Maybe the bugs attacked the plants because its immune system was down ...and possibly due to your alkaline well water pH.

Sorry man that sucks...if it makes ya feel better, it's been a shit-ass summer grow for me this year. I chalk it all up to "experience." :)

Avid pylon forbid soup, sounds splendid

The biggest thing is pondering if they came
From nature or came
From somewhere else. As this would make it easier to think of remedies. If they infected your crop around the same time it could be the land and thus other things would work well. Now if they came into your grow via clones if imagine the person has tried getting rid f them and bred broads. Meaning they might have all the natural resistance to shit in the world. Meaning burn the fuckers to the ground

Ask @Capulator if his foliar or anything he's got can help

Need to introduce something that eats their eggs and their food source only other way is activate plants immune system and hope it can fight off the infestation....fuck :mad:

Organic methods won't work. Period. At least none I am familiar with. I preach Ogbiowar for damn near everything but the russets were not slowed down

WeedGod said:

I would go get avid pylon and forbid! Spray them bitches for two weeks rotating each. After two sprays of one pesticide these bastards are already rebirthing super broads .
I've seen mmj centers spray this crap day 30 bloom indoors lol so I wouldn't be to worried about the leftovers in the bud

Click to expand...

Your bud is poison homie. No disrespect intended just calling it like it is. Commercial mmj centers do that because they have tremendous overhead expenses that will sink the biz if they dont keep on track, shitty cleanliness practices that lead to the pests in the first place, and often times operators with loose morals who don't care about the final product or the end user because he gets paid either way. Poisoning your clientele is never ok- even if licensed distributors set the example otherwise.

Can a plants natural defense repell them like northern lights is known to do I was hoping getting them super healthy and maybe cutting out affected areas ??? Just tough to kill a whole crop like thatm....those devil bugs must be everywhere? So sorry ken:mad::confused:

He can probably save his genetics by taking cuts and using the heavy chem pesticides on those.

Hopefully someone else has experience fighting them and can give a more positive course of action than my suggestions.

It's so tuff to yank em but I've done it , whole crops equipment, complete restarts... Keep your head up ken hopefully someone chimes in

NaturalTherapy said:

Organic methods won't work. Period. At least none I am familiar with. I preach Ogbiowar for damn near everything but the russets were not slowed down


Your bud is poison homie. No disrespect intended just calling it like it is. Commercial mmj centers do that because they have tremendous overhead expenses that will sink the biz if they dont keep on track, shitty cleanliness practices that lead to the pests in the first place, and often times operators with loose morals who don't care about the final product or the end user because he gets paid either way. Poisoning your clientele is never ok- even if licensed distributors set the example otherwise.

Click to expand...

Reread my post one more time.. I said I wished I sprayed my flower room in week one. "Pics coming soon as to why"

caveman4.20 said:

Can a plants natural defense repell them like northern lights is known to do I was hoping getting them super healthy and maybe cutting out affected areas ??? Just tough to kill a whole crop like thatm....those devil bugs must be everywhere? So sorry ken:mad::confused:

Click to expand...

Plants are full of natural defense mechanisms.
Cannabinoids are actually just that.
But once a plant is swamped, it's often too late, or suggestive that it was already compromised in some other way.
It can't hurt trying to get the plants healthy...but you need to treat the mites too.
Good luck CGK, hope you can knock them off.

@WeedGod
Yeah ok I see where I missed the sarcasm. Like I said, no disrespect intended. Good vibes homie

Ken, I am truely sorry to hear about your problem. That diatomaceous powdery looks like a good place to start. Your scaring the hell out of me! I never even heard of these critters before. Keep us posted.

Generally plant defenses will keep pests at bay with the addition of soil and foliar inputs to boost those defenses- but this particular pest is rather offensive. In my first round after having russets I looked with dread at every imperfect leaf expecting them to be back. Luckily I haven't seem them since last year, after I bleached EVERYTHING and started over with all new genetics in a new lab.

Like I said it's surely possible to save your genetics, but I was lucky to have access to the same cuts from an uncontaminated source so just started over with new seeds and fresh cuts.

Damn this sucks Ken..... I seen on the news that the water is stressing the almond trees... were using the bottom of the water supply.... like the bottom of a old cars gas tank>>>>> all full of shit that will fuck up everything..

Stressed plants = Bug Attacks

Also I bet ur meter is off if the ph juice is old... I had a claw issue bcuz of a nute lock.. it looked like I had some kind of PH issue so I bought new calibration solution & sure enough my meter was reeding 5 points off.. thats y it looked like I was having a ph issue.... <<<<< at least I hope so..

Kay (1986) indicates that these mites disperse via the wind or by being carried on machinery, people, and maybe animals or insects that move in the field. These mites cannot fly.

MANAGEMENT

Non-Chemical Control

There are a few of predators that feed on the tomato russet mite, but most of them do not seem feasible for a biological control program. Bailey and Keifer (1943) observed that a predatory mite, Seiulus sp., was effective in controlling tomato russet mite on tomatoes grown in home gardens. However, this predatory mite was not effective as a commercial biological control agent.

