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NTdavid
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I appreciate your response ! Thank youView attachment 1320789just a rookie here but the internet says mag def. i can't spell it but i think you can get it.
take it as you will until someone with more experience tells you different.
wish i could help you more but i've never heard of Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend
he cant just fortify dechlorinated tap water with calmag when no access to ro?Using tap with super soil will almost always end up with a mag problem. The reason is the buffered tap restricts the magnesium. You need more water so the plant can get what it needs. I would remove the mulch because the more water you give the plant the more magnesium the plant can get. I would cut the tap and only use RO fortified with calcium and mag. with super soil.
hi how old is you plant now, what have you been feeding with wateringHello All,
I originally was a coco grower using synthetics but 2 months ago I wanted to transition to living soil in order to widen my skill range. I'm having a difficult time with the transition and made mistakes along the way. My biggest mistake has been soil saturation. Many warned me about the dangers of over-watering in large containers, so as an over-thinker, I believe I may have taken that too literally. During the first 2 months of the growth, I watered very minimally in increments of half gallons. I mistakenly misjudged soil saturation by basing my watering consistency on observing the bottom moisture of my pot. The bottom was always wet so I minimally watered once a week. The plant soon got sick and after some research, I learned that the rootzone was most likely bone dry. Yesterday I attempted to fully saturate my 15-gallon pot with about 2.5 gallons of dechlorinated water with predator nematodes mixed in to combat fungus gnats. I have never posted a question online but I finally have accepted that I should ask for help. I'm embarrassed to ask questions but I really want to bring this girl back to life. Below i will post all the specificatrions needed to diagnose my plant. Thank you to everyone who reads this and I truly do appreciate any advice offered.
Pot Size: 15 Gallon
Pot Type: Plastic
Soil type: Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend
Lights on: 20 hours
temp: 74 f
humidity: 62-65%
Co2: 900 ppm
water type: tap dechlorinated
IPM: Pure crop 1 every 3 days and nematodes/sticky traps
watering consistency: 1/2 gallon per week
Light type: 240-watt quantum board with Samsung lm301b diodes (set at 40% dimmed)
Light Intensity: 300 PPFD
DLI: 21.6
Why would mulch mean less water for the plant?Using tap with super soil will almost always end up with a mag problem. The reason is the buffered tap restricts the magnesium. You need more water so the plant can get what it needs. I would remove the mulch because the more water you give the plant the more magnesium the plant can get. I would cut the tap and only use RO fortified with calcium and mag. with super soil.
so should people in soil start adding organic maganese?You have no potassium so the plants aren't transpiring. You have no phosphorus so your roots are small. Lower photos show -magnesium and -boron.
There's this myth that overfeeding is common in soil. Under led, detrimental underfeeding is the norm. I've tested dozens of popular fertilizers. None of them are growing healthy plants under led. All P and/or K deficient with elevated nitrogen to make up for poor N metabolism thanks largely to unavailable manganese in the poorly engineered hippy worm soils.
You'll notice tons of people dimming their Led lights with soil, because the plants can't handle the lack of pk but get more efficient with N as intensity increases. With synthetics they add bloom nutes to fix this. With soil they blame the microbes hood a ceremony out on the woods and settle for mids from what I can tell. Soil isn't overrated but the characters in the scene sure are. Every soil grower I've met has been afraid of excess PK while having burnt margins and blue leaves/purple stems (pk deficient). 15 years ago these dark plants everyone grows got called out for being low in PK. Funny how knowledge changes based on the limited capabilities of the influential characters in Cannabis. These days Coco growers have bigger roots that drink more because bottle nute companies are well aware of the shitty spectrum their customers are using. These organic nute companies base everything on a soil analysis which doesn't even correlate outdoors let alone with shit lights and undisclosed vpd. Organic bros will tell you exactly how much of this or that to use while never asking how bright your lights or what your vpd is. Imagine if food was cooked like that, ignoring the oven settings while coming up with a baking recipe.
