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Stumpy's House

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Stumpy's House

Stumpy420 Jun 14, 2016 589 Replies 46,439 Views
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Stumpy420

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#501
does anyone else have trouble with kush's going into flower on 24 hours light? this bitch just wants to flower... she is in a two liter bottle right now... I need her full veg so I can clone her... ffof soil and water for is all I give her. I'm thinking I need to plant her into something bigger cause it could potentially be caused by roots not having much space.
 

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Stumpy420

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#502
so I'm trying to push her out and get her bigger but she has slowly ate her leaves since the stretch. I flowered in fox farms ocean forest hoping I would keep healthier leaves longer throughout but this happens in soil for some reason. I just recently made a gallon of soul synthetics bloom at just 5 ml a gallon, but it didn't slow down THIS...is THIS senescence, @rmoltis ? I give them tap water, sometimes right out of the faucet. I think we have mediocre tap water, but the run-off trays turn yellowish white, I think from calcium or calcium carbonate?
ANY ADVICE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
 
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rmoltis

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#503
Stumpy420 said:
so I'm trying to push her out and get her bigger but she has slowly ate her leaves since the stretch. I flowered in fox farms ocean forest hoping I would keep healthier leaves longer throughout but this happens in soil for some reason. I just recently made a gallon of soul synthetics bloom at just 5 ml a gallon, but it didn't slow down THIS...View attachment 702637is THIS senescence, @rmoltis ? I give them tap water, sometimes right out of the faucet. I think we have mediocre tap water, but the run-off trays turn yellowish white, I think from calcium or calcium carbonate?
ANY ADVICE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Click to expand...

Need more info.

How many weeks of flower?
Are all the pistils red or brown?
Are the trichomes mostly cloudy?
Rated flowering period?

It looks like it is either starving or overfed.
 
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rmoltis

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#504
rmoltis said:
Need more info.

How many weeks of flower?
Are all the pistils red or brown?
Are the trichomes mostly cloudy?


It looks like it is either starving or overfed.
Click to expand...

If the flowering period is long those drying Browning leaves could very well be senescence. But if it is early on maybe not
 
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Stumpy420

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#505
I started flowering the late march, so we are only like 8 or 9 weeks in, have no info on the strain but it was a seed I found in a qp of "master kush". haven't fed her anything but water, only nutrients came from ffof soil I planted her in 2 weeks before flower. until just this past week when I fed her a small amount of bloom nutrients.
 
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rmoltis

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#506
Stumpy420 said:
I started flowering the late march, so we are only like 8 or 9 weeks in, have no info on the strain but it was a seed I found in a qp of "master kush". haven't fed her anything but water, only nutrients came from ffof soil I planted her in 2 weeks before flower. until just this past week when I fed her a small amount of bloom nutrients.
Click to expand...

Can you see what the trichomes look like?
 
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Srenots

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#507
Stumpy420 said:
I started flowering the late march, so we are only like 8 or 9 weeks in, have no info on the strain but it was a seed I found in a qp of "master kush". haven't fed her anything but water, only nutrients came from ffof soil I planted her in 2 weeks before flower. until just this past week when I fed her a small amount of bloom nutrients.
Click to expand...
should be done soon bro...props
 
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Stumpy420

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Jul 27, 2017
#508
Dan you calcium carbonate toxicity from tap water! tap water is 157 ppms, rainwater is 12 ppms. rain water is neutral ph. tap water is basic ph.
 
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Stumpy420

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#509
metabolic processes took a plunge from it..
 

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LocalGrowGuy

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#510
Stumpy420 said:
Dan you calcium carbonate toxicity from tap water! tap water is 157 ppms, rainwater is 12 ppms. rain water is neutral ph. tap water is basic ph.
Click to expand...
Are you using muni water? If so, do you allow time for the chlorine to offgas? Although some don't think it goes away -
In water solution, at near neutral or higher pH levels (> 6.0 pH) and with typical sanitizing levels of free chlorine ( < 10 ppm), chlorine will NOT “off-gas” but will remain in solution until

  1. the chlorine is destroyed in a redox reaction with debris or gook in the water, OR
  2. it is chemically removed in a deliberate reaction with hydrogen peroxide, sodium thiosulfate, etc, OR
  3. it is removed via photolysis by sunlight or another UV source.
Chloramines, which may be present alone or together with free chlorine, represent a more complex issue. As a practical matter, most dechlor agents contain sodium thiosulfate which will remove BOTH free chlorine and the most common chloramines.

