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Stumpy's House

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Stumpy's House

Stumpy420 Jun 14, 2016 589 Replies 46,430 Views
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Stumpy420

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#421
Alright so today I got gypsum. I watered in 1 tsp mixed in 1 gallon of water and kinda flooded/flushed them to make sure that first tsp works. I will water 1 tsp into them every other watering until they start showing improvement. Hoping to see them start praying and the leaves flatten out.
 
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Stumpy420

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#422
Will be doing the plants in flower the next time they need water. They need it too..
 
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#423
Stumpy420 said:
What that dwc plant is using right now is literally just 6ml/gallon of soul synthetics grow and infinity. No micro nutes past calcium, magnesium, and iron are listed. I do have some general hydroponics micro, but I don't know if mixing that would mess it up.
Click to expand...
is there any P in it? I assume yes in the SS nutes, the GH i mean? ideally I would avoid any P/ K inputs, where you include any cal mag as a drench, I suspect you might do this anyway. I might foliar feed the CalMag/ Fe, esp if i can access chealtes, so aminos plus Fe for example and. otherwise a humic acid might help you chelate any micros eg the Iron, Calcium, magnesium and prevent these binding with any excess P in the media.
A good quality humic will include a sulfate or two, usually K and Ca but typically a many more positive growth/health elements such as Sulfur :-) I find these organic acids and sulfates better than any carbonates for liming, so gypsum will give you the Ca, but you may find Calcified Seaweed and Humic Acid gives a better overall delivery since humic and seaweed gives you a wider micro range and maintains a more friable soil texture, certainly than garden (carbonate) lime.
Silicon is also fairly useful where we have had stress, again a good quality humic will contain this in sufficient plant soluble state.
In tests we conducted, we found Silicon to play a pivotal role in regulating the internal pH of plant sap, which itself helps our plants use nutrients more efficiently, reduces stress factors, and certainly helps prevent PM :-)
CEC gives room to store those Hydrogen ions, humic acid will help reduce the negative impacts of hydrogen ions in and around the root zone
 
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#424
Stumpy420 said:
Alright so today I got gypsum. I watered in 1 tsp mixed in 1 gallon of water and kinda flooded/flushed them to make sure that first tsp works. I will water 1 tsp into them every other watering until they start showing improvement. Hoping to see them start praying and the leaves flatten out.
Click to expand...
you should not need to continually add it, 35g per 1m2 should be enough once a year mate.
 
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#425
Stumpy420 said:
Spread her out again!View attachment 643303

No deficiencies, drinking like she's in the beerfest! Half gallon in 2 days!
Click to expand...
what pH are you feeding the soil plants, try to up it to 6.5-6.7, see how you get on if you aint already doing this
 
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#426
Stumpy420 said:
Dry as a bone, still "overwatered!" Damn lime. Getting gypsum today, one way or another.View attachment 643986
TToday I noticed the stems are thicker, but the plants are not really growing up top. I can almost pitch a couple of these plants in cups in favor of newly rooted clones, but I refuse to put another girl through this torture.

Otoh... d-bag 1 clone 2 is looking good besides this one leaf..View attachment 643987 View attachment 643987 View attachment 643987 probably from her drinking a quarter gallon of water a day and not keeping her res topped off. Might be needing that bottle of amino aide but can't afford it.
Click to expand...
lime is a salt, over time its continued use causes a compaction layer of Cation rich salts, typically a white chalky type of seam appears in fields where lime is used to buffer pH and plant roots dont like it. Liming makes soil systems worse not better, it is a lack of understanding of soil and chemistry alongside a disruption in biology. It is a salt, adding salts will build up and cause the soil systems to collapse
 
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#427
Stumpy420 said:
Dry as a bone, still "overwatered!" Damn lime. Getting gypsum today, one way or another.View attachment 643986
TToday I noticed the stems are thicker, but the plants are not really growing up top. I can almost pitch a couple of these plants in cups in favor of newly rooted clones, but I refuse to put another girl through this torture.

Otoh... d-bag 1 clone 2 is looking good besides this one leaf..View attachment 643987 View attachment 643987 View attachment 643987 probably from her drinking a quarter gallon of water a day and not keeping her res topped off. Might be needing that bottle of amino aide but can't afford it.
Click to expand...
may be a mild Mn def
 
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#428
Ecompost said:
may be a mild Mn def
Click to expand...
The main problem with the soil right now is it is compacted from lime (Mg). So I have to add in the gypsum to get some better tilth and loosen it up. Also I'm sure my Ca:Mg is way out from adding the lime to raise the ph. Really those two length plants are gonna get tossed in the trash in favor of newly rooted clones. They need transplanted but they need transplanted into good soil not this compaction, lime messed up, soil.

