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Quintec Vs. Eagle 20

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Quintec Vs. Eagle 20

Harvy 25 Replies 4,193 Views
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#3
Reading the label they are two entirely different beasts. E20 should *not* be used prophylactically, it's known to cause resistance. This Quintec is quinoline, I need to do more reading, but it *must* be used as a prophylactic and not during active infection/observed obvious fruiting bodies. It's got some strict PHI requirements, as well as worker protection standard requirements and ultimately sounds like fairly toxic stuff.

But the real question is whether or not it's allowed for tobacco production. I don't see tobacco listed, so I'm gonna guess no, it's not, and there's probably a pretty good reason for that.

In my opinion, there are other methods for controlling PM that aren't as difficult to work with. If you're able to buy it without a permit or license, I'm going to further suggest you may be getting an adulterated version.
 
#5
Seamaiden said:
Reading the label they are two entirely different beasts. E20 should *not* be used prophylactically, it's known to cause resistance. This Quintec is quinoline, I need to do more reading, but it *must* be used as a prophylactic and not during active infection/observed obvious fruiting bodies. It's got some strict PHI requirements, as well as worker protection standard requirements and ultimately sounds like fairly toxic stuff.

But the real question is whether or not it's allowed for tobacco production. I don't see tobacco listed, so I'm gonna guess no, it's not, and there's probably a pretty good reason for that.

In my opinion, there are other methods for controlling PM that aren't as difficult to work with. If you're able to buy it without a permit or license, I'm going to further suggest you may be getting an adulterated version.
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Seamaiden said:
Reading the label they are two entirely different beasts. E20 should *not* be used prophylactically, it's known to cause resistance. This Quintec is quinoline, I need to do more reading, but it *must* be used as a prophylactic and not during active infection/observed obvious fruiting bodies. It's got some strict PHI requirements, as well as worker protection standard requirements and ultimately sounds like fairly toxic stuff.

But the real question is whether or not it's allowed for tobacco production. I don't see tobacco listed, so I'm gonna guess no, it's not, and there's probably a pretty good reason for that.

In my opinion, there are other methods for controlling PM that aren't as difficult to work with. If you're able to buy it without a permit or license, I'm going to further suggest you may be getting an adulterated version.
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Interesting, thank you for your thoughts. Will research this further.
 
#7
Harvy said:
What have you read, any better options out there?
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I have used green cure for years without ever having a pm problem. It's cheap and omri certified. I use it as a preventive spray all through veg till week 2 of flower.
 
#8
Can you send anymore info on this product, where to find it and the application?
 
#10
That's greencure's website. I use the powder form at 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of spray. They just came out with a premixed version that I haven't used but typically premixed bottles are more expensive. I usually find the small powder containers for $15 at my local hydro shop. a lot of the greenhouse guys around here use it as well.
 
#11
I typically spray with it every 7-10 days up until flowers are forming
 
#12
Thank you for your reply HydroGuy!
Doing some more research, Procure is in the same class as Eagle 20 which possibly means my trees would have the same resistance to the treatment. Bummer this is why I'm looking for a new product for the final combat prior to flower.
I also have been using SM90 every 7 days for maintenance.
 
#13
And you're welcome. Thank the grape farmers up in Cali for this hot tip. But a warning if you use stuff like this. There is a 2 week window from spraying anything oil based and then sulfur and vice versa. It will burn the shit out of your crop if you don't heed to this. Also it will cause problems if you get above 90 degrees. I wouldnt spray it after week 7. Good for about 7-14 days of protection.
 

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#14
If you want to go the chem warfare route there is also Luna

Greencure always seemed to brown the pistils out some. Potassium Bicarbonate can fuck the leaves up if you arent careful. You would be better off just buying Potassium Bicarbonate. Prob a lot cheaper. Then there is stuff like Zerotol if you want to go the peroxide route. But that's really only a contact killer.
 
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#16
Also the whole reason E20 is banned in CO is there are no studies on it not negative ones like you would be led to believe. The hydrogen cyanide concern might have some merit concerning extracts as it would concentrate the remaining hydrogen cyanide. Also you have to understand out of 99 responsible users of E20 there will always be that one person who is spraying it 10 days before chop. Can't blame CO for those asshats and wanting to ban it. They test parts per billion now for it and because of that most people who have their plants pulled just sue them for cross contamination and get their stuff back usually. Kind of a joke. Most the time CO bans on pesticides has no rhyme or reason and most is do to very specific labeling on the bottle AKA if it doesnt list tobacco then you prob cant use it (which is funny cause you cant use the fungicides for tobacco either Logic?). They aren't doing their own tests and basing bans on said results. For example JMS can only be used in a greenhouse cause the label only mentions greenhouses.

With that being said back in the day treebark sprayed some clones with e20, floramite, avid, forbid. Flowered out the plants and then got it tested. I think avid and floramite where the only things that still popped up in the flowers above the acceptable threshold. He never posted a pic of the results so take it for what it is.
 
#17
cemchris said:
And you're welcome. Thank the grape farmers up in Cali for this hot tip. But a warning if you use stuff like this. There is a 2 week window from spraying anything oil based and then sulfur and vice versa. It will burn the shit out of your crop if you don't heed to this. Also it will cause problems if you get above 90 degrees. I wouldnt spray it after week 7. Good for about 7-14 days of protection.
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Yes, I do a Sulfur burn after each run once the room is turnaround just as a preventive measure now that I have this pain in the arss PM. The issue I have now is finding the safest product that isn't in the same class as Eagle 20. My trees have built up the resistance!
 
#18
cemchris said:
Also the whole reason E20 is banned in CO is there are no studies on it not negative ones like you would be led to believe. The hydrogen cyanide concern might have some merit concerning extracts as it would concentrate the remaining hydrogen cyanide. Also you have to understand out of 99 responsible users of E20 there will always be that one person who is spraying it 10 days before chop. Can't blame CO for those asshats and wanting to ban it. They test parts per billion now for it and because of that most people who have their plants pulled just sue them for cross contamination and get their stuff back usually. Kind of a joke. Most the time CO bans on pesticides has no rhyme or reason and most is do to very specific labeling on the bottle AKA if it doesnt list tobacco then you prob cant use it (which is funny cause you cant use the fungicides for tobacco either Logic?). They aren't doing their own tests and basing bans on said results. For example JMS can only be used in a greenhouse cause the label only mentions greenhouses.

With that being said back in the day treebark sprayed some clones with e20, floramite, avid, forbid. Flowered out the plants and then got it tested. I think avid and floramite where the only things that still popped up in the flowers above the acceptable threshold. He never posted a pic of the results so take it for what it is.
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Thank you for the info! I believe E20 is the best option, but again last run I sprayed and got PM anyway!
 
#19
Try the Microsulf. It will completely git rid of it and wont fuck your flowers up like burning sulfur in flower will. It's cheap and OMRI listed. Shit works like you wouldn't believe.

Luna is in a different class then E20 if i remember right just get your wallet out for that one.
 
#20
I would try making the leaf uninhabitable to PM by using alkaline adjust water with a PH above 8.0 as a foliar (PM needs an acidic enviroment). I believe this is mostly how Greencure works as it is mostly sodium bicarbonate.
HEPA filter would help. Does anyone make a UV-C light for the air intake? This would kill spores as well.
 
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