Right that would mean mulch keeps soil wet moreMulch lowers evaporation from the surface of the soil.
we all sometimes smoke before jumping on the threadsRight that would mean mulch keeps soil wet more
Hahahaha I'm always high. I truly get it.we all sometimes smoke before jumping on the threads
I recently moved away from Peat, Vermiculite and GH's liquid nutes to Stonington Platinum Grower's mix and their dry ammendments. When you dump that bag into a 15 gallon pot, CoM says that there's enough nutes to last your plant from seedling to harvest. Their soil is loaded with bacteria, protozoans, fungi, especially an endo-mychorizal that only pairs with Cannabis specifically - not watering to keep that medium moist is the worst thing you can do IMO. I grow in a 7 gallon cloth pot and have been watering her every 3 to 4 days, NEVER longer than that. She's just finishing her 2nd week of flower and I'm watering her every 2 days now. She takes close to 6 liters during each watering. Follow CoM's feeding schedule and be sure to add their bone meal during last week of veg and twice more during flowering. Try to learn how to water to a small or slight runoff to ensure every bit of soil is getting watered. Too much runoff will strip the nutes out of your pot, so be sure to avoid that.Hello All,
I originally was a coco grower using synthetics but 2 months ago I wanted to transition to living soil in order to widen my skill range. I'm having a difficult time with the transition and made mistakes along the way. My biggest mistake has been soil saturation. Many warned me about the dangers of over-watering in large containers, so as an over-thinker, I believe I may have taken that too literally. During the first 2 months of the growth, I watered very minimally in increments of half gallons. I mistakenly misjudged soil saturation by basing my watering consistency on observing the bottom moisture of my pot. The bottom was always wet so I minimally watered once a week. The plant soon got sick and after some research, I learned that the rootzone was most likely bone dry. Yesterday I attempted to fully saturate my 15-gallon pot with about 2.5 gallons of dechlorinated water with predator nematodes mixed in to combat fungus gnats. I have never posted a question online but I finally have accepted that I should ask for help. I'm embarrassed to ask questions but I really want to bring this girl back to life. Below i will post all the specificatrions needed to diagnose my plant. Thank you to everyone who reads this and I truly do appreciate any advice offered.
Pot Size: 15 Gallon
Pot Type: Plastic
Soil type: Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend
Lights on: 20 hours
temp: 74 f
humidity: 62-65%
Co2: 900 ppm
water type: tap dechlorinated
IPM: Pure crop 1 every 3 days and nematodes/sticky traps
watering consistency: 1/2 gallon per week
Light type: 240-watt quantum board with Samsung lm301b diodes (set at 40% dimmed)
Light Intensity: 300 PPFD
DLI: 21.6
sounds like you have had very good experience with these products, worth checking outStonington Platinum Grower's mix and their dry ammendments.
FYI: during my last grow, in the summer I got a fungus gnat infestation which I terribly mishandled. Your Stonington is serving them a smorgasbord of fungi, so it may be time to get aggressive with them and I've read that Neem Cake works extremely well. Their larvae will eat your girl's roots if you don't actively get rid of them. Those sticky traps won't do it.Hello All,
I originally was a coco grower using synthetics but 2 months ago I wanted to transition to living soil in order to widen my skill range. I'm having a difficult time with the transition and made mistakes along the way. My biggest mistake has been soil saturation. Many warned me about the dangers of over-watering in large containers, so as an over-thinker, I believe I may have taken that too literally. During the first 2 months of the growth, I watered very minimally in increments of half gallons. I mistakenly misjudged soil saturation by basing my watering consistency on observing the bottom moisture of my pot. The bottom was always wet so I minimally watered once a week. The plant soon got sick and after some research, I learned that the rootzone was most likely bone dry. Yesterday I attempted to fully saturate my 15-gallon pot with about 2.5 gallons of dechlorinated water with predator nematodes mixed in to combat fungus gnats. I have never posted a question online but I finally have accepted that I should ask for help. I'm embarrassed to ask questions but I really want to bring this girl back to life. Below i will post all the specificatrions needed to diagnose my plant. Thank you to everyone who reads this and I truly do appreciate any advice offered.
Pot Size: 15 Gallon
Pot Type: Plastic
Soil type: Coast Of Maine Stonington Blend
Lights on: 20 hours
temp: 74 f
humidity: 62-65%
Co2: 900 ppm
water type: tap dechlorinated
IPM: Pure crop 1 every 3 days and nematodes/sticky traps
watering consistency: 1/2 gallon per week
Light type: 240-watt quantum board with Samsung lm301b diodes (set at 40% dimmed)
Light Intensity: 300 PPFD
DLI: 21.6
sticky traps serve to identify pestsThose sticky traps won't do it.
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