Shock Going into Flowering

[isotel]

Ok, this has been happening on previous cycles, and now its hitting me harder with some New Genetics..

My Veg room is not sealed, i pull freshe air through it, Have 1 600W Light

When i Go into the Flower room, with 2 1000k's, Sealed room with CO2 and A/C i have been trying to keep them low at first, and then start to get them up to the Screen witch sits 30" or so away from the bulb within about a week. In the past i have noticed some minor yellowing throughout Flowering, but the new plants are getting hit harder, The Leafes Drooped bad, and i pulled them as far away from the lights as i could (4 feet or so), but they are not recovering, and showing brown spots aswell.

They are still on 16 hours of light BTW

Soil Growers: Answeres
1. clones
2. 2 Months old when i go to flower
3. 28-24" tall
4. 1 Gallon Smart Pots
5. Sunshine #4
6. Water every 3-4 days with De Clorinated water
7. PH 5.6-5.7
8. Advanced Nutes A&B
9. No Foliar
10. 600W MH in Veg, 2-1000k HPS in FLower
11. 12" in Veg. 30+ in Flower
12. Flower is 8'x7'
13. Flower is 75 Degrees 40 Humidity
14. Dont know the PH of the soil
15. Still have a few Fungus Gnats floating around every once and a while, They are NOT Root Aphids!
16. Been at this room for 3 years! but i switch stuff up every few grows to optimize

 

[isotel]

Some photos of the worst affected plants, i pulled them out and put them back in my veg room

 

[treebark1950]

Start reading about VPD...

Its what held me back every run...

Get that RH in the 60% range the first 3 weeks of flower and your plants will uptake nutes much better. They also could be a little overwatered...

Potentially Overwatered, low RH, and little lights to big lights are stressing them the fuk out.

My 2 cents

 

[isotel]

TreeBark, Thanks for the help!
Sorry, but what is VPD?

Im doing a Scrog BTW
I Guess one of my questions is how long should i take to introduce the plants into my screen at about 30" away from the bulbs? 1 week? 2 weeks?

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Vapor pressure deficit. Its basically balance of temps, fresh air/co2 and humidity. There is a VPD calculator somewhere. Overwatering looks like a real possibilitie and Kinda looks like a cal mag def too esp the spotting. When i had root aphids it showed first as a cal mag def then my leaves started to yellow hard and dry up. How are you certain that the fungus gnats are not RA flyers?

 

[isotel]

I have looked at the ones i catch on the sticky traps, and they are all gnats, the aphids have a different shape, ive had them in the past! lol

I had thought it could be mag too, but ive used cal mag the last round with no change, and i Litteraly just fed them with a bit Kosher Salt as i introduced them to the new room.

Im trying a foiliar spray to get them some nutes quicker, see what that does..

 

[isotel]

on the Watering, i Normally wait till the soil has shrunken in, and light as can be before i water..

 

[isotel]

How do i Delete this Thread? Can a Mod Please Delete this thread and Photos?

 

[HashZeppelin]

you need bigger pot one gallon is too small. also that is cal/mag deficiency straight up. so common on here. it could be caused by over watering and not enough feeding, or just under feeding. that is what is looks like. add calcium and magnesium.

those look pretty sativa, and in their stretch phase they always eat more.

i dont see flys do that. it still looks like cal mag. still kill the flys of course.

 

[Seamaiden]

Ok, this has been happening on previous cycles, and now its hitting me harder with some New Genetics..

My Veg room is not sealed, i pull freshe air through it, Have 1 600W Light

When i Go into the Flower room, with 2 1000k's, Sealed room with CO2 and A/C i have been trying to keep them low at first, and then start to get them up to the Screen witch sits 30" or so away from the bulb within about a week. In the past i have noticed some minor yellowing throughout Flowering, but the new plants are getting hit harder, The Leafes Drooped bad, and i pulled them as far away from the lights as i could (4 feet or so), but they are not recovering, and showing brown spots aswell.

They are still on 16 hours of light BTW

Soil Growers: Answeres
1. clones
2. 2 Months old when i go to flower
3. 28-24" tall
4. 1 Gallon Smart Pots
5. Sunshine #4
6. Water every 3-4 days with De Clorinated water
7. PH 5.6-5.7
8. Advanced Nutes A&B
9. No Foliar
10. 600W MH in Veg, 2-1000k HPS in FLower
11. 12" in Veg. 30+ in Flower
12. Flower is 8'x7'
13. Flower is 75 Degrees 40 Humidity
14. Dont know the PH of the soil
15. Still have a few Fungus Gnats floating around every once and a while, They are NOT Root Aphids!
16. Been at this room for 3 years! but i switch stuff up every few grows to optimize

K, first, Sunshine Mix is not soil, it is a soilless media. That being said, I've never worked with it, only coir, perlite, and soil.

I agree with the previous poster who says get your RH up. But, I don't think that's what is causing the spotting and interveinal chlorosis I'm seeing. That may be due to you running the pH of your feeds just a bit too high, which it is in my opinion. I think you need to drop that into the low-to-mid 5 range, not the mid-t0-upper 5s.

Do you plan on transplanting? They'll rapidly outgrow those pots once flipped. Or, they'll flip into flower on their own if left too long in them.

Why on earth are you giving them Kosher salt? Sea-90 or similar, that's chock full of minerals I can understand, Epsom salt (MgSO4), I can understand. But Kosher salt...?

I am not only not familiar with the AN line, I don't know a thing about their A&B formulations. However, what I see, if occurring on lower leaves, or mid-plant, is not a Ca issue (Ca- causes spotting and necrosis of UPPER leaves and leaf margins). I do see a possible Mg-, and that is very, very easily corrected with a foliar application of MgSO4 at the rate of 1/4tsp/gal.

At this point, I detest combination Cal-Mag products. I think they fuck people up more than anything else. Get a Ca only product, and Epsom salts, and go from there. Ca must be fed from the get-go, it's immobile and cannot be translocated, MUST be laid down in tissues, from the start and through grow via media (microbial action) or feed. Ca- can be STOPPED, but not corrected, via foliar applications. If you're a hydro-shop person, they'll probably have Calplex or something like that.

 

[HashZeppelin]

oh shit I didnt see he was using AN. ya switch nute brands. AN sucks.

 

[GR33NL3AF]

Sunshine isn't very picky with pH - I've seen people treat it in the high 5's and I personally do not touch the pH (it's usually around 6.9). Yes, it is a soilless mix but the majority of bag soils these days is 'soilless' this does not mean it cannot be treated as regular 'ol soil. The bag clearly states that there is dolomite lime already in it which tells me the manufacture's feel a close to nuetral pH is suiteable.

AN does suck...hah