I’m not sure what you want to know, but you can verify the absence of BOTH chlorine and oxidizing chloramines by testing with OTO (orthotolidine) kits, available anywhere pool chemicals are sold. Just be sure to let the solution stand for 10 minutes after adding OTO, since it can take that long for the OTO to react with some chloramines.

From the interwebs:
  1. Use a complete fertilizer that is appropriate for your water type
Most packaged fertilizers carry on the label a guaranteed analysis of the elements inside. The most important of these are the N-P-K levels. N-P-K stands for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the three macro elements that plants need to grow.

In addition to these macro elements are a group of lower concentration elements referred to as micro elements. These include calcium and magnesium, and in smaller amounts iron, copper, boron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.

A complete fertilizer will contain all of these elements in ratios that are appropriate for growing plants. There are formulations made for growing fruits and vegetables that closely match the requirements of marijuana. These are absolutely fine for your garden.

In many parts of Colorado, home gardeners are using city or municipal water sources. Municipal water is treated to lower the calcium and magnesium content and to remove trace elements like iron.

This treatment makes the water taste better and makes it more useful for things like bathing and laundering clothes. Unfortunately for gardeners this means that there is less of these essential elements to feed the plants.

If you are on municipal water that is low in calcium and magnesium you will need to supply these to your plants via your fertilizer choices.

More-
http://www.centennialseeds.com/2013/08/21/peters-15-5-15-cal-mag-special-water-soluble-fertilizer/
 
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Stumpy420

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#511
we have city water. I did let the water sit out AT LEAST 24 hours to let the chlorine go away. but if you look at my trays under my pots, they have build up of calcium carbonate and others I believe see look at this
LocalGrowGuy said:
Are you using muni water? If so, do you allow time for the chlorine to offgas? Although some don't think it goes away -
In water solution, at near neutral or higher pH levels (> 6.0 pH) and with typical sanitizing levels of free chlorine ( < 10 ppm), chlorine will NOT “off-gas” but will remain in solution until

  1. the chlorine is destroyed in a redox reaction with debris or gook in the water, OR
  2. it is chemically removed in a deliberate reaction with hydrogen peroxide, sodium thiosulfate, etc, OR
  3. it is removed via photolysis by sunlight or another UV source.
Chloramines, which may be present alone or together with free chlorine, represent a more complex issue. As a practical matter, most dechlor agents contain sodium thiosulfate which will remove BOTH free chlorine and the most common chloramines.

I’m not sure what you want to know, but you can verify the absence of BOTH chlorine and oxidizing chloramines by testing with OTO (orthotolidine) kits, available anywhere pool chemicals are sold. Just be sure to let the solution stand for 10 minutes after adding OTO, since it can take that long for the OTO to react with some chloramines.

From the interwebs:
  1. Use a complete fertilizer that is appropriate for your water type
Most packaged fertilizers carry on the label a guaranteed analysis of the elements inside. The most important of these are the N-P-K levels. N-P-K stands for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the three macro elements that plants need to grow.

In addition to these macro elements are a group of lower concentration elements referred to as micro elements. These include calcium and magnesium, and in smaller amounts iron, copper, boron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.

A complete fertilizer will contain all of these elements in ratios that are appropriate for growing plants. There are formulations made for growing fruits and vegetables that closely match the requirements of marijuana. These are absolutely fine for your garden.
Click to expand...
 

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LocalGrowGuy

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#512
Check out the link in the last line of my last post. Ben up at Centennial did a bunch of work with soluble fertilizers and how they work with muni water supplies. It might be a solution but it's not 'how you fix this toxicity'.

I get buildup like that when I use salt fertilizers. Do you mind sharing what you use? Also keep in mind I just saw your single post, I haven't gone through this thread. If I need to please tell me to read up and catch up.
 
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Stumpy420

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#513
LocalGrowGuy said:
Check out the link in the last line of my last post. Ben up at Centennial did a bunch of work with soluble fertilizers and how they work with muni water supplies. It might be a solution but it's not 'how you fix this toxicity'.

