thanks!!

i was wondering if my nutes were too high. looks like the new roots are being burned now that I look. just hard to tell what was rotting and what was burning. Oh, that sounds horrible!! rotting and burning!!! changing and cleaning today and going to run 1ml/gal of h2o2 with aquashield at about 350 ppm. was thinking of running physan fungicide for a day or so then dropping again and doing h2o2 and aquashield but I will see what i can do. can you run physan with h2o2 and aquashield? I def know I need bigger ro holding tanks for a 12 place, 200 gallons doesn't cut the mustard in trying times like these. Quitting the dutchmaster. thinking the zone was bad and that is how this happened. we have a chiller and zone so something is a miss. sunlight supply rep and DM rep said no on the h2o2 but I seriously disagree. never had this prob running h2o2.

thanks for the quick response---now back to my draining and cleaning!! Oh JOY!!!

I have been using h202 at 3ml a gallon, and dont see any difference, were you running you bleach solution with the plants in the system?

i was running pythoff and zone in my system but just drained it and cleaned it and now I am going to run h2o2 and aquashield. i cleaned the whole thing without plants in it with 6% bleach at 10ml/gal. we shall see where I am at in the morning. funny thing is, I have a homemade dwc with tomatoes and strawberries as a demo in my store with h202 and aquashield and cns17 grow and it is rocking out! i had dm a&b, .27, and zone in the uc and it was floundering. have a chiller on the uc and no chiller on the homemade, go figure.

I think this is my problem, my res temps are holding at 72 now that it's cooling down again, but when i flash up the other 600's I think the temps will go back up, so chiller is in my near future as well.

H2o2 will just kill the Bacillius in the Aquashield.

growmamamt said:

i was running pythoff and zone in my system but just drained it and cleaned it and now I am going to run h2o2 and aquashield. i cleaned the whole thing without plants in it with 6% bleach at 10ml/gal. we shall see where I am at in the morning. funny thing is, I have a homemade dwc with tomatoes and strawberries as a demo in my store with h202 and aquashield and cns17 grow and it is rocking out! i had dm a&b, .27, and zone in the uc and it was floundering. have a chiller on the uc and no chiller on the homemade, go figure.

Click to expand...

Drop the nute strength in the UC to half what you're running in the DWC. Given the lower nute usage efficiency of stagnent DWC you'll likely end up overdosing the plants in the UC if you run them relative to each other.

Remember, when you have nute strength too high in water culture you retard water uptake, which limits every metabolic function within the plant. Though the DWC and the UC have a common thread, the perpetual motion of the water in the UC nessecitates it be run at much lower strengths...might seem hard to believe but it has proven to be the case.

GAHHH!!! why me? having such a hard time figuring what works with zone or h202. are zone and h202 compatible or is it one or the other?

H202 and bleach create an ammonia byproduct. Do not mix them.

Try sterilizing your water before you introduce it into your system with the H2o2 let it sit for a day to let the h2o2 to become just o2 than you can use the Zone in your system. Also I have a buddy in SoCal running a NFT system no chiller and was having root rot issues and found a product called Regen a root and he now swears by it. I just introduced into my UC yesterday and it can be used with chloramines ( Zone) or h2o2

just to clarify....

My rot started in wk2 bloom and has been going on for about 2 weeks. What should I do about my bloom schedule? i had dime size flowers and now they are about quarter size and ridiculously small but not dying and at least smokeable. should i stay low and grow roots and for how long? can I just chill and grow roots for a few weeks and then finish them and add time to my bloom schedule or will that mess things up? I do not have any clones ready for 3 weeks or so and at this point this crop is just an experiment. Basically just wondering how rot effects the bloom schedule. Do I stick to 8-10 weeks no matter what or can I add weeks for time spent dealing with rot and spend time re-growing some roots?

Thanks much! Your input has been soooo helpful!

Cheers!

H202 and Pythoff cancel each other out I read several places, DS mentioned not mixing chlorine (chlormaine) and h202, I just want to make sure that you knew pythoff was chloramine. I did mix the 2 together before I knew any better, it didn't seem to make my problems any worse.

How much pyhtoff are you putting in per gallon? When I followed the dosing intructions I didn't see any result from it at all. Flairform makes a test kit to make sure the concentrations are high enough to kill. I got the kit and the recommended dosing amount was to low, I also realized that around 50% of it dissipated out of the system in 12 hrs, 100% in 24 hrs. So basically within 4-6 hrs you would be below the "kill" level. I would recommend the test kit to get it just right but if you want to follow my advice start by dosing 1 ml per gallon and then .5 ml per gallon every 12 hrs until the problem goes away and you see nice new roots. I've used much more than that per gallon, that's a conservative amount. Kinda gets expensive, I bought the gallon sized to save money. If you get the pyhtoff levels high enough and maintain them it will take care of your problem.

BTW I use zone at 2 ml per gallon with every water change, I'm sure they are compatible. I use a uv sterlizer for my ro machine and add a pythoff and zone dose with every water change. I also do a pythoff dose every 3 days or so in between water changes. I had a crazy case of pythium caused by well water that I just couldn't get rid of, lost 2 harvest and almost a 3rd before I figured out how to make it work for me. Good luck with it