The GH micro has no P in it. It's 5-0-1. If you think the SS line has the micro's they need I won't add any. I am literally just using the grow and infinity bottles (nothing else) and she is growing just fine. Nice even shade of green all over. Another week or two and she will be ready for the flip. Then the challenge of making room in the tent comes into play. Looking to have a good Christmas and new years.
 
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Stumpy420

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#429
Just as I suspected, the clones were transpiring their water and focusing on that rather than rooting. By the 1st day of being covered 1 plant had roots. This is day 3, 2 clones have roots and the first one looks like this.and I am cloning like this except under a 15w 1ft fluorescent.
 
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#430
Stumpy420 said:
The main problem with the soil right now is it is compacted from lime (Mg). So I have to add in the gypsum to get some better tilth and loosen it up. Also I'm sure my Ca:Mg is way out from adding the lime to raise the ph. Really those two length plants are gonna get tossed in the trash in favor of newly rooted clones. They need transplanted but they need transplanted into good soil not this compaction, lime messed up, soil.

The GH micro has no P in it. It's 5-0-1. If you think the SS line has the micro's they need I won't add any. I am literally just using the grow and infinity bottles (nothing else) and she is growing just fine. Nice even shade of green all over. Another week or two and she will be ready for the flip. Then the challenge of making room in the tent comes into play. Looking to have a good Christmas and new years.
Click to expand...
yeah to be fair, the dwc one looks a nice tone, any micros you might just add as a top up, so a tiny amount 1ml/L max fed in once where you skip a grow feed, or lighten it and add this after half an hour on its own. Sometimes a foliar of micros is a good way to address any shortfall, this works in veg of course and up to a point in bloom.
Might be worth just skipping an SS grow feed and using the GH mix instead to be sure you got the trace, this shouldnt cause any issues as I see it.
heres a little bit to help you get your head around possible clashes when combining products
http://www.canna-uk.com/interactions_between_nutrients
 
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#431
Stumpy420 said:
Just as I suspected, the clones were transpiring their water and focusing on that rather than rooting. By the 1st day of being covered 1 plant had roots. This is day 3, 2 clones have roots and the first one looks like this.View attachment 644063and I am cloning like this except under a 15w 1ft fluorescent.View attachment 644064
Click to expand...
Nano Breathe helps to regulate the stomata and so prevent water loss via transpiration on cuttings, either spray the mother, or the cuttings, et voila, nice and turgid clones with a better survival rate. Nano particles in breathe can enter the plant using all three water transport systems :-) so we can boost food sources to cuts with no roots, ergo that have a better chance of survival and it takes less work to prep a mother ahead of cutting :-)
 
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Srenots

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#432
Stumpy420 said:
View attachment 643652 I had to turn the plant around 180 to put the bare side under the new little led my f-i-l bought me. It obviously works. The side that was under it is way more bushed out. Can you see the bare spot closers and to the right?
Click to expand...
180 turns are awesome technique daily....hope u get it figured out bro
 
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Stumpy420

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#433
Srenots said:
180 turns are awesome technique daily....hope u get it figured out bro
Click to expand...
Yeah I pulled her out and was like, "well damn, that little led light did somethin!" Turned her around and put it under the light. It's gonna take a week or so still before the growth catches up. I got all three lamps directed at that half of the plant now.

So the only thing I'm not liking about soul synthetics is the muck it leaves on my roots, and that muck dries up on the roots in the inch or two from the net pot to the top of the water. I may need to replace the 1 tiny air bubbler I'm using for the larger bubbler manifold I made. I think that is what this is from..
 
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#434
Stumpy420 said:
Yeah I pulled her out and was like, "well damn, that little led light did somethin!" Turned her around and put it under the light. It's gonna take a week or so still before the growth catches up. I got all three lamps directed at that half of the plant now.

So the only thing I'm not liking about soul synthetics is the muck it leaves on my roots, and that muck dries up on the roots in the inch or two from the net pot to the top of the water. I may need to replace the 1 tiny air bubbler I'm using for the larger bubbler manifold I made. View attachment 644189I think that is what this is from..View attachment 644190 View attachment 644191
Click to expand...
yeah, that is a gunk fest in there bro, so long as the light aint getting down there and O2 rates stay above 6ppms. It may of course hinder the Oxygen uptake plant side and may overtime cause some issues depending on the saturation of cations on, in and around it. Certainly puts paid to the myth that EDTA reduces Biofilm imo so its interesting to me to see this pic mate thanks. Whats also interesting to me, we have found Algae forms (not unlike the brown film around the root structure, which themselves have a mutualistic relationship with a type of sidephore bacteria, and that these mutualists had 10-20 times the capacity to chelate Iron beyond free rangers such as bacillus subtilus. Traditionally this is marine work, but never the less it was interesting to me to see if we might capture some of the marinobacter for water specific operations, eg DWC :-)
Perhaps using a root enzyme like Hygrozyme or Cannazyme might help reduce the impacts of all those organics.

