mancorn said:

Same here. N & K are the only nutrients I need and P is about 3x over optimum. Phosphorus really binds with other elements in soil, iron and aluminum at a lower pH, and calcium at higher pH. So real common to have an absolute shit ton of P and why it’s super important to make sure your pH is 6-7 to make sure the P remains accessible. But in soil it’s almost impossible to make a pH change with irrigation and why you need to adjust your soil pH in the off season.

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I’m beginning to think that the ratios really don’t matter! As long as it’s pretty well cooked the plant will find what it needs and take it! Especially if you’re in a little bit larger pot! It’s hard to adjust one without affecting two others! Lol! Fuck it! Bottom line is they’re growing! And healthy so far! The ratios in the wild must vary quite a bit from place to place!So why shouldn’t they in the pot?

Oldchucky said:

But the pH is spot on at about 6.8!

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This demonstrates the importance of pH being within a specific range. I was/am sure my nutrient levels are okay, but there were what looked like nutrient-related problems, nevertheless. Without changing the nutrients, those problems went away when I fixed the pH problem. Because this thread is about reusing soil and pH, my main point was that pH can drift with reuse of the soil. Anyway, after about 2 dozen browser tabs of reading, I know a lot more about pH in organic soil now than I did a few weeks ago. I suppose the conclusion is that what looks like a nutrient problem could be a pH problem, and it's difficult to know which. That said, I didn't have a pH meter when I began. I do now.