GreySeer
- 14
- 3
Its expired. Aug 4, 2018 it was made. Aug 4 2020 expired
Its not a zink deficiencySo looking at the pics, looks like you had zinc deficiency, but that is actually phosphoric toxicity, and that was start of problems. Do not use ph down and use my other advice, then post pics tonight
Do you have airstones in them?ah hell :D I assumed from reading that copy/paste that was the born on date.... Rereading that, it is what it says. Are you sure?
I'll have a bottle of Great White to try out on Friday, I'll have to make sure that's not expired as well...
EDIT: Now the water level is a little more than an inch below the netpot, for a while I was having struggles with getting the roots into the water and had the level closer to .5" I'm certain this was at least part of the problem.
So looking at the pics, looks like you had zinc deficiency, but that is actually phosphoric toxicity, and that was start of problems. Do not use ph down and use my other advice, then post pics tonight
After I mix a batch of nutrients with my tap water the PH is always around 6.8 - 7.5 not the ideal range at all for hydro. I've never read this advice anywhere else in my research... So I have to admit, I'm a little skeptical.
Are you proposing NOT adjusting the PH and just letting it ride, or should I look into some other method to bring the PH down between 5.5 - 6.5ph?
When I make a batch of water:
When I check PH mid week and find it's risen above 6.2:
- I leave out the water for 24 hours in a 5g jug
- I add the HydroGuard 2ml/gal and wait 30-45 min
- I add the trio in equal amounts, flora micro first, half the seedling dose on the rdwc feeding schedule (1.25ml/gal iirc)
- I add CaliMagic 1.25ml/gal
- Shake Bottle and try not to throw out my back in the process
- add PH down in .25ml increments and shaking to dial the PH down to 5.5
I have been having problems with the PH rising so I have had to adjust the PH midweek more than once. I hear this brown slime stuff tends to cause PH to rise, I wonder if there's some credence to what you're saying. I was chasing the PH dragon and using too much PH down when it was really Algae in my res spiking the PH.
- I pull 2 gal out of the res into a bucket
- use PH down to bring it's PH down to a little below the desired level
- Pump it back into the res and check res PH after 30 min
I know for a while there I had at best 1-2 strands in the water and PH was rising every day and PPM was staying still. I suspected it was me top watering trying to get the roots down to the waterline and washing dust off the hydroton and causing the PH to spike but maybe it was algae all along.
Do you have airstones in them?
Your water level was and is fine.
Alkalinity
Marijuana pH Levels for Growing Weed: A Basic Explanation
OK I'm going to do my best to explain PH since its something that is for the most part greatly misunderstood and can be confusing to new growers and even experienced growers alike. This will explain why we need both ppm and PH meters to give us informed information about PH This will be a...www.thcfarmer.com
Ph up (potassium bicarbonate) or IMO the best would be potassium silicate.Quality post. Thanks for linking that. I'm still reading through the rest of the comments in the thread but your post was top notch.
So my water comes out of the tap at around 40ppm and looking at my town water report:
4.5 ppm of chlorine
0.05 ppm copper
2 ppb of lead
Then there's something about total organic carbon ratio being 1.1
I don't see info about the other 35ppm on the site as it seems the water report is focused on contaminants and disinfectants. Nothing related to buffers added. Any idea where I'd find that info or search terms to look for? You think it's safe-ish to assume 50-75% of that 35ppm is calcium carbonate?
I am now curious about adding alkalinity to my water as a buffer. One of my most time consuming tasks thus far has been adjusting PH so if adding 50-60 ppm of an alkaline to my water will stabilize my PH over the week between water changes so I can set it to 5.5 on Friday and dump and refill at 6.5 the following Friday... well lets just say I would be very happy.
I'll do some more research on my own but if you have another link explaining what to buy and how to apply it I'd appreciate it.
All bacteria create a smell not just bad. The slime is a mass of bacteria and the reason it smells is the dead decaying bacteria as normal life cycles occur.I would drop all but just your base nutrients for about 10 days....ph if needed to 6.0 and don't adjust for 10 days unless it goes above 6.6 or below 5.2
Best way to eliminate problems is to start at the base and work your way up. Don't add Hydro guard or anything but the base nutrients for about 7 to 10 days, then add Hydro guard.
Ppm set to 300-350
Ph up (potassium bicarbonate) or IMO the best would be potassium silicate.
At 40 ppm there is no doubt you dont have enough alkalinity and thats why the ph is swinging so much.
You will need more acid to bring the ph down but it will be much more stable.
And honestly forget that nonsense about p tox from ph down... its absolutely absurd
All bacteria create a smell not just bad. The slime is a mass of bacteria and the reason it smells is the dead decaying bacteria as normal life cycles occur.
Have to disagree here about doing nothing but base nutes. How does that get rid of a bacterial root infection? I would agree if it were a nutrient issue but it's a pathogen... kinda like saying use only base nutes to get rid of powdery mildew.
I linked a cure to root rot. I know a few ppl still around who have used it and beat it.
The key is to get the slime off the roots causing a little damage as possible. Rinsing daily and dosing something with bacillus amyloliquefaciens. I have seen some try doing the same with h202 but the success rate goes from almost 100% to maybe 50% but that's based on only my observations.
In a pinch you can us baking soda in the meantime but don't reccomended it long term as there are much better options. 1 would start at about 1/2tsp per 5 gal ow water. Better to start to low. Then add nutrients and ph down to 5.5. Then check ph in an hr or 2 and adjust if needed. Check the ph drift over 24 hrs. 0.2 increase is a good place to be.Yeah I think so too.
The volume of work out there as far as guides seems to suggest ph up/down is safe to use in the amounts I'm using it.
I'm measuring how much I use with small dispensing syringes and only using JUST enough to get it to the right PH. I'm talking like ~1ml in the whole 5 gallon batch and I'm tweaking it .25ml at a time trying to get it right on the money.
I have some PH Up on hand already, I'll look around for potassium silicate as well, I've wanted to add some silica to the mix anyway.
Would you add the PH Up to the water before mixing nutrients in, get the water ppm up to ~75 by adding PH up and then add nutrients and additives and PH down to get it back to 5.5? I'm assuming for the buffer I should ignore the PH while adding it and focus on the PPM, then work to drop the PH once the nutrients have been added.
It's odd but I'd read in a couple places you should never use PH up/down at the same time.
Looking back to see where I read that I see articles talking about not mixing the concentrates together (duh) and then people going on to say any combination of the two in the res are death for your plants. Finally someone came along and pointed out what you did above, that many fertilizers include both the chemicals in PH up and PH down intended to be used together and they work well and do not kill plants...
I kinda suspected buffers we involved in PH somehow when I was trying to PH some water to soak media in. It's SOOO easy to overshoot your intended PH when there's no nutrients in the water. By the same token I could run a gallon of plain tap water down to 4ph and then add it to a higher PPM nutrient solution and the PH of the nutrients barely flinches! However if I PH a gallon of nutrients at 200ppm and add it to a bucket of similar ppm nutrients it will predictably drop the PH
Anyway I really appreciate you taking the time to teach me a few things here. I'm planning to try out adding a buffer to my next refill + great white. Do a serious cleaning of my res and all tools again, run new air hoses and use the new pump and air stones.
Dont even wastenyour money to keep it lit on the ph up and down.....
If you want to raise ph use somthing like armor si, and ot will also help protect against pathogens as well..
If you want to lower, use humid or folic acidninstead.....
This way, you are giving your plants nutrients needed as well ass controlling phcant believe no one else does this..
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?