What perplexes me about the range, and this is no comment on its performance overall since I have no exposure so cant comment beyond observation, is why they went to all that bother with organics, only to add a bunch of synthetics and cheap chelates, when it is possible to acquire bacterial chelates which would have kept the range organic?
To me its two or more products in one, certainly the grow blend. For example, it offers sevewral bio stims, while simultaneously disrupting this model via syntheic inputs of direct NPK. It would appear if used too soon a possible mycorrhizal relationship disruptor, by inserting too much direct P as a plant nutrient. All the things will happen, but the magic i suspect will be lost and so the bio stims just puzzle me. Its like a new buzz word, so chuck it in..

http://journal.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fpls.2013.00426/full

I think it needs to decide, is it an organic system, or is it a synthetic system, if it wants to be a hybrid, then separate out the bio stims from the plant feeds. Might make a reasonable tea tho where you give it time to blend and the microbes to work through the synths.
 
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Stumpy420

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Nov 7, 2016
#435
not looking too shitty in flower, for looking like crap in veg.
The plants in the tent were tip dressed with 1-2 tsp of aurora uprising bloom at the day of flip. I figured by the time it is fully watered in they should be flowering and the plant above liked it. So we will see around beginning of december how things are going. I'm heading down to water in 1 tsp gypsum/gallon of tap today. Might slightly overwatered 1 or two of them but I want it all done at the same time.
 
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#436
Stumpy420 said:
View attachment 644362 View attachment 644363 not looking too shitty in flower, for looking like crap in veg.View attachment 644364
The plants in the tent were tip dressed with 1-2 tsp of aurora uprising bloom at the day of flip. I figured by the time it is fully watered in they should be flowering and the plant above liked it. So we will see around beginning of december how things are going. I'm heading down to water in 1 tsp gypsum/gallon of tap today. Might slightly overwatered 1 or two of them but I want it all done at the same time.
Click to expand...
you got any epsom salts? just foliar them, dont worry about the mold they are too early to worry about a bit of water, just spray at night, make sure they are dry come lights on. Warm the media up if you can, run an air line in to the soil to help. Keep the pump up tho so it aint scooping CO2 off the floor
 
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#437
added, your pH is likely high too, if its staying wet this is a sure sign. Since you are adding stuff, you might want to keep a tsp of Sulfur Flowers in pocket to help take the number down so you have time to harvest this plant buddy. The gypsum will take the pH down a bit, may be an iron sulfate too over epsom, i wouldnt normally recommend all this, but its too late to fix this otherwise imo and you already got synths in the system.
 
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Stumpy420

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#438
Ecompost said:
added, your pH is likely high too, if its staying wet this is a sure sign. Since you are adding stuff, you might want to keep a tsp of Sulfur Flowers in pocket to help take the number down so you have time to harvest this plant buddy. The gypsum will take the pH down a bit, may be an iron sulfate too over epsom, i wouldnt normally recommend all this, but its too late to fix this otherwise imo and you already got synths in the system.
Click to expand...
The ph is close to 7, or 7 from the lime, I'd rather have it at 7 then 5, at least in flower. I'm using gypsum to loosen up the soil. I will top dress with the uprising bloom again halfway through or about a week after stretch. I don't have all that other stuff.
I did transplant one last night and tested the run-off and it was about 4.6-5.2. Without using lime how do I bring that ph up? They do fine in it in veg, then after stretch they become ph locked out and don't get the P or K they need to flower so they eat it out of their leaves. I think this is my last round flowering in soil though, because of this. I'm still having great success in dwc so I think that will be the way to go for me. The only thing I have to do better of is keeping her topped off. I think that is why I have some spots on her. Other than that she is growing "like a weed" still.

I saved the fire-berry kush original top/meristem. Finally got new roots hanging out of the net pot after the transplant. Hope to see some real vegetative growth soon. I've been worried about losing get her. The last clone I took from her failed. So took some extensive measures to save her. Particularly it is nice to have THE TOP of such an awesome plant. I can smash people's words of genetic drift. I believe genetic drift is a myth, just poor care taken of plants.
 
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#439
should I top the two tallest shoots or tie-down like the rest. Here is a better picture from above. I was thinkin maybe just tie down,
She is definitely ready for her nute change tomorrow. Noticing some small stuff too like this.
Still healthy though for the most part. I think I'm ready to flower her.
 
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#440
Should I pick off these buds around the bottom to help revert back to veg?
 
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Replies 589
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Started Jun 14, 2016
Latest post Jan 25, 2018
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