There are other predatory mites which feed on tomato russet mite. Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt), Pronematus ubiquitis (McGregor), and Lasioseius sp. were predatory mites noted by Rice (1961). The Zambia Department of Agriculture (1977) implied that the predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis (Athias-Henriot), may have controlled tomato russet mite. De Moraes and Lima (1983) observed that Euseius concordis (Chant) will feed on tomato russet mite. They indicated that its effectiveness as a predator of the tomato russet mite would be limited by the presence of Tetranychus evansi (Baker and Pritchard). The problem is with the webbing of T. evansi. It hinders the activity of E. concordis. Another problem is the presence of tomato russet mite with T. evansi for most of the year.

There seems to be some potential for the use of Homeopronematus anconai (Baker) as a biological control agent. (Perring and Farrar, 1986). Studies indicate that this predator is effective in controlling tomato russet mite in the laboratory.

Basic crop sanitation helps in the control of the tomato russet mite (Kay, 1986). Weed hosts should be eliminated within and around the crop. Crop residues should also be destroyed. Keeping the area around the crop free of tomato russet mite hosts helps to reduce the sources of infestation.

Chemical Control

The crop should be monitored for any plant symptoms indicative of the presence of the tomato russet mite. When tomato russet mites are found, control measures should be taken early so that serious damage to the crop does not occur. Also, good pesticide spraying technique is important for complete coverage of all parts of the plant. The lower part of the stem and the undersides of the leaves should not be forgotten.

Sulfur is usually recommended for the control of mites. However, in northern Queensland, a study by Kay and Shepherd (1988) found sulfur to be ineffective. Their 7 trial study was conducted from 1982 to 1985 on tomatoes. They found that the most effective acaricides against an established infestation of tomato russet mite were dicofol (Kelthane), cyhexatin (Plictran), azocyclotin (Peropal), sulprofos (Bolstar), and monocrotophos (Azodrin). Fenbutatin oxide (Vendex) was moderately effective. Sulfur, demeten-S-methyl (Metasytox-R), dimethoate, endosulfan, methamidophos (Monitor), and propargite (Omite) were ineffective.

Kay and Shepherd (1988) also found that dicofol and cyhexatin were the most effective treatments to prevent a damaging infestation from developing. Sulprofos and monocrotophos were also effective. Sulfur was ineffective. Three-weekly or monthly applications were found to be insufficient. A weekly or fortnightly application schedule was necessary for prevention.

Royalty and Perring (1987) evaluated five acaricides on tomato russet mite and a tydeid mite predator, Homeopronematus anconai. For tomato russet mite, avermectin B1 (Avid, Agrimer) was the most toxic, followed by dicofol, cyhexatin, sulfur, and thuringiensin. For H. anconai, dicofol was the most toxic followed by avermectin B1, sulfur, cyhexatin, and thuringienson. According to their study, selective doses of Avermectin B1 could provide good control of tomato russet mite while conserving a predator of the tomato russet mite, H. anconai.

http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/Type/a_lycope.htm

Avid at 2ml per gallon sprayed with an atomizer, covering all boards/beds/netting/stalks/leaves/surrounding ground followed by Conserve sc 3 days later in the same manner.

Do your research as to what you are comfortable with but this works and as long as you don't harvest till mid to late october it shouldn't pose any known health risks...like I said do your own research

Here is a good info on Avid..
And the label for Conserve sc http://greenhouse.ucdavis.edu/pest/pmsds/Conserve.PDF

Don't think it is over yet bro. I wouldn't give up. And I am sure you won't either!

Damn, Ken...

MakinGoo said:

Damn this sucks Ken..... I seen on the news that the water is stressing the almond trees... were using the bottom of the water supply.... like the bottom of a old cars gas tank>>>>> all full of shit that will fuck up everything..

Stressed plants = Bug Attacks

Also I bet ur meter is off if the ph juice is old... I had a claw issue bcuz of a nute lock.. it looked like I had some kind of PH issue so I bought new calibration solution & sure enough my meter was reeding 5 points off.. thats y it looked like I was having a ph issue.... <<<<< at least I hope so..

Click to expand...

I've been reading that the Central Valley, the entirety of it, is subsiding because of the demands being placed on the groundwater. It's time for California to march to a different tune, no more Chinatown, it's time to regulate our groundwater supplies. Period.

Maybe russets are what i been dealing with the last year, they call them black backs around here and a lot of people are having to deal with them. Best thing I've found is spraying them everyday. I spray them with plain water, soak the underside of the leaves and wash them away. Thats in a greenhouse though, the humidity can get up about 80% after I spray and the mites seem to hate that, they just sit there and dont do anything. Havent seen one for a while but I'm sure they are still around. Forbid I've heard is the safest chemical, out of the plant in 60 days. A lot of people using floramite with success but that is supposed to linger in the plant a lot longer. I might build a new building this fall to try and start fresh.

? ? ? seen this on some garden forums for russets as foliar spray ....






http://www.missouribotanicalgarden....ces/pests-and-problems/pesticides/sulfur.aspx