I get buildup like that when I use salt fertilizers. Do you mind sharing what you use? Also keep in mind I just saw your single post, I haven't gone through this thread. If I need to please tell me to read up and catch up.
Click to expand...
I'm using fox farm oceanforest soil and water and when they started looking light I fed with soul synthetics at the small doses, 5 ml of the grow and 5 ml of the calcium stuff, it was AT LEAST 6 weeks before I started feeding, but when I fed them they didn't get better, just continued on a bad path. the rain water I collected off of the roof I'd cleaner so I have "flushed" them out twice and the next time they need water I'm gonna try and add the soul synthetics and hope for the best. I just need two weeks of good veg growth and I will be happy to go into flower. it's just not a good time to do it with them being sick. the one stopped taking up water as much and even after letting the pot dry out good I can't get her flattened out and reaching like they should. the two that look burnt of or hungry just keep getting worse and the one in front to the left is taking it on the chin like a champ
 
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LocalGrowGuy

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Jul 28, 2017
#514
Stumpy420 said:
post
Click to expand...
Do you use a ph meter? Is there a possibility of contaminated runoff from the roof? Do you know your soil pH, or do you measure ppm's when you feed or at runoff? Are you sure your root zone is dry when you water? A lot of my non-pot plants look the same when overfed versus underfed or watered.
 
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Ecompost

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#515
Stumpy420 said:
Dan you calcium carbonate toxicity from tap water! tap water is 157 ppms, rainwater is 12 ppms. rain water is neutral ph. tap water is basic ph.
Click to expand...
"If, as seems reasonable, the average annual amount of water applied in
irrigation in the Western US is equivalent to 3 feet covering the area cultivated,
about 120 million acre-feet of water is applied annually to some 40 million
acres of land. Roughly 90 million acre-feet of the total volume is lost by
evapo-transpiration. The remaining 30 million acre-feet holds essentially all the
original salts: a four-fold concentration." - Arthur Pillsbury, Professor of Engineering and (until he retired) Director of the Water Resources Centre at the University of California, Los Angeles
 
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Ecompost

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#516
Stumpy420 said:
metabolic processes took a plunge from it..
Click to expand...
perhaps it is environmental as in RH% versus Heat versus CO2? Excessive evapotranspiration where input salts are exceeding the loss of salts from the system via flushing. That rain water will help relieve your plants on ion build up in the leaves. Your indoor so you cant sadly blame the local dam and rising water table. 157ppms is very very low and soft water anyway. Anything under 200 is soft water.
Swigning pH will allow you to break carbonate bonds which are actually pretty weak in comparison to say shifting N2, adding acetic acid via white wine vinegar at 8ml/gallon will have the same effect. perhaps adding more humate eg humic acid will also help you, as will growing with mycos which release organic acids well staged to break carbonate or phosphate based bonds. Conversely, adding more gypsum might be the answer for you. if Na2 is suspected, and only a soil tests/ water test will prove this, then you can use excess calcium from gypsum, which is readily available and doesnt swing pH, to kick off Na2 ions from the soil particles, so freeing up the soil structure and allowing more Oxygen to the roots.
High water temps also mean less DO2 so check you dont have excess water temps before feeding. base min is 7ppms if you ask me, under 6ppms and it all gonna go wrong
 
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CharmCity915

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#517
@Stumpy420 how you doing brother, been a long time. I'm back to stick around for a bit and here are a few pics of a bit of what I got going at the moment
 

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Ecompost

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#518
CharmCity915 said:
@Stumpy420 how you doing brother, been a long time. I'm back to stick around for a bit and here are a few pics of a bit of what I got going at the moment
Click to expand...
awesome work
 
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Stumpy420

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#519
well since I started using rainwater, feeding (with bottled nutes, aurora innovations soul grow, infinity, and bloom), and flipped lights to 12/12, everything is looking WAAAAY better. I even have a canopy that almost covers my tent area! I think I just need to get with the feeding already. seems to be I am thinking this soil lasts forever even though my dumb ass read it doesn't. I'll post green pics at lights out after the eclipse.
 
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Stumpy420

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#520
this is what my compost looks like..do I stir this up or let it go?
 
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Replies 589
Views 46,439
Started Jun 14, 2016
Latest post Jan 25, 2018
Starter Stumpy420
Forum Smokers Lounge

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