've got it marked and review the information later today.
Yeah with the themal adhesive, the most important aspect is getting a uniform coat on it and it is hard to do with that messy tube stuff where as you don't have to worry about that with the tape. Easy peasy and you just trim it with a razor. I make high powered LEDs that crank heat much more than your samsungs and this tape (although im not sure if it is the exact stuff on amazon but Im sure its close) is still going strong. I think the longevity would depend on your output heat though.
I was thinking about using a inverted U shaped panel with several rows of lights.
My plan idea is to incorporate light controller/Timer to mimic sun rise, mid day and sun set.
Not sure how beneficial this approach would be but just a idea bouncing around at the moment.
Also considered housing the root ball in a different compartment isolated from the rest of the grow compartment in order to cool the root ball.
I think I can easily do this by using a folding mylar bubble panel. It would also provide under leaf light reflection. I know tomatoes like red filtered mylar reflection in there grow cycle.
Just lofty ideas at the moment. Will keep everyone posted.
I think using something like angle aluminum bars might be a way forward. I would consider just using hangers, so you and manage them independently of one another. It' certainly got potential for getting all the way around the lower sides of plants; if that's what you after.
If you've got a ridged space; making it all one piece might make more sense. But having versatility is IMO a good thing, cause you can dial it and make adjustments.