D
donkitrk99
- 18
- 1
You can winterize with Iso, but ethanol or methanol work better, because they have a higher dielectric constant.Thanks a million.
It's actually 99% isopropyl that I can purchase locally. Is that a sufficient product?
When you say "filtering out the waxes" after it comes out of the freezer is that another hot water bath? Or another trip through a coffee filter?
Ok. Thanks again. I have just a couple more questions.
How much alcohol do I use?
Does it need to be heated and, if so, what is a safe method?
Is there a second hot water bath or does the alcohol evaporate in the freezer?
Winterizing a non polar extraction like BHO with a polar solvent like Iso or EtOH, is done to remove the plant waxes and turn it into an Absolute.I have people telling me that bho cannot be improved upon with this "iso wash". What is the goal of this extra step?
Winterizing a non polar extraction like BHO with a polar solvent like Iso or EtOH, is done to remove the plant waxes and turn it into an Absolute.
In a post of yours I read a while back you mention two undesirables that impact the color of the concentrate, chlorophyll and _____? The other one escapes me, I've also read that you can diminish the visual impact of chlorophyll using 662nm deep red uv light - is this correct and is there an equivalent tactic for removing the other color impacting undesirable?
Also I've recently switched from open blasting to a closed loop system designed from scratch, and have heard varying opinion on the micron size of the filters in the system. The recommendations range from 150 micron down to 50 micron, but with 75 I'm still seeing lipids and other undesirables and when I was open blasting I was using two layers of unbleached or bamboo coffee filters, held in by a 50 micron metal mesh screen. I understand the coffee filters to be ~10micron and had very few lipids with many batches/strains coming out with no lipids. Was the filter fine enough to catch said lipids? What micron size do you use in your systems? Can any screen exclude lipids from the final product to the point where polishing/winterizing is unnecessary to produce an absolute in "shatter" form?
Anthro cyanin plant pigments.
You can degrade some chlorophyll using strong UV light, like the sun to break down the chlorophyll and turn a light green to amber, but doesn't work for dark green.
I use multiple ~20 micron coffee filters wadded up and packed, supported by a 150 mesh screen.
The lipids are in solution, so you would first have to lower the temperature of the solution enough for the lipids to precipitate out, before filtering them for removal.
If you extract with -30C or so butane to start with, it will pick up very few lipids and waxes, because of their lower solubility as a Triterpene sized molecule.
Can you link me to any methods you use to remove the anthro cyanin plant pigments and large quantities of chlorophyll from existing extracts?
I can get my actual extraction column(and plant matter) well below -37c(which is the lowest my temp gun reads) but the lowest I can get my actual butane is -28c due to the constraints of the freezer, would the column and plant matter being so cold compensate to the 2 degrees colder I need my butane?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?